The BLADE installs easily onto round 1 7/8” to 2” diameter exhaust pipes. Important Notice: In order to install the BLADE, your car must:
• have an exposed, straight tailpipe measuring 1 7/8” - 2.0” in diameter. Example: 2004 Honda Civic
• or, dual exhaust pipes where there are 2 mufflers, each with a single exhaust pipe measuring 1 7/8” - 2.0” in diameter. Example: 2007 Lincoln Town car (in which case 2 BLADES are required).
If your car does not have either of these exhaust configurations, then your exhaust pipe will need modification. This modification is very easy to obtain at any exhaust shop i.e. Meineke, Midas, etc. Simply ask the technician to modify your tailpipe to meet this specification.
WARNING: Installing a BLADE on a tailpipe smaller than a recommended size could cause the BLADE to: (a) rattle off at the end of the tailpipe, and/or (b) not work properly.
Illustrations 1, 2, and 3 illustrate exhaust flows passing through the BLADE. The direction of the exhaust flow inside the BLADE is determined by the shape of the end of your exhaust pipe. The shapes of the exhaust pipes in Illustrations 1 and 2 are OK because they direct exhaust flows through the Exit of the BLADE. The shape of the exhaust pipe in Illustration 3 is NOT OK because it directs the exhaust flow directly into the Fabric Cartridge.
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Showing posts with label car. Show all posts
Showing posts with label car. Show all posts
Sunday, May 23, 2010
Friday, May 7, 2010
How to Disable DLRs
It may help you to know that if you plan on ordering a new General Motors car or truck, but don't want DRLs, you don't have to have them. Simply insist that the car be ordered with RPO T62. RPO means "Regular Production Option" T62 "Lamp System Daytime Running - Delete." (Unofficial list of 2002MY GM truck RPOs) Remember, DRLs are not mandatory in the United States. You don't have to have them if you don't want them. If buying from stock, INSIST that the dealer disable the DRLs as a condition of sale. Contrary to what the dealer might say, there is no law in the US preventing them from doing so.
Many GM have a "DRL fuse", associated with a DRL Module & and up to 3 relays. Usually HI beams in series. Some the LO beams are reduced by 2 volts with a double diode assembly. Some, the fuse also controls the Fog lights and "automatic lights on" at dusk feature. Other cars the fuse will not deactivate the fogs and auto "ON". 1999 and 2000 more likely to have the "auto on" feature, related to the GM liability for no tail lights at night. On some newer GM models it may be possible to press the "Dome Override" button 3 or 4 times within 6 seconds. This will disable the DRLs while the vehicle is running. When it is restarted, the DRL function will reset to "always on." We've heard that this works on full-size and S-series trucks.
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Many GM have a "DRL fuse", associated with a DRL Module & and up to 3 relays. Usually HI beams in series. Some the LO beams are reduced by 2 volts with a double diode assembly. Some, the fuse also controls the Fog lights and "automatic lights on" at dusk feature. Other cars the fuse will not deactivate the fogs and auto "ON". 1999 and 2000 more likely to have the "auto on" feature, related to the GM liability for no tail lights at night. On some newer GM models it may be possible to press the "Dome Override" button 3 or 4 times within 6 seconds. This will disable the DRLs while the vehicle is running. When it is restarted, the DRL function will reset to "always on." We've heard that this works on full-size and S-series trucks.
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Monday, April 5, 2010
Honda Engine Conversions to Classic Minis Mt-b kit Installation Manual
We welcome you to the Honda Powered Mini World. Thank you and Congratulations for your purchase. You can be certain that you have made a wise choice with this upgrade. This kit was designed to help put you on the right track when building your ultimate Mini. With the help of this MT-B Kit, you will be driving your Super Fast Mini soon.
Mini has been made in many variations with many subtle —tweaks“ and varying build quality over its lifetime. It is impossible to account for all these, and some will even be unique to your car. Additionally, your car is likely 15-20 years old, with all that has happened to it in that time.
With all that said, your MT-B kit and these instructions are designed to try to allow for some of these differences. For others, you will have to —field fit“ or adjust as you go. We‘ll do all we can to help keep your project moving along. Please keep in mind that pictures will be of great help, so if you don‘t have a digital camera, (or always wanted one) now is a good time to get one. In fact, you should take LOTS of pictures to document your project. Your project may seem overwhelming at times, but if you take it one step at a time, in a logical sequence and take an occasional break from it, you‘ll do OK.
The purpose of this kit is to make your Honda VTEC installation easy and hassle free. We have taken the research and development headaches out of the install so that you do not have to deal with all of that. The sub-frame mounts to the car. The engine mounts to the sub-frame. And before you know it, you are ready to crank and drive your car.
We have broken the whole VTEC Mini build up into sections, from start to finish. We hope that this will be a pleasurable experience for you and we will do everything that we can to make it that. Just remember, we are available to help you 5 days a week. Just give us a call or an email.
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Mini has been made in many variations with many subtle —tweaks“ and varying build quality over its lifetime. It is impossible to account for all these, and some will even be unique to your car. Additionally, your car is likely 15-20 years old, with all that has happened to it in that time.
With all that said, your MT-B kit and these instructions are designed to try to allow for some of these differences. For others, you will have to —field fit“ or adjust as you go. We‘ll do all we can to help keep your project moving along. Please keep in mind that pictures will be of great help, so if you don‘t have a digital camera, (or always wanted one) now is a good time to get one. In fact, you should take LOTS of pictures to document your project. Your project may seem overwhelming at times, but if you take it one step at a time, in a logical sequence and take an occasional break from it, you‘ll do OK.
The purpose of this kit is to make your Honda VTEC installation easy and hassle free. We have taken the research and development headaches out of the install so that you do not have to deal with all of that. The sub-frame mounts to the car. The engine mounts to the sub-frame. And before you know it, you are ready to crank and drive your car.
We have broken the whole VTEC Mini build up into sections, from start to finish. We hope that this will be a pleasurable experience for you and we will do everything that we can to make it that. Just remember, we are available to help you 5 days a week. Just give us a call or an email.
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Wednesday, July 16, 2008
BMW 1985 – 325e Timing Belt and Water Pump Replacement
Some people say that this job can easily be done with the hood on the car. I found it MUCH easier with the hood off as I ran into a few problems and had better reach with the hood off. Before removing the hood, trace the hinges with a Sharpie or other pen so alignment is easy when you put the hood back on. Mark everything well. Here I’ve marked the proper wiring attachments for the radiator electronics.
Drain the coolant from the system, and make sure you also drain the engine block by unscrewing the 19mm drain plug by the exhaust manifold.
Remove the radiator by unhooking the shroud, hanging it on the fan, disconnect the top hoses and the bottom hose, and undo the two bolts and remove it.
Removal: The Fan & Clutch, the water pump pulley, the distributor cap & rotor and the drive belts.
Remove the fan & clutch. Remember, the 32mm nut opens CLOCKWISE as you look at the car. I used Channel-Locks and a strap wrench to hold the pulley still. I also used the strap wrench to hold the water pump pulley while I removed its 4 retaining bolts.
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Drain the coolant from the system, and make sure you also drain the engine block by unscrewing the 19mm drain plug by the exhaust manifold.
Remove the radiator by unhooking the shroud, hanging it on the fan, disconnect the top hoses and the bottom hose, and undo the two bolts and remove it.
Removal: The Fan & Clutch, the water pump pulley, the distributor cap & rotor and the drive belts.
Remove the fan & clutch. Remember, the 32mm nut opens CLOCKWISE as you look at the car. I used Channel-Locks and a strap wrench to hold the pulley still. I also used the strap wrench to hold the water pump pulley while I removed its 4 retaining bolts.
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Buying Guide for BMW 2002
As early as 1963 there had been discussions about a new and smaller BMW. Thoughts began to focus on a short wheelbase two-door version of the New Class saloon. This plan had particular merit because it would help to re-establish the sporting image that BMW had enjoyed in the 1930's but never recaptured since. The shorter wheelbase would bring handling advantages while the lighter body would improve performance, and of course the two-door configuration would look more sporting than the four-door New Class type. The two-door model did not take long to design.
The New Class wheelbase was shortened from 100.4 inches to 98.4 inches, Wilhelm Hofmeister restyled the passenger cabin to suit, and the front of the car was given a minor facelift. Most of the running gear came directly from the existing four-door saloons, although there was a narrow track rear axle, which made front and rear tracks equal on the two-door model. The decision was made to launch the car with the 1,573cc "1600" engine and, decided to call it the 1600-2. The additional figure 2 standing for its two doors and distinguishing it from the four-door 1600 saloon. The 1600-2 was announced in March 1966 and was immediately acclaimed as a winner. The lighter body made the car nearly as fast as the 1800 sedan, while the excellent handling added a sporting ingredient, which was lacking in the larger car. The motoring press was unable to resist comparisons with Alfa Romeo's sports cars, which suited BMW's needs perfectly. At the Frankfurt Motor show in autumn 1967, they announced an even more sporting version - the 1600ti - with a 105 hp twin carburetor engine. And by this stage BMW were already considering the possibility of giving their two-door vehicle yet another engine in the shape of a 2-litre relative of the 1600ti's four cylinders. Not long after the 1600-2 was announced, Alex von Falkenhausen had a 2-litre engine dropped into an example of the car for his own use. Completely independently, BMW's Planning Director Helmut Werner Bonsch had exactly the same conversion carried out for his car. Neither man knew of the other's car until one day in mid - 1967 when both cars were in the workshops together at BMW. Both were enthusiastic about their 2-litre two-doors, and between them decided to put a formal proposal to the BMW Board that such a model should be considered for production.
Their cause was greatly helped by developments in the USA. BMW had never meant very much in that market before the mid-1960's, and the marque had been imported only in small numbers. The company was well aware of the value of sales success in such a large market, and until this point had not had a model which appealed to American customers. In 1966, all that changed. The new two-door 1600-2 models received rave reviews in the American motoring press, and all of a sudden sales started to gather momentum. Wanting to capitalize on this success, importer Max Hoffman urged the Bavarians to let him have another model in the same vein, and preferably one with even more performance. The only model in that range was the 1600ti. Unfortunately, the twin-carburetor engine could not be made to meet the new Federal exhaust emissions...
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The New Class wheelbase was shortened from 100.4 inches to 98.4 inches, Wilhelm Hofmeister restyled the passenger cabin to suit, and the front of the car was given a minor facelift. Most of the running gear came directly from the existing four-door saloons, although there was a narrow track rear axle, which made front and rear tracks equal on the two-door model. The decision was made to launch the car with the 1,573cc "1600" engine and, decided to call it the 1600-2. The additional figure 2 standing for its two doors and distinguishing it from the four-door 1600 saloon. The 1600-2 was announced in March 1966 and was immediately acclaimed as a winner. The lighter body made the car nearly as fast as the 1800 sedan, while the excellent handling added a sporting ingredient, which was lacking in the larger car. The motoring press was unable to resist comparisons with Alfa Romeo's sports cars, which suited BMW's needs perfectly. At the Frankfurt Motor show in autumn 1967, they announced an even more sporting version - the 1600ti - with a 105 hp twin carburetor engine. And by this stage BMW were already considering the possibility of giving their two-door vehicle yet another engine in the shape of a 2-litre relative of the 1600ti's four cylinders. Not long after the 1600-2 was announced, Alex von Falkenhausen had a 2-litre engine dropped into an example of the car for his own use. Completely independently, BMW's Planning Director Helmut Werner Bonsch had exactly the same conversion carried out for his car. Neither man knew of the other's car until one day in mid - 1967 when both cars were in the workshops together at BMW. Both were enthusiastic about their 2-litre two-doors, and between them decided to put a formal proposal to the BMW Board that such a model should be considered for production.
Their cause was greatly helped by developments in the USA. BMW had never meant very much in that market before the mid-1960's, and the marque had been imported only in small numbers. The company was well aware of the value of sales success in such a large market, and until this point had not had a model which appealed to American customers. In 1966, all that changed. The new two-door 1600-2 models received rave reviews in the American motoring press, and all of a sudden sales started to gather momentum. Wanting to capitalize on this success, importer Max Hoffman urged the Bavarians to let him have another model in the same vein, and preferably one with even more performance. The only model in that range was the 1600ti. Unfortunately, the twin-carburetor engine could not be made to meet the new Federal exhaust emissions...
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Tuesday, July 15, 2008
The Audi S4 Biturbo A buyers guide
You’ll want a car that will last, a car that is safe, sure footed, and to a certain degree a car that you can “grow” with. You want a six-speed manual or tiptronic transmission, permanent four-wheel drive, and a six cylinder turbo-charged engine with the very latest five-valve per cylinder technology, superb build quality, and lots of “go”.
You’ve convinced your better half and your bank manager, you’ve checked with the insurance company that you can be covered and you’ve satisfied your conscience that you’ve made the “right” choice. You’ve made the decision to buy an Audi S4. Here’s how to make the vision into reality...
Model Specifics
Where do you go from here? Well, firstly you might want to appreciate that the Audi S4 biturbo was first released in Europe in 1998, with North America and Canada being introduced to the model in 2000, so there are actually two different models available in Europe.
The external differences can be seen quite quickly, with early vehicles featuring square side-repeaters, thin body-mouldings, flush mounted door handles, and Xenon headlamps with separate indicators. It takes quite an eye to see, but you may also note that the door-mirrors on earlier cars are not quite as “angular” as those of its successor.
You’ll also need to know when browsing through local classifieds and dealer pages that an S4 listed as circa 1994 is not a misprint, and while it is a fabulous car, you do not want to waste valuable time looking at it! The early S4’s (or urS4’s as they are sometimes referred to) are based on the last model Audi 100 cars, and feature a 20-valve 5-cylinder turbocharged engine as found in the Audi S2.
Choosing a vehicle
By choosing an Audi S4 biturbo, you’ve actually cut out some major hassles usually associated with car buying right from the start.
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You’ve convinced your better half and your bank manager, you’ve checked with the insurance company that you can be covered and you’ve satisfied your conscience that you’ve made the “right” choice. You’ve made the decision to buy an Audi S4. Here’s how to make the vision into reality...
Model Specifics
Where do you go from here? Well, firstly you might want to appreciate that the Audi S4 biturbo was first released in Europe in 1998, with North America and Canada being introduced to the model in 2000, so there are actually two different models available in Europe.
The external differences can be seen quite quickly, with early vehicles featuring square side-repeaters, thin body-mouldings, flush mounted door handles, and Xenon headlamps with separate indicators. It takes quite an eye to see, but you may also note that the door-mirrors on earlier cars are not quite as “angular” as those of its successor.
You’ll also need to know when browsing through local classifieds and dealer pages that an S4 listed as circa 1994 is not a misprint, and while it is a fabulous car, you do not want to waste valuable time looking at it! The early S4’s (or urS4’s as they are sometimes referred to) are based on the last model Audi 100 cars, and feature a 20-valve 5-cylinder turbocharged engine as found in the Audi S2.
Choosing a vehicle
By choosing an Audi S4 biturbo, you’ve actually cut out some major hassles usually associated with car buying right from the start.
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Monday, July 14, 2008
PowerBOX Diesel User Manual
PowerBOX (power modules) belong to the category of products, which modify controlling signals and sensor signals outside the engine computer (ECU). They have been designed to emulate the chip tuning effects. Such modifications may be performed in certain situations, e.g. whenever the car computer is a non-reprogrammable type.
The Diesel PowerBOX works with Diesel engines of the following types: Common Rail, VP-37, VP-44, PD and NipponDenso. We offer over 20 Power- Box models equipped with factory plugs, which service several hundred car models of the largest car manufacturers from Europe, USA, Japan and Korea.
WHAT DO YOU GAIN?
When connected to the engine Diesel PowerBOX increases the torque and power by up to 20% in comparison to the serial values. The level of additional power can be controlled by choosing one from the 10(*) programmes offered by the device. The device can also be completely switched off. The modified parameters of the engine do not affect its wearability. One should remember to disconnect the PowerBOX device before visiting a car manufacture’s authorised service centre.
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The Diesel PowerBOX works with Diesel engines of the following types: Common Rail, VP-37, VP-44, PD and NipponDenso. We offer over 20 Power- Box models equipped with factory plugs, which service several hundred car models of the largest car manufacturers from Europe, USA, Japan and Korea.
WHAT DO YOU GAIN?
When connected to the engine Diesel PowerBOX increases the torque and power by up to 20% in comparison to the serial values. The level of additional power can be controlled by choosing one from the 10(*) programmes offered by the device. The device can also be completely switched off. The modified parameters of the engine do not affect its wearability. One should remember to disconnect the PowerBOX device before visiting a car manufacture’s authorised service centre.
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KeyDongle Login Reader User Manual
From year 1995 in Audi-VW (VAG) cars is used engine immobilizer. The VAG group immobilizer system consists of an immobilizer ECU which controls the recognition of keys and the Engine Management ECU system. Immobilizer is activated when the ignition key is removed and, together with the engine control unit, largely prevents unauthorized starting of the engine. The system uses a transmitter and receiver unit in the ignition key (transponder). Whenever an attempt is made to start the engine, it transmits a new code to the car's electronics. The immobilizing is only cancelled and car motor electronic receives permission to start engine if the key sends a right authorization code.
If the keys are lost or a replacement Engine Management ECU is fitted then the transponder keys will need programming so that the ECU memories recognize the codes. The Login Code required to program new keys for all VAG cars. This code is on the plastic label and usually is connected together with car keys. If you lost or don't know car Login Code you must contact dealer and order it - this can take up to 1 month. Or you can read it with our tools. Our KeyDongle Login Reader can read this secret code from car and can simply adapt additional on new key.
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If the keys are lost or a replacement Engine Management ECU is fitted then the transponder keys will need programming so that the ECU memories recognize the codes. The Login Code required to program new keys for all VAG cars. This code is on the plastic label and usually is connected together with car keys. If you lost or don't know car Login Code you must contact dealer and order it - this can take up to 1 month. Or you can read it with our tools. Our KeyDongle Login Reader can read this secret code from car and can simply adapt additional on new key.
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Sunday, July 13, 2008
Getting Started in the Trofeo Series
The Alfa Romeo Trofeo Series is a “drivers run” series, providing friendly, competitive classic car racing while keeping costs to a realistic level. Four classes of car compete in each race, catering for Alfa Romeo cars from standard road going Alfas, through to fully modified racecars. Each of our races is literally, four races in one. Whether at the front or the rear of the grid, class points are at stake. The competition is keen but clean, with the accent on friendly rivalry and enjoyment of our Alfa Romeos.
While the competition may be keen, the Trofeo series is one of the friendliest and most sociable around. Advice and assistance for fellow competitors is never far away, and the social events are legendary.
A typical season is contested over 10 race meetings, usually three at Pukekohe, two at Manfield and five at Taupo. Two grid start races and if possible, one handicap race are contested at each round. Points are awarded both for class, and for overall championships.
This booklet has been written to help prospective new competitors to the series. We hope that it will help clarify the rules and regulations governing racing, and perhaps answer a few of the questions that any new competitor will naturally need answering.
If you do have any further questions, please ask one of the Trofeo Series committee, or any of the Trofeo Series competitors, we will be happy to help, or if we can’t, we’ll direct you to someone who can. Committee members’ contact details are on the contacts page of the Trofeo Series website.
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While the competition may be keen, the Trofeo series is one of the friendliest and most sociable around. Advice and assistance for fellow competitors is never far away, and the social events are legendary.
A typical season is contested over 10 race meetings, usually three at Pukekohe, two at Manfield and five at Taupo. Two grid start races and if possible, one handicap race are contested at each round. Points are awarded both for class, and for overall championships.
This booklet has been written to help prospective new competitors to the series. We hope that it will help clarify the rules and regulations governing racing, and perhaps answer a few of the questions that any new competitor will naturally need answering.
If you do have any further questions, please ask one of the Trofeo Series committee, or any of the Trofeo Series competitors, we will be happy to help, or if we can’t, we’ll direct you to someone who can. Committee members’ contact details are on the contacts page of the Trofeo Series website.
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2006 MITSUBISHI ECLIPSE GT
The brand new Eclipse is more eye-catching than the old model, but it’s the increased width that is most noticeable. This front-wheel-drive sports car is available in a 2.4-litre four-cylinder GS and 3.8-litre V6 GT.
Interior and trunk
Although the car is low to the ground, it’s relatively easy to access the snug front seats. Depending on the occupant’s size, seat comfort ranges from very good to average. Taller and larger people will find the upper seatback narrow. The driving position is very good, but would be even better if the steering column telescoped in addition to tilting. With the sunroof, headroom can be a bit tight for taller occupants. And there isn’t a lot of footroom on the passenger side. The passenger-side seatback does not automatically return to its initial position after folding it to access the back seat. You need to be very flexible to get into the back seats. The bench is only big enough to accommodate children or very small adults, and only when absolutely necessary. The rear seatback splits 50/50.
The hatch opens wide but the trunk is very small, especially if you've got the subwoofer installed. Trunk liftover is high.
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Interior and trunk
Although the car is low to the ground, it’s relatively easy to access the snug front seats. Depending on the occupant’s size, seat comfort ranges from very good to average. Taller and larger people will find the upper seatback narrow. The driving position is very good, but would be even better if the steering column telescoped in addition to tilting. With the sunroof, headroom can be a bit tight for taller occupants. And there isn’t a lot of footroom on the passenger side. The passenger-side seatback does not automatically return to its initial position after folding it to access the back seat. You need to be very flexible to get into the back seats. The bench is only big enough to accommodate children or very small adults, and only when absolutely necessary. The rear seatback splits 50/50.
The hatch opens wide but the trunk is very small, especially if you've got the subwoofer installed. Trunk liftover is high.
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Saturday, July 12, 2008
Beginner's Guide to Certified Used Vehicles
Ordinarily, buying a used car means buying an unknown quantity. Not so when buying certified used vehicles (CUVs), which come with thoroughly refurbished components and factory-backed warranties. When dealers advertise their factory certified vehicles running “like new,” they really mean it.
Factory certification was pioneered over a decade ago by Mercedes-Benz, and today, nearly every auto company offers a certified pre-owned car program. While each manufacturer has different standards, every “certified pre-owned” or “certified used” car will have undergone a thorough inspection, reconditioning, and repair process, and the like-new vehicle will be backed by a factory warranty for a certain number of years or miles.
Once a car is a candidate for certification, each dealership’s expert technicians will put it through an intensive 100+-point inspection, checking every single component for damage or wear. Any problem components will be fixed by refurbishing, repair, or replacement. Finally, a CPO car will come with a factory-backed warranty, usually covering comprehensive repairs for a few months and powertrain repairs for a longer period. Unlike an individual dealership’s warranty, this manufacturer warranty will be honored at any authorized dealership.
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Factory certification was pioneered over a decade ago by Mercedes-Benz, and today, nearly every auto company offers a certified pre-owned car program. While each manufacturer has different standards, every “certified pre-owned” or “certified used” car will have undergone a thorough inspection, reconditioning, and repair process, and the like-new vehicle will be backed by a factory warranty for a certain number of years or miles.
Once a car is a candidate for certification, each dealership’s expert technicians will put it through an intensive 100+-point inspection, checking every single component for damage or wear. Any problem components will be fixed by refurbishing, repair, or replacement. Finally, a CPO car will come with a factory-backed warranty, usually covering comprehensive repairs for a few months and powertrain repairs for a longer period. Unlike an individual dealership’s warranty, this manufacturer warranty will be honored at any authorized dealership.
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