I. Preparing the Vehicle
1. Elevate the vehicle (Figure 1) and secure the body with jack stands.
2. Remove the front wheels (Figure 2).
II. Strut Removal
1. Remove left and right sway bar retaining bolts and save for reinstallation (Figure 3).
2. Remove the ABS line retaining clamps from the strut and discard
3. Remove the lower strut mounting bolt and save for later use (Figure 6).
4. Remove the upper strut mounting nut and discard, but retain the upper mounting bracket (Figure 7).
NOTE: This is located inside the engine compartment above the strut pocket.
5. Remove the O.E.M. strut from the vehicle (Figure 8).
6. Repeat steps 1-5 for the other side of the vehicle.
III. Preparing the Upper Strut Mounting Bracket
1. Using a spring compressor for safety, remove the nut from the upper strut mount and discard (Figure 9).
2. Remove the upper strut mount and bearing from the strut and retain for later use (Figure 10).
Installing the Air Lines
NOTE: If you will be installing an air management system with this kit, follow the instructions below. If you will not be installing an air management system at this time, continue to section V.
1. Refer to the air management system instruction manual for directions on how to install your particular system.
2. Secure the air lines underneath the vehicle away from heat sources.
NOTE: It may be helpful to install the strut before securing the air lines. Refer to section V for strut installation instructions.
NOTE: It may be helpful to secure the air lines using existing brake line or ABS mounts.
Download
Showing posts with label mounting bolt. Show all posts
Showing posts with label mounting bolt. Show all posts
Sunday, May 2, 2010
Tuesday, April 27, 2010
ECT Display Driver – Installation for AP2 Module
The ECT Display Driver is a small module with a removable wire harness that mounts behind the driver’s foot well cover. All wiring connections are near the ECM and only 4 wires are needed for basic operation:
• +5v power from the ECM (T-tap)
• Ground – available at ECM mounting bolt
• ECT sensor wire (T-tap at ECM)
• Dash temperature gauge wire (must cut at ECM)
If you want to use the optional Alarm Output feature 3 more wires are needed:
• Ground (must be run separate from the module’s power ground)
• Module output (negative) to your alarm device (sounder or indicator light, not included)
• +12v ignition or accessory power wired directly to your alarm device
Installation Details: refer to the photos and wiring diagram at the end of this manual
1. Remove the driver’s side doorsill trim and the driver’s foot well trim. (if you don’t know how to do this you probably shouldn’t be doing this modification)
2. Locate the connectors and wires you will be using, see photos at the end of this manual.
a. Temperature gauge wire (Yellow/Green) – Easily seen at the top left of connector A on the ECM.
b. Power wire for +5v (Yellow/Blue) – This is on the rear-most row of wires on connector C, in the ‘middle’ section of the connector. You will have to remove connector C from the ECM to locate this wire
c. ECT Sensor wire (Red/White) – This is also on the rear-most row of wires on connector C, in the ‘middle’ section of the connector.
3. Attach crimp connectors to the ECM wires as detailed below.
a. Using a pair of pliers, clamp one of the red T-taps around the Yellow/Blue wire in connector C, making sure the wire goes into the metal slot of the T-tap. If you have strong fingers you can squeeze the T-tap on the wire to hold it temporarily, then use the pliers to clamp it shut. Or, you can position the T-tap in the pliers’ jaw, then clamp it on the wire.
b. Crimp another T-tap around the Red/White wire in connector C.
c. Now cut the Yellow/Green wire a few inches away from the ECM and strip about ΕΎ” of insulation from each end.
d. Using a crimp tool, crimp a female spade connector on the end of the Yellow/Green wire that comes from the ECM.
e. Next crimp a male spade connector on the other end of the Yellow/Green wire (the end going into the wire bundle).
f. Note that the ends of the Yellow/Green wire have opposite connectors. If you ever have to remove the ECT Module you simply plug these connectors together and the temperature gauge will work like normal.
Download
• +5v power from the ECM (T-tap)
• Ground – available at ECM mounting bolt
• ECT sensor wire (T-tap at ECM)
• Dash temperature gauge wire (must cut at ECM)
If you want to use the optional Alarm Output feature 3 more wires are needed:
• Ground (must be run separate from the module’s power ground)
• Module output (negative) to your alarm device (sounder or indicator light, not included)
• +12v ignition or accessory power wired directly to your alarm device
Installation Details: refer to the photos and wiring diagram at the end of this manual
1. Remove the driver’s side doorsill trim and the driver’s foot well trim. (if you don’t know how to do this you probably shouldn’t be doing this modification)
2. Locate the connectors and wires you will be using, see photos at the end of this manual.
a. Temperature gauge wire (Yellow/Green) – Easily seen at the top left of connector A on the ECM.
b. Power wire for +5v (Yellow/Blue) – This is on the rear-most row of wires on connector C, in the ‘middle’ section of the connector. You will have to remove connector C from the ECM to locate this wire
c. ECT Sensor wire (Red/White) – This is also on the rear-most row of wires on connector C, in the ‘middle’ section of the connector.
3. Attach crimp connectors to the ECM wires as detailed below.
a. Using a pair of pliers, clamp one of the red T-taps around the Yellow/Blue wire in connector C, making sure the wire goes into the metal slot of the T-tap. If you have strong fingers you can squeeze the T-tap on the wire to hold it temporarily, then use the pliers to clamp it shut. Or, you can position the T-tap in the pliers’ jaw, then clamp it on the wire.
b. Crimp another T-tap around the Red/White wire in connector C.
c. Now cut the Yellow/Green wire a few inches away from the ECM and strip about ΕΎ” of insulation from each end.
d. Using a crimp tool, crimp a female spade connector on the end of the Yellow/Green wire that comes from the ECM.
e. Next crimp a male spade connector on the other end of the Yellow/Green wire (the end going into the wire bundle).
f. Note that the ends of the Yellow/Green wire have opposite connectors. If you ever have to remove the ECT Module you simply plug these connectors together and the temperature gauge will work like normal.
Download
Wednesday, April 7, 2010
2003-2004 Honda Accord 4-Cyl. 2.4L Short Ram Intake System Installation Instructions
Getting Started
a) Make sure vehicle is parked on a level surface.
b) Set parking brake. Install rear wheel chocks.
c) If the engine has run with in the past two hours let it cool down.
d) Jack the front of the vehicle and support using properly rated jack stands.
e) Remove the left front wheel.
Removal of the Stock Air Intake System
a) Loosen the clamp around the throttle body using
a 5.5mm socket or screwdriver. Pull the Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor out of the intake tube by loosening the spring loaded clamp.
b) Unplug the breather tube from the fitting underneath the intake manifold
c) Remove the air box mounting bolt shown in the picture.
d) Remove the other air box mounting shown in the picture.
e) Carefully remove the air box assembly from the engine bay.
f) Remove the two fasteners holding the plastic cover in front of the battery.
g) Pull upward on the plastic cover to remove the resonator box intake tube.
h) From inside the driver-side wheel well, remove the fastener shown in the picture.
i) From underneath the vehicle, remove the fasteners shown in the picture.
j) Tuck the splash guard out of the way behind the brake rotor.
k) Remove the resonator mounting bolt shown in the picture.
l) Remove the screw holding the corner of the front bumper cover.
Download
a) Make sure vehicle is parked on a level surface.
b) Set parking brake. Install rear wheel chocks.
c) If the engine has run with in the past two hours let it cool down.
d) Jack the front of the vehicle and support using properly rated jack stands.
e) Remove the left front wheel.
Removal of the Stock Air Intake System
a) Loosen the clamp around the throttle body using
a 5.5mm socket or screwdriver. Pull the Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor out of the intake tube by loosening the spring loaded clamp.
b) Unplug the breather tube from the fitting underneath the intake manifold
c) Remove the air box mounting bolt shown in the picture.
d) Remove the other air box mounting shown in the picture.
e) Carefully remove the air box assembly from the engine bay.
f) Remove the two fasteners holding the plastic cover in front of the battery.
g) Pull upward on the plastic cover to remove the resonator box intake tube.
h) From inside the driver-side wheel well, remove the fastener shown in the picture.
i) From underneath the vehicle, remove the fasteners shown in the picture.
j) Tuck the splash guard out of the way behind the brake rotor.
k) Remove the resonator mounting bolt shown in the picture.
l) Remove the screw holding the corner of the front bumper cover.
Download
Sunday, July 13, 2008
2008+ Mitsubishi Lancer QuickLIFT Installation Guide
Remove all items from the packing tube. You should have the following before beginning:
* (2) Gas springs (RT-QL-170-A6A) - Be sure to cycle them a few times before installing.
* (4) #2-3/16" Multi-grip rivets (used on hood brackets)
* (2) ball-studs and washers each with a locking nut.
* (2) mounting brackets
* Printed Color Instructions
* Gas Spring locking clips - (Already installed in the gas spring ball-ends - Remove before assembly)
Please gather the following tools before you begin the installation:
* Power Drill
* 3/16", indexed #11 & 5/16" drill bits
* Fine permanent marker or felt tip pen
* Tape measure or ruler
* Masking tape
* Hammer & center punch
* Rivet gun,capable of 3/16" rivets (most brands can handle this size)
Note: Only use the rivets supplied in the QuickLIFT system.
A. Open and prop your hood.
B. Standing on the driver’s side in the middle of the engine compartment,examine the area on the inner fender lip.
Note the overhanging fender mounting bolt. The centerline of this bolt should be used to align the ball-stud mounting bracket (offset 3/8”to the left or front of the vehicle). Back of bracket up against lip.
C. Place the bracket on the flat surface aligning either the left edge of the bracket with the metal shown below,or using the measurement shown to the right (centerlines offset by 3/8”).
Download
* (2) Gas springs (RT-QL-170-A6A) - Be sure to cycle them a few times before installing.
* (4) #2-3/16" Multi-grip rivets (used on hood brackets)
* (2) ball-studs and washers each with a locking nut.
* (2) mounting brackets
* Printed Color Instructions
* Gas Spring locking clips - (Already installed in the gas spring ball-ends - Remove before assembly)
Please gather the following tools before you begin the installation:
* Power Drill
* 3/16", indexed #11 & 5/16" drill bits
* Fine permanent marker or felt tip pen
* Tape measure or ruler
* Masking tape
* Hammer & center punch
* Rivet gun,capable of 3/16" rivets (most brands can handle this size)
Note: Only use the rivets supplied in the QuickLIFT system.
A. Open and prop your hood.
B. Standing on the driver’s side in the middle of the engine compartment,examine the area on the inner fender lip.
Note the overhanging fender mounting bolt. The centerline of this bolt should be used to align the ball-stud mounting bracket (offset 3/8”to the left or front of the vehicle). Back of bracket up against lip.
C. Place the bracket on the flat surface aligning either the left edge of the bracket with the metal shown below,or using the measurement shown to the right (centerlines offset by 3/8”).
Download
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)