This kit is designed to fit the 1995 and newer AX15 transmission. Earlier model transmissions can use a stock pilot bushing, one with a .590" I.D. We recommend that the stock flywheel be removed and resurfaced at a machine shop. A new clutch disc and release bearing has been provided in this kit. A new pressure plate is also recommended before installing your new transmission. We offer a Centerforce pressure plate, Part No. CF361914. Before disposing of the old AX5 transmission, you will need to retain the shifter housing from that transmission. You will also be using the stock 4 cylinder bellhousing and stock release arm and crossmember mount.
The transfer case must have a new input gear installed to fit to the AX15 transmission. If retaining the NP231 transfer case and because the new transmission is longer, we highly recommend a fixed yoke kit to be installed during this transmission swap. This will allow for a new, longer rear drive shaft. The Atlas 2 speed or 4 speed transfer cases are also an excellent upgrade to your Jeep, and this would be the perfect time for this additional upgrade.
ASSEMBLY PROCEDURES:
1. Refer to a service manual for the removal of the stock AX5 transmission. Also remove the pressure plate, disc, and flywheel.
2. Resurface the flywheel and remove the old pilot bushing. Check the new pilot bushing on the AX15 pilot tip and install into flywheel if it is the correct size. Mount the flywheel to the block and torque the flywheel bolts to factory specifications.
3. Install the new clutch disc and pressure plate onto the flywheel.
4. Install the two new dowel pins into the adapter plate. The pins are a press fit.
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Saturday, May 1, 2010
2004 Mazda Mazda RX-8 Quick Tips
RX-8 Quick Tipsо are designed to quickly familiarize you with some important features of your RX-8 This Driver’s View tab is your index to the Quick Tipsо, locate the item you would like to learn more about and then turn to the listed tab Be sure to see the tab called Getting Started, this section contains important operating tips about your RX-8 Items identified with a Rotary Engine symbol call out important information.
1. Power window switches, see Switches/Locks
2. Power door locks, see Switches/Locks
3. Dual power mirrors, see Switches/Locks
4. Instrument panel lighting, see Getting Started
5. Turn signal/lighting control lever, see Driver Controls
6. Air vents
7. Traction Control System*, see Getting Started
8. Audio control switches*, see Driver Controls
9. Tire pressure monitoring system, see Getting Started
10. Horn/Air bag
11. Cruise control, see Driver Controls
12. Wiper/washer control lever, see Driver Controls DSC
13. Clock, see Audio Systems
14. Information display, see Owner’s Manual
15. Hazard warning switch, Press on/off
16. NAVI system* System is used to locate street addresses, points of interest or cross streets: see your Owner’s Manual for additional operating information
17. Ambient temperature display
18. Audio system, see Audio Systems
19. Climate control panel, see Climate Controls
20. Gearshift lever (A/T)*, see Transmission
21. Parking brake lever, see Console/Transmission
22. Cup holder
23. Accessory socket
24. Console, see Console/Transmission
25. Seat warmer*, see Console/Transmission
26. Steering paddle switches (A/T only)*, see Transmission
27. Tilt steering-wheel lever, see Driver Controls
28. Storage
29. Hood release handle
30. Remote trunk-lid release Push to open trunk; main switch in glove box must be ON Remote trunk-lid release lock-out, see Trunk
31. Power window lock switch
32. Remote fuel-door release Use unleaded gasoline, 91-octane only.
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1. Power window switches, see Switches/Locks
2. Power door locks, see Switches/Locks
3. Dual power mirrors, see Switches/Locks
4. Instrument panel lighting, see Getting Started
5. Turn signal/lighting control lever, see Driver Controls
6. Air vents
7. Traction Control System*, see Getting Started
8. Audio control switches*, see Driver Controls
9. Tire pressure monitoring system, see Getting Started
10. Horn/Air bag
11. Cruise control, see Driver Controls
12. Wiper/washer control lever, see Driver Controls DSC
13. Clock, see Audio Systems
14. Information display, see Owner’s Manual
15. Hazard warning switch, Press on/off
16. NAVI system* System is used to locate street addresses, points of interest or cross streets: see your Owner’s Manual for additional operating information
17. Ambient temperature display
18. Audio system, see Audio Systems
19. Climate control panel, see Climate Controls
20. Gearshift lever (A/T)*, see Transmission
21. Parking brake lever, see Console/Transmission
22. Cup holder
23. Accessory socket
24. Console, see Console/Transmission
25. Seat warmer*, see Console/Transmission
26. Steering paddle switches (A/T only)*, see Transmission
27. Tilt steering-wheel lever, see Driver Controls
28. Storage
29. Hood release handle
30. Remote trunk-lid release Push to open trunk; main switch in glove box must be ON Remote trunk-lid release lock-out, see Trunk
31. Power window lock switch
32. Remote fuel-door release Use unleaded gasoline, 91-octane only.
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2006 Nissan Quest Owners Manual
Slip indicator light and Vehicle dynamic control VDC off indicator light in the Instruments and controls section Indicator light If malfunction occurs in the system and indicator lights come the on in the instrument panel As long as these indicator lights are on the traction control function is canceled. The Slip indicator will flash if wheel spin is detected The ABS will still operate with the VDC system off.
When the VDC system is operating you may feel a pulsation in the brake pedal and hear a noise or vibration from under the hood This is normal and indicates that the VDC system is working properly The computer has a built in diagnostic feature that tests the system each time you start the engine and move the vehicle forward or in reverse at a slow speed When the self test occurs you may hear a clunk noise and or feel a pulsation in the brake pedal This is normal and is not an indication of a malfunction WARNING The vehicle dynamic control system is designed to help improve driving stability but does not prevent accidents due to abrupt steering operation at high speeds or by careless or dangerous driving techniques Reduce vehicle speed and be especially careful when driving and cornering on slippery surfaces and always drive carefully Starting and driving 5 21 REVIEW COPY 2006 Quest van Owners Manual USA English nna 05 27 05 tbrooks REAR SONAR SYSTEM if so equipped If brake related parts such as brake pads rotors and calipers are not standard equipment or are extremely deteriorated the vehicle dynamic control system may not operate properly and the vehicle dynamic control off indicator light may come on Do not modify the vehicle s suspension If suspension parts such as shock absorbers struts springs stabilizer bars and bushings are not NISSAN approved for your vehicle or are extremely deteriorated the vehicle dynamic control system may not operate properly This could adversely affect vehicle handling performance and the VDC OFF indicator light may come on When driving on extremely inclined surfaces such as higher banked corners the vehicle dynamic control system may not operate properly and the VDC OFF indicator light may come on Do not drive on these types of roads When driving on an unstable surface such as a turntable ferry elevator or ramp the vehicle dynamic control off indicator light may illuminate
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When the VDC system is operating you may feel a pulsation in the brake pedal and hear a noise or vibration from under the hood This is normal and indicates that the VDC system is working properly The computer has a built in diagnostic feature that tests the system each time you start the engine and move the vehicle forward or in reverse at a slow speed When the self test occurs you may hear a clunk noise and or feel a pulsation in the brake pedal This is normal and is not an indication of a malfunction WARNING The vehicle dynamic control system is designed to help improve driving stability but does not prevent accidents due to abrupt steering operation at high speeds or by careless or dangerous driving techniques Reduce vehicle speed and be especially careful when driving and cornering on slippery surfaces and always drive carefully Starting and driving 5 21 REVIEW COPY 2006 Quest van Owners Manual USA English nna 05 27 05 tbrooks REAR SONAR SYSTEM if so equipped If brake related parts such as brake pads rotors and calipers are not standard equipment or are extremely deteriorated the vehicle dynamic control system may not operate properly and the vehicle dynamic control off indicator light may come on Do not modify the vehicle s suspension If suspension parts such as shock absorbers struts springs stabilizer bars and bushings are not NISSAN approved for your vehicle or are extremely deteriorated the vehicle dynamic control system may not operate properly This could adversely affect vehicle handling performance and the VDC OFF indicator light may come on When driving on extremely inclined surfaces such as higher banked corners the vehicle dynamic control system may not operate properly and the VDC OFF indicator light may come on Do not drive on these types of roads When driving on an unstable surface such as a turntable ferry elevator or ramp the vehicle dynamic control off indicator light may illuminate
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Bulk Instructions Simple
Step 1 – Muffler Disassembly
Before removing any fasteners, it is a good idea to make some marks on the shell and end-caps that will remind you how to orient the end-caps during reassembly.
If one of the muffler’s end-caps has threaded fasteners, remove them and pull out the end-cap that they hold in place. If the core is still in the muffler go to Step 2. If the core is attached to the end-cap that you just removed, remove the other end-cap and re-install the core and the attached end-cap.
(Tip: If sealant is visible where the muffler body meets the end-cap, cut through it with a razor knife to break its bond.)
STEP 2 – Packing Installation
Push small amounts of the into the muffler cavity spirally around the core. Use a blunt tool like a ruler or dowel to tamp the packing into place.
Important! Make sure that the front of the muffler (closest to the engine) is completely filled with no voids before continuing to fill the rest of the muffler.
Continue to feed and tamp one handful of packing at a time into the muffler, working your way around the core. As a rule of thumb, the density of this packing for a two stroke should feel similar to the density of a new foam air filter. For four-strokes, the density should feel more like seat foam. The density of the packing must be uniform throughout the muffler for maximum durability and noise reduction. Specific density information can be found on the reverse side of this sheet.
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Before removing any fasteners, it is a good idea to make some marks on the shell and end-caps that will remind you how to orient the end-caps during reassembly.
If one of the muffler’s end-caps has threaded fasteners, remove them and pull out the end-cap that they hold in place. If the core is still in the muffler go to Step 2. If the core is attached to the end-cap that you just removed, remove the other end-cap and re-install the core and the attached end-cap.
(Tip: If sealant is visible where the muffler body meets the end-cap, cut through it with a razor knife to break its bond.)
STEP 2 – Packing Installation
Push small amounts of the into the muffler cavity spirally around the core. Use a blunt tool like a ruler or dowel to tamp the packing into place.
Important! Make sure that the front of the muffler (closest to the engine) is completely filled with no voids before continuing to fill the rest of the muffler.
Continue to feed and tamp one handful of packing at a time into the muffler, working your way around the core. As a rule of thumb, the density of this packing for a two stroke should feel similar to the density of a new foam air filter. For four-strokes, the density should feel more like seat foam. The density of the packing must be uniform throughout the muffler for maximum durability and noise reduction. Specific density information can be found on the reverse side of this sheet.
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1992-95 VW Corrado VR Front Big Brake Upgrade Installation Instructions
Most 17” wheels will clear the outer diameter of the caliper. Wheel weights mounted on the inside of the wheel may need to be repositioned. The more critical clearance is the spokes of the wheel to the outer face of the caliper. Do not assume an 18, 19 or even 20 inch wheel will clear the outer face of the caliper. A minimum distance of 60.81mm, measured from the outer rotor face to the inside face of the wheel spokes. This is the net metal-to-metal measurement. We recommend at least 2mm additional clearance to clear the ST-40 caliper on our big brake kits. Please refer to the Wheel Fitment section of our website to confirm any wheel fitment issues.
Wheel Spacers
Wheel spacers can provide extra clearance to the outer face of the caliper. This will also space out the entire wheel, widening the track width of the vehicle. Basic suspension settings will generally not be adversely affected by a slight widening (up to 3mm per side) of the track. Fender clearances should be checked on lowered cars, and longer lug studs or wheel bolts may be required. It is the responsibility of the customer to insure wheel spacers are properly specified and installed.
Brake Vibration
The most common causes of brake vibration are run-out and thickness variations on the rotor. Double disc grinding insures the rotor run-out is within +/- 0.002” when installed on our aluminum hat. Thickness variation is within 0.0003”. Under the most extreme conditions, any rotor may warp. Thickness variation will never change, though pad material may get deposited on one spot of the rotor if a foot is left on the brake pedal after coming to a complete stop when the system is hot. This deposited material will induce a vibration, and if sever enough, can only be cured by replacing the rotor. Not following proper break-in procedures for the rotor and pads may also cause pad deposits on the rotor. STOPTECH is not liable for vibrations caused by extreme usage or improper break-in procedures.
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Wheel Spacers
Wheel spacers can provide extra clearance to the outer face of the caliper. This will also space out the entire wheel, widening the track width of the vehicle. Basic suspension settings will generally not be adversely affected by a slight widening (up to 3mm per side) of the track. Fender clearances should be checked on lowered cars, and longer lug studs or wheel bolts may be required. It is the responsibility of the customer to insure wheel spacers are properly specified and installed.
Brake Vibration
The most common causes of brake vibration are run-out and thickness variations on the rotor. Double disc grinding insures the rotor run-out is within +/- 0.002” when installed on our aluminum hat. Thickness variation is within 0.0003”. Under the most extreme conditions, any rotor may warp. Thickness variation will never change, though pad material may get deposited on one spot of the rotor if a foot is left on the brake pedal after coming to a complete stop when the system is hot. This deposited material will induce a vibration, and if sever enough, can only be cured by replacing the rotor. Not following proper break-in procedures for the rotor and pads may also cause pad deposits on the rotor. STOPTECH is not liable for vibrations caused by extreme usage or improper break-in procedures.
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MKIII 2.0 Golf/Jetta Rear Disk Brake DIY
This "how to" assumes you have some basic tools, and safety gear. Safety glasses should be worn at all times when working with tools and automotive fluids. Always use a hydraulic jack and safety stands when lifting or getting under a vehicle. If you are unsure on where to safety lift your vehicle, refer to its owners guide. Brake dust can contain asbestos which has been found to cause cancer. The writer of this how to assumes zero liability in how to use this guide, or any damages that may come from it to you, your property, or others and others property. If you are uncertain at any point, refer to a qualified automotive technician.
Basic Rules, clean brake fluid up with cold water. Keep all fluids, water, dirt, and oil out of the brake system (except for clean brake fluid). Keep all and any grease off pads, shoes, and rotor brake surfaces. If pads become contaminated with grease or oil, throw them out and buy new ones. If rotors become oily, clean them with brake clean, or hot soapy water.
Why Do This?:
Pretty easy, you need rear brakes. This DIY will help you take them apart, clean, and install new pads, rotors, and bearings. For the most part the same rules and tools apply as a front brake job.
However, it is absolutely necessary to have a seal driver set, and a disk brake real caliper retractor tool.
I strongly suggest that if you have never done a brake job, do the fronts fist. Or at least read up on that DIY.
Before you do this make sure the parking brake works 100% if it does
NOT your calipers may be frozen (stuck) and this job is hard and pointless!!!
If you have never installed brakes, or bearings read up on these sites first.
Bearing End Play Adjustment
Basic Bearing Replacement
Installing New Bearing Races into a Rotor
Greasing The Bearings
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Basic Rules, clean brake fluid up with cold water. Keep all fluids, water, dirt, and oil out of the brake system (except for clean brake fluid). Keep all and any grease off pads, shoes, and rotor brake surfaces. If pads become contaminated with grease or oil, throw them out and buy new ones. If rotors become oily, clean them with brake clean, or hot soapy water.
Why Do This?:
Pretty easy, you need rear brakes. This DIY will help you take them apart, clean, and install new pads, rotors, and bearings. For the most part the same rules and tools apply as a front brake job.
However, it is absolutely necessary to have a seal driver set, and a disk brake real caliper retractor tool.
I strongly suggest that if you have never done a brake job, do the fronts fist. Or at least read up on that DIY.
Before you do this make sure the parking brake works 100% if it does
NOT your calipers may be frozen (stuck) and this job is hard and pointless!!!
If you have never installed brakes, or bearings read up on these sites first.
Bearing End Play Adjustment
Basic Bearing Replacement
Installing New Bearing Races into a Rotor
Greasing The Bearings
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VW MKIV Jetta Golf GTI Brake Fluid Flush DIY
Quick and to the point, the reason to change your brake fluid is to save your ass! Brake fluid is a hydroscopic which means it attracts water, big deal right? Wrong, through the brake lines and through your resevoir brake fluid attracts water, water has a really low boiling point, the more water in your lines the lower your boiling point. So you smash the brake pedal to stop you from slaming into the car ahead of you but your brakes barely keep you from hitting him. Your pedal feel may be very "mushy" as some may say. Your pads and rotors are fine so what's the deal. When you slammed your brakes their is a good chance your brake fluid boiled, in turn becoming a gas. Which we all know you can compress gas a lot! So your pedal sinks to the floor. Of course that is worst case scenerio but that is the situation that we are trying to avoid by changing our fluid. Another reason is with our expensive ABS ESP etc. etc. we want to prolong their life as long as we possibly can, new brake fluid will keep corrosion to an absolute minimum.
Bentley Recommends changing your fluid every two years regardless of mileage. Which is a pretty safe bet, however those of us that drive our
asses off may want a bit more insurance, my recommendation is every 30,000 miles or 1 1/2 years. Whichever comes first. Mainly for the fact that in 2 years the fluid has already taken on too much water and is already doing too much damage.
Tools Required: Jack Jackstands, 11mm open ended wrench(9mm wrench for 6spd slave cylinder bleed) Motive power bleeder or equivalent, catch bottles or tubing to collect old fluid, turkey baster to remove old fluid from resevior.
Start with the simple part:
1.Begin loosening up your lugs on your wheels.
2.Jack up your vehicle and support it with jackstands.
3. Remove your wheels. This will let you have plenty of room to work and the front calipers it is nearly impossible to bleed without removing the wheels.
4.Due to variances in 1.8t, tdi, 2.0l, VR6, 3.2l. Remove whatever you need to to have good access to the front of the the brake fluid resevoir.
5. Now remove the yellow fluid level sensor from the brake fluid resevoir.
6. Next take out the plastic screen insert inside the resvoir with a flat head screwdriver as picture.
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Bentley Recommends changing your fluid every two years regardless of mileage. Which is a pretty safe bet, however those of us that drive our
asses off may want a bit more insurance, my recommendation is every 30,000 miles or 1 1/2 years. Whichever comes first. Mainly for the fact that in 2 years the fluid has already taken on too much water and is already doing too much damage.
Tools Required: Jack Jackstands, 11mm open ended wrench(9mm wrench for 6spd slave cylinder bleed) Motive power bleeder or equivalent, catch bottles or tubing to collect old fluid, turkey baster to remove old fluid from resevior.
Start with the simple part:
1.Begin loosening up your lugs on your wheels.
2.Jack up your vehicle and support it with jackstands.
3. Remove your wheels. This will let you have plenty of room to work and the front calipers it is nearly impossible to bleed without removing the wheels.
4.Due to variances in 1.8t, tdi, 2.0l, VR6, 3.2l. Remove whatever you need to to have good access to the front of the the brake fluid resevoir.
5. Now remove the yellow fluid level sensor from the brake fluid resevoir.
6. Next take out the plastic screen insert inside the resvoir with a flat head screwdriver as picture.
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