The COMP Cams® Acura/Honda B-Series VTEC valve spring set (Fig. A) utilizes dual springs on the intake side and a single spring on the exhaust side. Below are the information and diagrams to ensure correct installation.
Installation Instructions:
Dual Intake Spring
Installed Height: 60lbs at 1.375
Open Height: 220 lbs at .875
Coil Bind Height: .815
Spring Rate: 300 lbs per inch
Single Exhaust Spring
Installed Height: 43 lbs at 1.375
Open Height: 148 lbs at .875
Coil Bind Height: .815
Spring Rate: 210 lbs per inch
Warnings and maintenance information! It is important to orientate the outer valve spring of the intake and exhaust (See Fig. B & C) with the *tightly wound coils on the bottom. THE ORIENTATION OF THE INNER INTAKE SPRING IS NOT CRITICAL.
*Note: To figure out which end is the tightly wound end start at the end of the coil. Follow it around 180° (See Fig. D) then look at the distance between the two coils. Now follow the same steps from the other end of the spring. Whichever end is closest together needs to be on the bottom.
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Showing posts with label Acura. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Acura. Show all posts
Wednesday, May 5, 2010
Monday, May 3, 2010
Acura GSR Whirlwind Intake Manifold Instructions
Removal
1. Relieve the fuel pressure in the system by loosening the banjo bolt on the top of the fuel filter. Disconnect the fuel line from the fuel rail. It is a good idea to replace the washers. Disconnect the fuel harness holder and unbolt. Disconnect the hoses from the fuel pressure regulator (FPR).
2. Disconnect intake hose/pipe from throttle body. Disconnect all hoses leading to the throttle body and intake manifold. Disconnect throttle cable bracket on manifold and throttle cable from throttle body. Disconnect the cables to the the throttle position sensor (TPS) and the map sensor on the throttle body.
3. Unbolt two lower intake manifold bolts that secure manifold to engine block. This bracket willl still be used to accommodate the heater bypass pipe. Unbolt manifold from engine block. Remove manifold, throttle body, and fuel rail as one unit.
4. Remove the intake air bypass (IAB) vacuum tank, check valve and control solenoid unit. Due to the different design of your new manifold, these parts will no longer be used. Do not remove the FPR hose. This hose will be used in the re-installation process.
5. Unbolt throttle body from manifold. Inspect gasket and replace if needed. Unscrew throttle body studs from flange of manifold. Remove fuel rail assembly from manifold.
6. From original manifold, unbolt and remove idle air control valve (IAC), intake air temperature valve (IAT), and o-rings. Replace o-rings if needed. Remove fuel rail studs from original manifold.
Assembly
1. Screw throttle body studs and fuel rail studs removed from original manifold into the new Power+Plus Manifold.
2. Bolt throttle body to new manifold. When positioning throttle body gasket, the U-shaped portion is in top left corner of flange.
3. Bolt idle air control valve, intake air temperature valve with o-rings to new manifold. Install fuel rail, making sure o-rings are positioned correctly to prevent fuel leakage.
4. Position new manifold assembly with throttle body and fuel rail back on the cylinder head over the studs, making sure new intake gasket is properly positioned. Connect the EVAP purge control solenoid valve. Due to the new intake manifold design, there is no mounting location for for the EVAP purge control solenoid valve. It can be zip-tied to a secure location. For 1994-’95 vehicles, one hose end will plug into the charcoal canister and the other hose end will plug into the small vacuum fitting located onthe rear of the new intake manifold. For 1996-01 vehicles. see notes below.
5. Bolt on the fuel injector harness holder and hoses, connecting the harness to the injectors. Connect TPS, map sensor, and fuel line. The FPR hose will connect to the small vacuum fitting that was originally on the front of the manifold but is now on the back. Tighten banjo bolt on top of fuel filter.
6. Use the new supplied throttle cable bracket to hook up stock throttle cable to the throttle body.
7. Connect battery and replace coolant. Cap off any unused vacuum tubes with vacuum caps.
8. Start engine, check for leaks. After engine is brought to operating temperature, shut it off and check that all nuts and bolts are tight. Retighten manifold bolts after 500 miles.
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1. Relieve the fuel pressure in the system by loosening the banjo bolt on the top of the fuel filter. Disconnect the fuel line from the fuel rail. It is a good idea to replace the washers. Disconnect the fuel harness holder and unbolt. Disconnect the hoses from the fuel pressure regulator (FPR).
2. Disconnect intake hose/pipe from throttle body. Disconnect all hoses leading to the throttle body and intake manifold. Disconnect throttle cable bracket on manifold and throttle cable from throttle body. Disconnect the cables to the the throttle position sensor (TPS) and the map sensor on the throttle body.
3. Unbolt two lower intake manifold bolts that secure manifold to engine block. This bracket willl still be used to accommodate the heater bypass pipe. Unbolt manifold from engine block. Remove manifold, throttle body, and fuel rail as one unit.
4. Remove the intake air bypass (IAB) vacuum tank, check valve and control solenoid unit. Due to the different design of your new manifold, these parts will no longer be used. Do not remove the FPR hose. This hose will be used in the re-installation process.
5. Unbolt throttle body from manifold. Inspect gasket and replace if needed. Unscrew throttle body studs from flange of manifold. Remove fuel rail assembly from manifold.
6. From original manifold, unbolt and remove idle air control valve (IAC), intake air temperature valve (IAT), and o-rings. Replace o-rings if needed. Remove fuel rail studs from original manifold.
Assembly
1. Screw throttle body studs and fuel rail studs removed from original manifold into the new Power+Plus Manifold.
2. Bolt throttle body to new manifold. When positioning throttle body gasket, the U-shaped portion is in top left corner of flange.
3. Bolt idle air control valve, intake air temperature valve with o-rings to new manifold. Install fuel rail, making sure o-rings are positioned correctly to prevent fuel leakage.
4. Position new manifold assembly with throttle body and fuel rail back on the cylinder head over the studs, making sure new intake gasket is properly positioned. Connect the EVAP purge control solenoid valve. Due to the new intake manifold design, there is no mounting location for for the EVAP purge control solenoid valve. It can be zip-tied to a secure location. For 1994-’95 vehicles, one hose end will plug into the charcoal canister and the other hose end will plug into the small vacuum fitting located onthe rear of the new intake manifold. For 1996-01 vehicles. see notes below.
5. Bolt on the fuel injector harness holder and hoses, connecting the harness to the injectors. Connect TPS, map sensor, and fuel line. The FPR hose will connect to the small vacuum fitting that was originally on the front of the manifold but is now on the back. Tighten banjo bolt on top of fuel filter.
6. Use the new supplied throttle cable bracket to hook up stock throttle cable to the throttle body.
7. Connect battery and replace coolant. Cap off any unused vacuum tubes with vacuum caps.
8. Start engine, check for leaks. After engine is brought to operating temperature, shut it off and check that all nuts and bolts are tight. Retighten manifold bolts after 500 miles.
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Wednesday, April 28, 2010
BOOSTZILA Super Charging System for the Acura/Honda NSX Installation
Preparation Steps for Fuel System Installation
A: Adjust both seats to full forward position with seat backs in full upright position.
B: Disconnect the negative battery cable.
C: Remove the 5 rear interior panels starting with the long piece across the width of the car just beneath the rear glass. Next remove the two flat panels located behind the seats. Next remove the two corner pieces. Lastly, remove the rear center speaker and cover assembly. (The long panel across the width has 3 push lock barbed style securing pins w/one on each end and one in the center) (The 2 flat panels have 4 push lock barbed securing pins each, w/each barb located a couple of inches from each corner of the panels) (The corner sections are held in place with 3 Philips screws which become exposed after the flat panels are removed)
D: Remove the engine cover.
E: Remove the strut brace from the engine compartment.
F: Remove the stock air box assembly.
G: Remove the fuel rail covers, the engine name plate cover, and the intake manifold metal cover.
H: Carefully raise car using an automotive lift. If no automotive lift is available use a floor jack. If using a floor jack raise the vehicle as high as possible to safely get 4 jack stands under the unit body in the appropriate factory recommended positions. The car must be high enough to remove the fuel tank.
I: Remove the rear wheels at this time.
J: Relieve the fuel pressure in the fuel tank by loosening the gas cap.
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A: Adjust both seats to full forward position with seat backs in full upright position.
B: Disconnect the negative battery cable.
C: Remove the 5 rear interior panels starting with the long piece across the width of the car just beneath the rear glass. Next remove the two flat panels located behind the seats. Next remove the two corner pieces. Lastly, remove the rear center speaker and cover assembly. (The long panel across the width has 3 push lock barbed style securing pins w/one on each end and one in the center) (The 2 flat panels have 4 push lock barbed securing pins each, w/each barb located a couple of inches from each corner of the panels) (The corner sections are held in place with 3 Philips screws which become exposed after the flat panels are removed)
D: Remove the engine cover.
E: Remove the strut brace from the engine compartment.
F: Remove the stock air box assembly.
G: Remove the fuel rail covers, the engine name plate cover, and the intake manifold metal cover.
H: Carefully raise car using an automotive lift. If no automotive lift is available use a floor jack. If using a floor jack raise the vehicle as high as possible to safely get 4 jack stands under the unit body in the appropriate factory recommended positions. The car must be high enough to remove the fuel tank.
I: Remove the rear wheels at this time.
J: Relieve the fuel pressure in the fuel tank by loosening the gas cap.
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Tuesday, April 27, 2010
01-06 Acura MDX Cabin Air Filter Replacement for OEM
1. The filter is located behind the glove compartment. Unscrew the 2 screws at the bottom of the glove box cover to loosen the it. Remove glove box and set it aside.
2. Cut the plastic cover along the dotted lines shown and remove it. Dispose off plastic cover, it is no longer needed. This exposes the metal cross bar under it. Locate and remove 2 additional bolts securing bar. Remove and set it aside.
3. The filter access door is now accessible. Pull on the top and bottom tabs to release door. Remove door and set it aside.
TYC #: 800079P
Estimated Time : 25 min.
3. Grab onto handle and slide out old filter. Replace with new TYC filter, ensuring that Air Flow arrow is pointing to the driver’s side.
4. Reinstall in reverse order.
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2. Cut the plastic cover along the dotted lines shown and remove it. Dispose off plastic cover, it is no longer needed. This exposes the metal cross bar under it. Locate and remove 2 additional bolts securing bar. Remove and set it aside.
3. The filter access door is now accessible. Pull on the top and bottom tabs to release door. Remove door and set it aside.
TYC #: 800079P
Estimated Time : 25 min.
3. Grab onto handle and slide out old filter. Replace with new TYC filter, ensuring that Air Flow arrow is pointing to the driver’s side.
4. Reinstall in reverse order.
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