Preparation Steps for Fuel System Installation
A: Adjust both seats to full forward position with seat backs in full upright position.
B: Disconnect the negative battery cable.
C: Remove the 5 rear interior panels starting with the long piece across the width of the car just beneath the rear glass. Next remove the two flat panels located behind the seats. Next remove the two corner pieces. Lastly, remove the rear center speaker and cover assembly. (The long panel across the width has 3 push lock barbed style securing pins w/one on each end and one in the center) (The 2 flat panels have 4 push lock barbed securing pins each, w/each barb located a couple of inches from each corner of the panels) (The corner sections are held in place with 3 Philips screws which become exposed after the flat panels are removed)
D: Remove the engine cover.
E: Remove the strut brace from the engine compartment.
F: Remove the stock air box assembly.
G: Remove the fuel rail covers, the engine name plate cover, and the intake manifold metal cover.
H: Carefully raise car using an automotive lift. If no automotive lift is available use a floor jack. If using a floor jack raise the vehicle as high as possible to safely get 4 jack stands under the unit body in the appropriate factory recommended positions. The car must be high enough to remove the fuel tank.
I: Remove the rear wheels at this time.
J: Relieve the fuel pressure in the fuel tank by loosening the gas cap.
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Showing posts with label cover. Show all posts
Showing posts with label cover. Show all posts
Wednesday, April 28, 2010
Subaru Impreza P1 2000 Workshop Manual
Conduct the tightening procedures by confirming the turning angle of the crankshaft pulley bolt referring to the gauge indicated on the belt cover. Install V-belt air conditioning compressor drive belt tensioner and V-belt cover. cylinder block : check for cracks and damage visually, especially, inspect important parts by means of red lead check. Check the oil passages for clogging.
Inspect crankcase surface that mates with cylinder head for warping by using a straight edge, and correct by grinding if necessary. Cylinder and piston. Measurement should be performed at a temperature of 20 degree. If piston ring is broken, damaged, or worn, or if its tension is insufficient, or when the piston is replaced, replace piston ring with a new one of the same size as the piston.
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Inspect crankcase surface that mates with cylinder head for warping by using a straight edge, and correct by grinding if necessary. Cylinder and piston. Measurement should be performed at a temperature of 20 degree. If piston ring is broken, damaged, or worn, or if its tension is insufficient, or when the piston is replaced, replace piston ring with a new one of the same size as the piston.
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Tuesday, April 27, 2010
01-06 Acura MDX Cabin Air Filter Replacement for OEM
1. The filter is located behind the glove compartment. Unscrew the 2 screws at the bottom of the glove box cover to loosen the it. Remove glove box and set it aside.
2. Cut the plastic cover along the dotted lines shown and remove it. Dispose off plastic cover, it is no longer needed. This exposes the metal cross bar under it. Locate and remove 2 additional bolts securing bar. Remove and set it aside.
3. The filter access door is now accessible. Pull on the top and bottom tabs to release door. Remove door and set it aside.
TYC #: 800079P
Estimated Time : 25 min.
3. Grab onto handle and slide out old filter. Replace with new TYC filter, ensuring that Air Flow arrow is pointing to the driver’s side.
4. Reinstall in reverse order.
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2. Cut the plastic cover along the dotted lines shown and remove it. Dispose off plastic cover, it is no longer needed. This exposes the metal cross bar under it. Locate and remove 2 additional bolts securing bar. Remove and set it aside.
3. The filter access door is now accessible. Pull on the top and bottom tabs to release door. Remove door and set it aside.
TYC #: 800079P
Estimated Time : 25 min.
3. Grab onto handle and slide out old filter. Replace with new TYC filter, ensuring that Air Flow arrow is pointing to the driver’s side.
4. Reinstall in reverse order.
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Tuesday, July 22, 2008
How To Install A Manual Clutch In Your XR / CRF 50
One of the biggest performance upgrades you can make to your XR or CRF 50 is to replace the stock semi auto clutch with a fully manual clutch. By adding a manual clutch, you can expect your 50 to launch harder out of corners, and you can also expect to get a faster jump off the starting line. For this “How To” article, we opted to use the proven 3- plate manual clutch kit from Honda Trail Bikes. This kit comes with everything you need except for the clutch lever and perch. With a little time and patience, the Trail Bikes clutch is fairly easy to install and is well worth the effort.
To begin the process, drain the engine oil and remove the foot peg mount. Once the oil has been drained, use an 8mm socket to remove the clutch cover bolts and remove the cover.
Use a Phillips head screwdriver (or in impact driver) to remove the 4 screws from the outer clutch cover.
Use a small flat blade screwdriver and open up the tabs on the lock washer. Use a clutch nut tool and a strap wrench to remove the black retaining nut. Remove the clutch assembly.
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To begin the process, drain the engine oil and remove the foot peg mount. Once the oil has been drained, use an 8mm socket to remove the clutch cover bolts and remove the cover.
Use a Phillips head screwdriver (or in impact driver) to remove the 4 screws from the outer clutch cover.
Use a small flat blade screwdriver and open up the tabs on the lock washer. Use a clutch nut tool and a strap wrench to remove the black retaining nut. Remove the clutch assembly.
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Friday, July 18, 2008
BMW Z3 Model 80.v2 Installation Instructions
What’s Included:
1. The Model 80 enclosure bottom
2. The Model 80 vinyl covered enclosure top
3. Alumapro Alusonic 8 subwoofer (optional)
4. Subwoofer grille (optional)
5. Terminal cup
6. Self-adhesive gasket foam
7. Trim cord
8. (8) #10 x ¾” Phillips pan-head screws
9. (4) #14 x 1” hex-head sheet metal screws
10. (4) 1” fender washers
11. (4) 3/8 ” thick rubber washers
12. (12) 1 / 16 ” thick rubber washers
13. (4) #8 x ½” Phillips head machine screws
14. (4) #8 hex nuts
What You Will Need:
1. Power drill
2. 5/16”, 3/16”, 9/64”, and 1/8” drill bits
3. Philips screwdriver
4. 3/8” socket driver or wrench
5. Stiff-blade putty knife or similar flat bladed tool
6.Coping saw or hacksaw blade holder & blade
Remove the old enclosure
1. Carefully remove the subwoofer enclosure cover by first lifting the rear edge of the cover and then lifting entire cover straight up. The cover should lift out with minimal effort, but may require some additional effort to release the rear snaps. Take your time and be careful when removing the sub lid! The easiest thing to do is to insert a flat, metal, handled-tool like a stiff putty knife and carefully pry each side up from the back.
2. Remove the 4 mounting screws (2) from the existing speaker enclosure (1).
3. Remove the old enclosure (1) by pulling upwards. Disconnect the wiring harness connector (2) and remove the entire enclosure from vehicle.
4. Using a socket wrench, loosen and remove the brackets (1) that the original factory enclosure was attached to. With a knife, diagonal flush cutters or small saw, carefully trim away the 4 plastic extrusions (2).
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1. The Model 80 enclosure bottom
2. The Model 80 vinyl covered enclosure top
3. Alumapro Alusonic 8 subwoofer (optional)
4. Subwoofer grille (optional)
5. Terminal cup
6. Self-adhesive gasket foam
7. Trim cord
8. (8) #10 x ¾” Phillips pan-head screws
9. (4) #14 x 1” hex-head sheet metal screws
10. (4) 1” fender washers
11. (4) 3/8 ” thick rubber washers
12. (12) 1 / 16 ” thick rubber washers
13. (4) #8 x ½” Phillips head machine screws
14. (4) #8 hex nuts
What You Will Need:
1. Power drill
2. 5/16”, 3/16”, 9/64”, and 1/8” drill bits
3. Philips screwdriver
4. 3/8” socket driver or wrench
5. Stiff-blade putty knife or similar flat bladed tool
6.Coping saw or hacksaw blade holder & blade
Remove the old enclosure
1. Carefully remove the subwoofer enclosure cover by first lifting the rear edge of the cover and then lifting entire cover straight up. The cover should lift out with minimal effort, but may require some additional effort to release the rear snaps. Take your time and be careful when removing the sub lid! The easiest thing to do is to insert a flat, metal, handled-tool like a stiff putty knife and carefully pry each side up from the back.
2. Remove the 4 mounting screws (2) from the existing speaker enclosure (1).
3. Remove the old enclosure (1) by pulling upwards. Disconnect the wiring harness connector (2) and remove the entire enclosure from vehicle.
4. Using a socket wrench, loosen and remove the brackets (1) that the original factory enclosure was attached to. With a knife, diagonal flush cutters or small saw, carefully trim away the 4 plastic extrusions (2).
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