Congratulations! You have just purchased the best engineered, dyno-prove intake system available. Please check the contents of this box immediately. Report any defective or missing parts to the Authorized Injen Technology dealer you purchased this product from. Before installing any parts of this system, please read the instructions thoroughly. If you have any questions regarding installation please contact the dealer you purchased this product from. Installation DOES require some mechanical skills. A qualified mechanic is always recommended. *Do not attempt to install the intake system while the engine is hot. The installation may require removal of radiator fluid line that may be hot. Injen Technology offers a limited lifetime warranty to the original purchaser against defects in materials and workmanship. Warranty claims must be handled through the dealer from which the item was purchased.
Note: Disconnect the negative battery teriminal before starting this installation.
1 Remove the air intake box cover and intake air intake duct leading to the throttle body.
2 Remove the PCV pipe as seen in figure 4 and replace the water bypass valve with the 15”- 6mm hose provided in the kit. The coolant line port is located on the intake manifold housing . See diagram’s A or B The location of the coolant line port hose may vary depending on the year of your car. ( Do not attempt to remove any lines until your engine is cool to the touch.)
3 All Ex-models 94-97- Remove all of the components as seen in diagram C- #8. Since the cold air intake is not being used in this application the air resonator box can remain in the stock location. Once the components have been removed from the metal pipe leading to the EGR valve, you may cap-off or plug as indicated in figure 6 and diagram C. Use the 5mm vacuum cap to seal the line.
4 Screw the vibra-mount into the fender wall as seen in figure 3 and use the m6 nut and washer to attach it.
5 Place the step hose onto the throttle body and use two clamps and tighten the clamp on the throttler body at this point. See fig. 2
6 Place the end of the intake with the 1/2” aluminum nipple into the 3” side of the step hose and align the bracket on the intake to the vibra-mount stud and semi-tighten the nut and clamp. See figs. 5 and 7
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Showing posts with label hose. Show all posts
Showing posts with label hose. Show all posts
Tuesday, May 18, 2010
Monday, April 26, 2010
CAT-303 Installation and Parts Manual
Installation Environment
1) The distance between the unit and outside wall or other goods should be kept over 200mm.The unit should be put in well-ventilated area and its temperature is within -10℃~+40 .℃
2) Check air supply pipeline of the unit and use air source with 3~10 bar to supply for the unit. When connecting the air source, please check if there is leakage in connector for air source and ensure that a certain distance between the air hose and heat source should be kept.
3) To ensure safety. Before connecting the air source, please confirm that the air pressure adjusting valve is closed. Never point the air outlet to personnel.
Connecting Hose
1) Lift the vehicle to proper height with lifter.
2) Remove the hose between the auto transmission and radiator. See Fig.5.
3) Fill desired quantity of new ATF into the unit according to the vehicle type.
4) Connect the return hose of the unit to the outlet hose of the auto transmission.
5) Connect the outlet hose of the unit to the inlet hose of the radiator.
6) Connect the air inlet on the unit to compressed air. Please be sure that the needle valve is in the open state and the air pressure adjusting valve is in the closed state before connecting the compressed air.
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1) The distance between the unit and outside wall or other goods should be kept over 200mm.The unit should be put in well-ventilated area and its temperature is within -10℃~+40 .℃
2) Check air supply pipeline of the unit and use air source with 3~10 bar to supply for the unit. When connecting the air source, please check if there is leakage in connector for air source and ensure that a certain distance between the air hose and heat source should be kept.
3) To ensure safety. Before connecting the air source, please confirm that the air pressure adjusting valve is closed. Never point the air outlet to personnel.
Connecting Hose
1) Lift the vehicle to proper height with lifter.
2) Remove the hose between the auto transmission and radiator. See Fig.5.
3) Fill desired quantity of new ATF into the unit according to the vehicle type.
4) Connect the return hose of the unit to the outlet hose of the auto transmission.
5) Connect the outlet hose of the unit to the inlet hose of the radiator.
6) Connect the air inlet on the unit to compressed air. Please be sure that the needle valve is in the open state and the air pressure adjusting valve is in the closed state before connecting the compressed air.
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Friday, April 9, 2010
1992–1995 Honda Civic Cold Air System Installation Instructions
The AEM Cold Air System is the result of extensive development on a wide variety of cars. Each system is engineered for the particular application. The AEM Cold Air System differs from all others in several ways. We take the inlet air from outside of the engine compartment where the inlet air is considerably cooler than the hot underhood air. The cooler inlet air temperature translates to more power during the combustion process because cool air is denser than warm air. AEM has conducted extensive inlet air temperature studies and we have seen temperature reductions of up to 50 degrees by pulling air from outside of the engine compartment. The air mass flow to the engine is increased because of the increased airflow and reduced inlet temperature, which translates to more power. The AEM Cold Air Systems are 50 states Street Legal (some model and years still pending) and come with complete instructions for ease of installation.
Removing the stock air inlet system
a) Remove the stock air box assembly and attaching hardware from inside the fender well.
b) Disconnect breather hose from the air inlet tube.
c) Disconnect the water bypass hose from throttle body or the fast idle thermo valve, where equipped, located at the lower portion of the throttle body. Disconnect the opposite side of the water bypass hose, which runs to either the intake manifold or the water outlet neck. Remove the entire water bypass hose and breather hose assembly from the vehicle.
d) Loosen and remove the air inlet tube from the throttle body.
e) Jack the front of the vehicle and support using properly rated jack stands.
i) Remove the lower front splashguard.
ii) Remove the front right tire and remove the inside splashguard (inner fender liner).
f) Remove the resonator from underneath the vehicle.
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Removing the stock air inlet system
a) Remove the stock air box assembly and attaching hardware from inside the fender well.
b) Disconnect breather hose from the air inlet tube.
c) Disconnect the water bypass hose from throttle body or the fast idle thermo valve, where equipped, located at the lower portion of the throttle body. Disconnect the opposite side of the water bypass hose, which runs to either the intake manifold or the water outlet neck. Remove the entire water bypass hose and breather hose assembly from the vehicle.
d) Loosen and remove the air inlet tube from the throttle body.
e) Jack the front of the vehicle and support using properly rated jack stands.
i) Remove the lower front splashguard.
ii) Remove the front right tire and remove the inside splashguard (inner fender liner).
f) Remove the resonator from underneath the vehicle.
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Tuesday, July 15, 2008
Forge Motorsport Golf 1.8T, SEAT Leon 1.8T and Audi A3 1.8T DV fitting guide
Tools required: - Cross head screwdriver, Flat blade screwdriver, 6mm and 7mm hose
clip drivers, Sharp craft knife.
1/ Open bonnet/hood. Remove the plastic engine cover. Remove the hose running between the throttle body housing and the top intercooler connection (bottom left hand corner of the picture above)
2/ Fit the new hose with the 25mm spout as shown above. If the hose is too long it will probably become misshapen, if this happens then remove and simply trim the ends with a sharp craft knife, only remove 10-15mm at any time and refit to check the hose shape after each cut if required. Once happy with the fit then secure with the hose clips supplied.
3/ Now remove your Diverter Valve from its original location in the Turbo inlet Pipe and fit it into the relocation hose as shown above. Secure with the hose clip supplied.
4/ Use the 90 degree plastic bends and the straight 25mm hose to complete the hose run between the Turbo intake pipe and the new DV location. Use the hose clips supplied and secure all hose connections once you are happy with the fit and routeing. Fit the 25mm blanking plug to the original DV boost hose and secure with a hose clip. (If you have spare hose from the straight length provided you can remove the boost hose and fit a short length of 25mm silicon hose and blank this as per both pictures here)
5/ Use the vacuum pipe and joiner as supplied in order to extend the original DV vacuum pipe to the new DV location, fix the vacuum pipe to the top of the DV as shown above. Use the zip ties supplied to tidy up the 25mm hose and prevent any other engine parts from rubbing through.
6/ Refit engine cover. Clear away all tools and close the bonnet/hood.
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clip drivers, Sharp craft knife.
1/ Open bonnet/hood. Remove the plastic engine cover. Remove the hose running between the throttle body housing and the top intercooler connection (bottom left hand corner of the picture above)
2/ Fit the new hose with the 25mm spout as shown above. If the hose is too long it will probably become misshapen, if this happens then remove and simply trim the ends with a sharp craft knife, only remove 10-15mm at any time and refit to check the hose shape after each cut if required. Once happy with the fit then secure with the hose clips supplied.
3/ Now remove your Diverter Valve from its original location in the Turbo inlet Pipe and fit it into the relocation hose as shown above. Secure with the hose clip supplied.
4/ Use the 90 degree plastic bends and the straight 25mm hose to complete the hose run between the Turbo intake pipe and the new DV location. Use the hose clips supplied and secure all hose connections once you are happy with the fit and routeing. Fit the 25mm blanking plug to the original DV boost hose and secure with a hose clip. (If you have spare hose from the straight length provided you can remove the boost hose and fit a short length of 25mm silicon hose and blank this as per both pictures here)
5/ Use the vacuum pipe and joiner as supplied in order to extend the original DV vacuum pipe to the new DV location, fix the vacuum pipe to the top of the DV as shown above. Use the zip ties supplied to tidy up the 25mm hose and prevent any other engine parts from rubbing through.
6/ Refit engine cover. Clear away all tools and close the bonnet/hood.
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Saturday, July 12, 2008
1997 Ford F 150 4.6 97 Expedition Heater Core Replacement Instructions
Shopping list from FORD dealer, $15.00 for 2 sets of heater hose o-rings and snap clips, $40.00 heater core, (cheaper at the dealer but no warrantee, aftermarket parts store model preferred by many @ $55) insulated foam tape to wrap new core with (parts dept just gave me what I needed), and a gallon of anti freeze.
1. Tying off the antenna cable to a old shoelace was a great little trick that made the reassembly a snap, allowed pulling antenna cable back out of the hole real easy. I used elect tape too, didn’t want "ANY" surprises later!
2. Get the heater hose removal tool from a mechanic willing to loan it out to you. I was surprised at the helping hand the dealer mechs were. The tool took a few minutes to figure out. Took a second trip back to the Ford dealer for replacement o-rings and clips. save time, buy these first cause you'll break the originals, if you dont, change em anyway, your in this deep!! 2-A Another method without using the tool is just cutting off the inlet and outlet pipes from the heater core with a saws-all and pulling the hose/pipe out from the engine compartment side. This is done after the H-Core plenum is removed. I got so frustrated without the special tool I nearly did this too!!
3. Leave all the steering column and large bulkhead elect plugs attached, I unhooked these before the Ford mechanic advised me not to mess with them.
4. Try to follow in reverse the "dash removal instructions" during reassembly so you dont have any "do overs" when you cant get a screw to line up properly. (Don’t ask how I now this)
5. Get a large box for all the trim parts.
6. Updated tip To help to figure out where all the screws go I am recommending an idea from a user of this heater doc who offered this tip. I wish I had used this method myself, had 3 left over, no rattles. Tip: if you have a helper, have them read the steps aloud while you perform them and also have them put the screws removed in baggies labeled with the corresponding number of the step.
7. I removed the big elect housing located right over the heater core housing to aide in getting the cover reinstalled, it was in the way when I was reinstalling the plenum cover, 2 screws, no big deal.
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1. Tying off the antenna cable to a old shoelace was a great little trick that made the reassembly a snap, allowed pulling antenna cable back out of the hole real easy. I used elect tape too, didn’t want "ANY" surprises later!
2. Get the heater hose removal tool from a mechanic willing to loan it out to you. I was surprised at the helping hand the dealer mechs were. The tool took a few minutes to figure out. Took a second trip back to the Ford dealer for replacement o-rings and clips. save time, buy these first cause you'll break the originals, if you dont, change em anyway, your in this deep!! 2-A Another method without using the tool is just cutting off the inlet and outlet pipes from the heater core with a saws-all and pulling the hose/pipe out from the engine compartment side. This is done after the H-Core plenum is removed. I got so frustrated without the special tool I nearly did this too!!
3. Leave all the steering column and large bulkhead elect plugs attached, I unhooked these before the Ford mechanic advised me not to mess with them.
4. Try to follow in reverse the "dash removal instructions" during reassembly so you dont have any "do overs" when you cant get a screw to line up properly. (Don’t ask how I now this)
5. Get a large box for all the trim parts.
6. Updated tip To help to figure out where all the screws go I am recommending an idea from a user of this heater doc who offered this tip. I wish I had used this method myself, had 3 left over, no rattles. Tip: if you have a helper, have them read the steps aloud while you perform them and also have them put the screws removed in baggies labeled with the corresponding number of the step.
7. I removed the big elect housing located right over the heater core housing to aide in getting the cover reinstalled, it was in the way when I was reinstalling the plenum cover, 2 screws, no big deal.
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