AMSOIL Synthetic Manual Transmission and Transaxle Gear Lube (MTG) is a premium blend of the finest synthetic base oils and advanced, high-performance additives. It is formulated specifically for maximum protection in the most demanding manual transmission and transaxle applications where an extreme pressure GL-4 gear lube is specified, including those where high horsepower/high torque engines and towing or heavy loads increase transmission stress.
AMSOIL MTG prevents the thinning effects of mechanical shear. It maintains its viscosity and superior film strength for consistent, long-lasting wear protection. MTG excels in hot and cold temperature extremes that exceed the limits of conventional mineral oils. It protects against rust, keeps seals soft for long life, and is compatible with brass synchros for smooth synchromesh shift quality.
Ideal for NV-4500 Transmissions
MTG is a thermally stable, extreme pressure formulation that resists heat, oxidation, acid build-up and varnish. It is the ideal gear lube for high temperature applications, including the New Venture NV-4500 transmission, which retains heat due to its cast iron housing and is often subjected to heavy loads and high torque from turbo-diesel engines.
AMSOIL MTG is the replacement fluid for GM part #12346190 and Chrysler part #4874459 (Chrysler specification #MS-9070).
Ideal for Muscle Car Transmissions
The extreme pressure design of MTG reduces friction, heat and wear. It withstands the high horsepower and quick shifts common to muscle cars equipped with large displacement engines.
Ideal for Front Wheel Drive Transaxles
The advanced synthetic formulation provides ultimate protection for gears and bearings in front wheel drive transaxles.
Excellent for Service Centers
MTG is a versatile transmission and transaxle lubricant. It reduces inventory needs, is readily available and is cost effective compared to vehicle manufacturer branded products.
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Sunday, March 21, 2010
2010 Toyota Prius PHEV Conversion Kit User Manual
The Plug-in Hybrid Electric Vehicle Conversion Kit (PHEV) is a rechargeable battery set that is supplementary to a Hybrid vehicle battery. It supplies electricity stored in the supplementary battery, which is charged from an AC wall socket, which provides for 20 to 40 mile of electrically assisted driving per charge, sufficient for most normal daily commutes. It is safe, reliable, saves and is user and environmentally friendly.
Attention
1. Please read instructions before installation.
2. Never connect wires improperly.
3. New batteries should be re-charged to full and balanced before use.
4. Please check the batteries' voltage and balance regularly for the first few times you drive the vehicle.
5. To extend battery life, equipment must be recharged, using the 110VAC household electricity powered charger provided, to full each time and the cells need to be fully balanced after charging.
6. The circuit breaker in the enclosure box is set to be switched off automatically if the current exceeds a pre-set limit
(100A). In the event this breaker switches off you will then need to manually switch it back on before use.
7. Please switch the equipment off immediately if a defect is found while driving.
8. Please do not disassemble the components if the equipment is working normally
What is Included in this Product
◆ 16 / 32 cells for 2KWH / 4KWH, Lithium-Ion batteries
◆ Battery balancers—one for every 8 cells, monitoring and balancing battery voltages to avoid over or under charges to individual cells. This can extend battery life by a factor of 3.
◆ 48V / 15A high power charger
◆ 3000W DC / DC Converter and Controller
◆ Fire extinguisher for protecting when the temperature is over 105℃—First of all, please open the cover and take out the blue insulative inserter to let it work.
◆ Automatic DC circuit breaker—to disconnect high voltage equipment operation in the event of a high current fault.
◆ Easily installed enclosure, simple to use system.
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Attention
1. Please read instructions before installation.
2. Never connect wires improperly.
3. New batteries should be re-charged to full and balanced before use.
4. Please check the batteries' voltage and balance regularly for the first few times you drive the vehicle.
5. To extend battery life, equipment must be recharged, using the 110VAC household electricity powered charger provided, to full each time and the cells need to be fully balanced after charging.
6. The circuit breaker in the enclosure box is set to be switched off automatically if the current exceeds a pre-set limit
(100A). In the event this breaker switches off you will then need to manually switch it back on before use.
7. Please switch the equipment off immediately if a defect is found while driving.
8. Please do not disassemble the components if the equipment is working normally
What is Included in this Product
◆ 16 / 32 cells for 2KWH / 4KWH, Lithium-Ion batteries
◆ Battery balancers—one for every 8 cells, monitoring and balancing battery voltages to avoid over or under charges to individual cells. This can extend battery life by a factor of 3.
◆ 48V / 15A high power charger
◆ 3000W DC / DC Converter and Controller
◆ Fire extinguisher for protecting when the temperature is over 105℃—First of all, please open the cover and take out the blue insulative inserter to let it work.
◆ Automatic DC circuit breaker—to disconnect high voltage equipment operation in the event of a high current fault.
◆ Easily installed enclosure, simple to use system.
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Friday, March 19, 2010
TPMS Sensor Service Guidelines
This document outlines the guidelines for the manual mounting on the rim of EnTire/TRW fixed angle TPM sensors.
This document does not cover any other TPM sensors.
- Sensor & valve components
- Step 1 Start fitting the valve unit on the rim
- Step 2 Tighten the nut
- Step 3 Check the assembly sensor – valve – rim
Step 1 : Start fitting the sensor - valve unit on the rim
• Slide the sensor-valve unit through the valve hole of the rim.
• Hold the sensor against the rim and the rubber grommet against the sealing surface.
• Insert the washer then the nut over the valve stem.
• Start tightening the nut using a 12 mm deep socket.
Step 2 : Tighten the nut
• Continue to tighten the nut until contact with the rim and then tighten to the final torque. The recommended torque setting is 4.0 Nm (35 lbf.in). For example, this allows the final torque to be between 3.5 to 4.5 Nm if a +/- 12 % tolerance torque wrench is used. (Note : it is recommended to use a class B tool but a class C tool is acceptable)
• The standard recommended torque range is given by the ETRTO, TRA… for a rubber corner joint valve.
Important : Tighten slowly with quarter turn steps until the final torque is reached.
Check that the sensor is firmly attached to the rim at the valve hole interface. Final positioning of the sensor feet is dependent on the wheel dimensions and may not be uniform. Possibilities are neither foot, one foot or both feet may contact the wheel drop center.
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This document does not cover any other TPM sensors.
- Sensor & valve components
- Step 1 Start fitting the valve unit on the rim
- Step 2 Tighten the nut
- Step 3 Check the assembly sensor – valve – rim
Step 1 : Start fitting the sensor - valve unit on the rim
• Slide the sensor-valve unit through the valve hole of the rim.
• Hold the sensor against the rim and the rubber grommet against the sealing surface.
• Insert the washer then the nut over the valve stem.
• Start tightening the nut using a 12 mm deep socket.
Step 2 : Tighten the nut
• Continue to tighten the nut until contact with the rim and then tighten to the final torque. The recommended torque setting is 4.0 Nm (35 lbf.in). For example, this allows the final torque to be between 3.5 to 4.5 Nm if a +/- 12 % tolerance torque wrench is used. (Note : it is recommended to use a class B tool but a class C tool is acceptable)
• The standard recommended torque range is given by the ETRTO, TRA… for a rubber corner joint valve.
Important : Tighten slowly with quarter turn steps until the final torque is reached.
Check that the sensor is firmly attached to the rim at the valve hole interface. Final positioning of the sensor feet is dependent on the wheel dimensions and may not be uniform. Possibilities are neither foot, one foot or both feet may contact the wheel drop center.
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Toyota 2L-T, 3L Engine Repair Manual Supplement
To assist you in finding your way through this manual, the Section Title and major heading are given at the top of every page. An INDEX is provided on the 1st page of each section to guide you to the item to be repaired. At the beginning of each section, PRECAUTIONS are given that pertain to all repair operations contained in that section. Read these precautions before starting any repair task. TROUBLESHOOTING tables are included for each system to help you diagnose the problem and find the cause. The repair for each possible cause is referenced in the remedy column to quickly lead you to the solution.
How to Use This Manual
The procedures are presented in a step-by-step format: #
• The illustration shows what to do and where to do it.
• The task heading tells what todo.
• The detailed text tells how to perform the task and gives other information such as specifications and warnings.
This format provides the experienced technician with a FAST TRACK to the information needed. The upper case task heading can be read at a glance when necessary, and the text below it provides detailed information. Important specifications and warnings always stand out in bold type.
GENERAL REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
1. Use fender, seat and floor covers to keep the vehicle clean and prevent damage.
2. During disassembly, keep parts in order to facilitate reassembly.
3. Observe the following.
(a) Before performing electrical work, disconnect the negative (—) cable from the battery terminal.
(b) If it is necessary to disconnect the battery for inspection or repair, always disconnect the cable from the negative (—) terminal which is grounded to the vehicle body.
(c) To prevent damage to the battery terminal post, loos- en the terminal nut and raise the cable straight up without twisting or prying it.
(d) Clean the battery terminal posts and cable terminals with a shop rag. Do not scrape them with a file or other abrasive object.
(e) Install the cable terminal to the battery post with the nut loose, and tighten the nut after installation. Do not use a hammer to tap the terminal onto the post. (f) Be sure the cover for the positive (+) terminal is properly in place.
4. Check hose and wiring connectors to make sure that they are secure and correct.
5. Non-reusable parts
(a) Always replace cotter pins, gaskets, O-rings, oil seals, etc. with new ones.
(b) Non-reusable parts are indicated in the component illustrations by the " ♦ " symbol.
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How to Use This Manual
The procedures are presented in a step-by-step format: #
• The illustration shows what to do and where to do it.
• The task heading tells what todo.
• The detailed text tells how to perform the task and gives other information such as specifications and warnings.
This format provides the experienced technician with a FAST TRACK to the information needed. The upper case task heading can be read at a glance when necessary, and the text below it provides detailed information. Important specifications and warnings always stand out in bold type.
GENERAL REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
1. Use fender, seat and floor covers to keep the vehicle clean and prevent damage.
2. During disassembly, keep parts in order to facilitate reassembly.
3. Observe the following.
(a) Before performing electrical work, disconnect the negative (—) cable from the battery terminal.
(b) If it is necessary to disconnect the battery for inspection or repair, always disconnect the cable from the negative (—) terminal which is grounded to the vehicle body.
(c) To prevent damage to the battery terminal post, loos- en the terminal nut and raise the cable straight up without twisting or prying it.
(d) Clean the battery terminal posts and cable terminals with a shop rag. Do not scrape them with a file or other abrasive object.
(e) Install the cable terminal to the battery post with the nut loose, and tighten the nut after installation. Do not use a hammer to tap the terminal onto the post. (f) Be sure the cover for the positive (+) terminal is properly in place.
4. Check hose and wiring connectors to make sure that they are secure and correct.
5. Non-reusable parts
(a) Always replace cotter pins, gaskets, O-rings, oil seals, etc. with new ones.
(b) Non-reusable parts are indicated in the component illustrations by the " ♦ " symbol.
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Toyota Echo/Yaris TWM Performance Shifter Cable Bushing Kit Installation Manual
It is preferable to park on a flat surface, as you may have to engage and disengage the hand brake and shift from gears to neutral. If you cannot do so and are obliged to install the shifter cable bushings on a slightly inclined surface, place wooden blocks in front or behind the wheels to prevent the car from moving while you’re working.
Estimated Installation Time: 30 minutes
Tools required:
▪ Ratchet
▪ 10 mm deep socket
▪ Ratchet extension
▪ Needle nose pliers/vise grips
Install:
1. Working in the engine bay, unscrew the two battery terminals using a ratchet with a 10mm socket. Remove the battery tie-down using a 10mm deep socket for the two bolts. The throttle cable must be removed from the bracket as shown to the left. Take note of how the battery tie down is installed and put it aside for re-installation later.
2. Remove the battery and plastic battery tray from the engine bay. Put them aside in a safe place for re-installation later.
3. Begin removal of the intake by loosening the bolt highlighted to the left with a 10mm socket and a ratchet and disconnect the outlet tube from the air box. Unplug both sensors highlighted on the picture from the air box. Unclip the two latches on the air box. Remove the top part of the air box and air filter to have access to the bottom part of the air box. Put them aside for re-installation later.
4. Remove the three bolts at the bottom of the air box using a 10mm socket and a ratchet with an extension. Put them aside for re-installation later.
5. Unscrew the bolt holding the intake near the driver side headlight using a 10mm socket and a ratchet with an extension. Remove the bottom part of the intake from the engine bay and put it aside for re-installation later.
6. You now have access to both cable bushings. Remove the cotter hairpins using needle nose pliers. Also remove the metal washers holding down the stock rubber bushings. These washers will not be re-used, but should be kept in case you revert back to the stock bushings in the future.
7. Remove the two stock rubber bushings from the shifter cables. You can use the pin on the transmission arm (where the cotter hairpin was connected) to force the bushings out of the shifter cables. Use the provided sandpaper to clean up both pins and the inside of the loop on the cable if there is corrosion. These bushings will not be re-used but should be kept in case you revert back to stock bushings in the future.
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Estimated Installation Time: 30 minutes
Tools required:
▪ Ratchet
▪ 10 mm deep socket
▪ Ratchet extension
▪ Needle nose pliers/vise grips
Install:
1. Working in the engine bay, unscrew the two battery terminals using a ratchet with a 10mm socket. Remove the battery tie-down using a 10mm deep socket for the two bolts. The throttle cable must be removed from the bracket as shown to the left. Take note of how the battery tie down is installed and put it aside for re-installation later.
2. Remove the battery and plastic battery tray from the engine bay. Put them aside in a safe place for re-installation later.
3. Begin removal of the intake by loosening the bolt highlighted to the left with a 10mm socket and a ratchet and disconnect the outlet tube from the air box. Unplug both sensors highlighted on the picture from the air box. Unclip the two latches on the air box. Remove the top part of the air box and air filter to have access to the bottom part of the air box. Put them aside for re-installation later.
4. Remove the three bolts at the bottom of the air box using a 10mm socket and a ratchet with an extension. Put them aside for re-installation later.
5. Unscrew the bolt holding the intake near the driver side headlight using a 10mm socket and a ratchet with an extension. Remove the bottom part of the intake from the engine bay and put it aside for re-installation later.
6. You now have access to both cable bushings. Remove the cotter hairpins using needle nose pliers. Also remove the metal washers holding down the stock rubber bushings. These washers will not be re-used, but should be kept in case you revert back to the stock bushings in the future.
7. Remove the two stock rubber bushings from the shifter cables. You can use the pin on the transmission arm (where the cotter hairpin was connected) to force the bushings out of the shifter cables. Use the provided sandpaper to clean up both pins and the inside of the loop on the cable if there is corrosion. These bushings will not be re-used but should be kept in case you revert back to stock bushings in the future.
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95-97 Toyota Tercel Short Throw Shifter Installation Manual
Installation Procedure:
1. Unscrew the stock shift knob by rotating it counter clockwise.
2. Use a Philips head screwdriver to remove the 2 screws on either side of the console just behind the shift boot. Sliding the seats fully rearward allows easy access to these screws.
3. Slide the front seats fully forward and use a Philips head screwdriver to remove the 2 screws on either side of the back of the center console.
4. Lift the rear portion of the center console out of the car and put in a safe place for re-installation.
5. Locate the clips at the top front portion of the center console. Gently push in the center portion of these clips with your finger or a screwdriver, and then pull out on them to remove them.
6. Pull the plate surrounding the stereo out slightly to free the front portion of the console.
7. Use needle nose pliers to disconnect the clip holding the cigarette lighter power connector to the steel bracket.
8. Disconnect the power connector from the cigarette lighter on the front portion of the console.
9. The front portion of the center console can now be removed from the car. Lift it up from the rear and pull up and out of the car.
10. Use a flat head screwdriver and a hammer to pry the clip on the passenger side of the assembly off of the shaft. Use caution during this step as the clip may break and become a dangerous projectile. Use the screwdriver and wedge it between the plastic assembly and the clip and gradually work it off the shaft. Alternatively, a Dremel tool may be used to cut the clip off as a new one is included in the kit.
11. Remove the clip from the side “L” shaped arm and slide the shift cable off the side arm.
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1. Unscrew the stock shift knob by rotating it counter clockwise.
2. Use a Philips head screwdriver to remove the 2 screws on either side of the console just behind the shift boot. Sliding the seats fully rearward allows easy access to these screws.
3. Slide the front seats fully forward and use a Philips head screwdriver to remove the 2 screws on either side of the back of the center console.
4. Lift the rear portion of the center console out of the car and put in a safe place for re-installation.
5. Locate the clips at the top front portion of the center console. Gently push in the center portion of these clips with your finger or a screwdriver, and then pull out on them to remove them.
6. Pull the plate surrounding the stereo out slightly to free the front portion of the console.
7. Use needle nose pliers to disconnect the clip holding the cigarette lighter power connector to the steel bracket.
8. Disconnect the power connector from the cigarette lighter on the front portion of the console.
9. The front portion of the center console can now be removed from the car. Lift it up from the rear and pull up and out of the car.
10. Use a flat head screwdriver and a hammer to pry the clip on the passenger side of the assembly off of the shaft. Use caution during this step as the clip may break and become a dangerous projectile. Use the screwdriver and wedge it between the plastic assembly and the clip and gradually work it off the shaft. Alternatively, a Dremel tool may be used to cut the clip off as a new one is included in the kit.
11. Remove the clip from the side “L” shaped arm and slide the shift cable off the side arm.
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Thursday, March 18, 2010
Toyota RAV4 Complete Report Manual
For 2004, the Toyota RAV4 features a more robust engine, exterior and interior updates, and more standard equipment. The previous 148-hp, 2.0-liter four-cylinder has been supplanted by a 2.4-liter that makes 161 hp. The suspension and steering have been retuned accordingly. The front and rear ends both have a new look, and inside, cosmetic changes include a redesigned steering wheel, instrument panel, and center dash. Anti-lock brakes with brake assist are now standard, as are air conditioning, cruise control, steering-wheel audio controls, and power windows, door locks, and mirrors. The RAV4's interior has more room than most mid-size station wagons: 68.3 cubic feet in the rear. The original cute-ute is available with front-wheel drive or a full-time four-wheel-drive system that operates transparently. The RAV4 is nimble, practical, good looking, and well made.
The Avalon, introduced early for '06, is a larger, more powerful, and better-looking version of what had been a pretty anonymous sedan, despite its position at the top of Toyota's line. The Prius hybrid gets redesigned front and rear lamps, new colors, and more luxury options such as a leather interior and a rearview camera. Otherwise, Toyota is concentrating on solidifying its lead in the hybrid race—it plans to double global production of these vehicles to 500,000 next year.
Unchanged: Camry, Camry Solara, Corolla, Corolla Matrix, Echo.
Dead: MR2 Spyder, Celica.
Future: More hybrids, including built-in-North America Prius and Camry, and an Echo replacement. Toyota's truck line adds a Highlander hybrid powered by a 208-hp six-cylinder engine and an electric motor. The 4Runner gets a mild facial, new colors, and a few trim and equipment upgrades, as does the Sienna. The Land Cruiser's 4.7-liter V- 8 is upgraded with variable valve timing, upping power to 275 horsepower, 40 more than previously, and the big truck gets a new grille, headlamps, and taillamps. The RAV4 is scheduled for a major redesign later this year. Unchanged: Highlander, Sequoia, Tacoma, Tundra.
Future: The FJ Cruiser, a boxy two-door SUV with military overtones. A "heavy duty" pickup to compete with the likes of Ford's Super Duty. And a bigger Tundra that will be built in San Antonio in late 2006.
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The Avalon, introduced early for '06, is a larger, more powerful, and better-looking version of what had been a pretty anonymous sedan, despite its position at the top of Toyota's line. The Prius hybrid gets redesigned front and rear lamps, new colors, and more luxury options such as a leather interior and a rearview camera. Otherwise, Toyota is concentrating on solidifying its lead in the hybrid race—it plans to double global production of these vehicles to 500,000 next year.
Unchanged: Camry, Camry Solara, Corolla, Corolla Matrix, Echo.
Dead: MR2 Spyder, Celica.
Future: More hybrids, including built-in-North America Prius and Camry, and an Echo replacement. Toyota's truck line adds a Highlander hybrid powered by a 208-hp six-cylinder engine and an electric motor. The 4Runner gets a mild facial, new colors, and a few trim and equipment upgrades, as does the Sienna. The Land Cruiser's 4.7-liter V- 8 is upgraded with variable valve timing, upping power to 275 horsepower, 40 more than previously, and the big truck gets a new grille, headlamps, and taillamps. The RAV4 is scheduled for a major redesign later this year. Unchanged: Highlander, Sequoia, Tacoma, Tundra.
Future: The FJ Cruiser, a boxy two-door SUV with military overtones. A "heavy duty" pickup to compete with the likes of Ford's Super Duty. And a bigger Tundra that will be built in San Antonio in late 2006.
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