This handout is provided to guide you through the steps necessary to upgrade your vehicle with one of our performance chips. Also be aware that APR is only a phone call away should you every have any questions or concerns pertaining to any APR products.
Step 1: Park Car.
Insure car is off and key is out of ignition. Engage the parking brake. (Optional): Remove Battery Cable. Caution! Before disconnecting the battery, determine the correct coding for the anti-theft radio.
Step 2: Remove Windshield Wipers.
Remove Windshield Wipers to ease removal and installation of ECM.
Use a flat head screwdriver to remove the plastic cover from the wiper arm. Remove the wiper arms by unbolting the 13mm nut securing the wiper arms. After the nut is removed the wiper arm must be wiggled in order to remove the arm from the mount. Be sure to note the location of the wiper arm for re-instillation.
Repeat this procedure for both sides.
Step 3: Remove Factory Weather-Stripping.
Step 4: Raise Plastic Lid Over Pollen Filter.
Step 5: Remove Plastic Bracket, noting location of tabs
Step 6: Pull tab on wiring harness to the left, and remove left wiring harness.
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Showing posts with label plastic. Show all posts
Showing posts with label plastic. Show all posts
Tuesday, May 4, 2010
Tuesday, April 27, 2010
Kawasaki Teryx 750 ATV Clutch Kit Instructions
The instructions we provide are guidelines only and will not thoroughly explain how to set up a racing vehicle. Claims of performance gains, durability, etc. are based on the experience of TEAM Industries and others and do not constitute a guarantee of similar performance in every application. We believe that the contents and specifications within this set of instructions are correct. We assume no liability for any errors in model applications. We reserve the right to change specifications, product descriptions, product quality and application at any time without notice.
Make sure your current clutches are free of fatigue, cracks, wear, etc. TEAM clutch components are produced with high quality materials and a controlled procedure. Never alter TEAM Industries clutch components.
1. Remove both seats from the vehicle. Next, remove the passenger side lower body panel. There is a mixture of Philips head screws and also plastic push pin fasteners that have to be removed.
2. With the side panel off, the next item to remove is the plastic housing over the engine. These are all “push in” style plastic clips that hold it in place. Once all the pins are out, you can slide the housing off and set it aside.
3. Now the lower long plastic panel under the seat has to be removed (again mainly plastic push clips to remove). Once they are all out, carefully remove and set aside.
4. Next, remove the fuel tank. Remove the two lines on the top of the tank. There are two straps that hold the tank in place. Remove the bolt from each strap, remove the straps, and lift the fuel tank out.
5. Now the bracket that holds the fuel pump on has to be removed. There are two bolts here to take out. Once this is done, mark the two wires to the coil and disconnect them. Set the bracket out of the way.
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Make sure your current clutches are free of fatigue, cracks, wear, etc. TEAM clutch components are produced with high quality materials and a controlled procedure. Never alter TEAM Industries clutch components.
1. Remove both seats from the vehicle. Next, remove the passenger side lower body panel. There is a mixture of Philips head screws and also plastic push pin fasteners that have to be removed.
2. With the side panel off, the next item to remove is the plastic housing over the engine. These are all “push in” style plastic clips that hold it in place. Once all the pins are out, you can slide the housing off and set it aside.
3. Now the lower long plastic panel under the seat has to be removed (again mainly plastic push clips to remove). Once they are all out, carefully remove and set aside.
4. Next, remove the fuel tank. Remove the two lines on the top of the tank. There are two straps that hold the tank in place. Remove the bolt from each strap, remove the straps, and lift the fuel tank out.
5. Now the bracket that holds the fuel pump on has to be removed. There are two bolts here to take out. Once this is done, mark the two wires to the coil and disconnect them. Set the bracket out of the way.
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Sunday, April 11, 2010
1998-2002 Honda Accord 4 Cyl. Cold Air System Installation
The AEM Cold Air System differs from all others in several ways. We take the inlet air from outside of the engine compartment where the inlet air is considerably cooler than the hot under hood air. The cooler inlet air temperature translates to more power during the combustion process because cool air is denser than warm air. AEM has conducted extensive inlet-air temperature studies and we have seen temperature reductions of up to 50 degrees by pulling air from outside of the engine compartment. Because of the increased airflow and reduced inlet temperature, the air-mass flow to the engine increases, this translates to more power.
Our system is constructed of lightweight aluminum and then painted with a zirconia based powder coat for superior heat insulating characteristics. The aluminum will not crack in extended use like plastic and it is actually lighter than plastic. For each engine, we match the tube’s diameter and length to promote power over a broad rpm range. Unlike the plastic systems that use a continually diverging cross section, we take advantage of the acoustical energy in the duct to promote cylinder filling during the intake valve-opening event.
Read and understand these instructions BEFORE attempting to install this product.
1. Make sure vehicle is parked on a level surface.
2. Set parking brake.
3. Disconnect negative battery terminal.
4. If engine has run within the past two hours let it cool down.
5. The following items will be removed from the vehicle.
(a) The OE inlet tube
(b) The air filter case
(c) Intake air noise resonators.
6. Removal of intake air tube.
(a) Disconnect the breather hose from the intake tube. The hose consists of a section of metal tubing between the intake tube and the cam cover.
7. Removal of air filter case.
(a) Remove the two mounting bolts for the air filter case and lift the case out.
8. Preparing the vehicle to accept the Cold Air System.
(a) From underneath the vehicle, remove the engine splash shield and the front left plastic fender liner.
i) The front plastic under-tray can be removed entirely for installation of the Cold Air System and the fender liner can be temporarily folded such that it does not interfere with the installation.
(b) Remove the bolts holding the lower resonator assembly and pull the assembly out from underneath the vehicle.
(c) Remove the two bolts securing the diagonal fender brace that is mounted between the battery and the passenger-side fender.
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Our system is constructed of lightweight aluminum and then painted with a zirconia based powder coat for superior heat insulating characteristics. The aluminum will not crack in extended use like plastic and it is actually lighter than plastic. For each engine, we match the tube’s diameter and length to promote power over a broad rpm range. Unlike the plastic systems that use a continually diverging cross section, we take advantage of the acoustical energy in the duct to promote cylinder filling during the intake valve-opening event.
Read and understand these instructions BEFORE attempting to install this product.
1. Make sure vehicle is parked on a level surface.
2. Set parking brake.
3. Disconnect negative battery terminal.
4. If engine has run within the past two hours let it cool down.
5. The following items will be removed from the vehicle.
(a) The OE inlet tube
(b) The air filter case
(c) Intake air noise resonators.
6. Removal of intake air tube.
(a) Disconnect the breather hose from the intake tube. The hose consists of a section of metal tubing between the intake tube and the cam cover.
7. Removal of air filter case.
(a) Remove the two mounting bolts for the air filter case and lift the case out.
8. Preparing the vehicle to accept the Cold Air System.
(a) From underneath the vehicle, remove the engine splash shield and the front left plastic fender liner.
i) The front plastic under-tray can be removed entirely for installation of the Cold Air System and the fender liner can be temporarily folded such that it does not interfere with the installation.
(b) Remove the bolts holding the lower resonator assembly and pull the assembly out from underneath the vehicle.
(c) Remove the two bolts securing the diagonal fender brace that is mounted between the battery and the passenger-side fender.
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Monday, April 5, 2010
2006-up Honda Civic Si TWM Performance Shift Boot Installation Manual
Begin the installation by parking on a flat surface, as you may have to engage and disengage the hand brake and shift from gears to neutral. If you cannot do so and are obliged to install the shift boot on a slightly inclined surface, place wooden blocks in front or behind the wheels to prevent the car from moving while you’re working.
1. Pull the emergency brake up to prevent the car from moving while you work. Looking down at the shift knob, turn the jam nut beneath the shift knob clockwise using a 14 mm wrench to loosen it.
2. Remove the shift knob by rotating it counter clock-wise and remove the nut from the shifter shaft.
3. Pull up on the shifter bezel to remove it with the stock shift boot attached.
4. Remove the four torx screws on the bottom of the bezel. Pull out the shift boot and the plastic ring attached to the base of the boot.
5. Remove the staples holding the shift boot to the plastic ring. A small flat head screwdriver or needle nose pliers can be used to pry the staples out.
6. Remove the shift boot from the plastic ring.
7. Turn the shift boot inside out. With wire cutters or scissors snip the zip-tie at the top of the shift boot and discard the zip tie.
8. With the white zip-tie removed you will now be able to remove the black plastic retainer ring.
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1. Pull the emergency brake up to prevent the car from moving while you work. Looking down at the shift knob, turn the jam nut beneath the shift knob clockwise using a 14 mm wrench to loosen it.
2. Remove the shift knob by rotating it counter clock-wise and remove the nut from the shifter shaft.
3. Pull up on the shifter bezel to remove it with the stock shift boot attached.
4. Remove the four torx screws on the bottom of the bezel. Pull out the shift boot and the plastic ring attached to the base of the boot.
5. Remove the staples holding the shift boot to the plastic ring. A small flat head screwdriver or needle nose pliers can be used to pry the staples out.
6. Remove the shift boot from the plastic ring.
7. Turn the shift boot inside out. With wire cutters or scissors snip the zip-tie at the top of the shift boot and discard the zip tie.
8. With the white zip-tie removed you will now be able to remove the black plastic retainer ring.
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2007-08 Honda Fit M/T & A/T Base Injector Upgrade Installation Manual
SECTION 1: PRE-INSTALLATION PRECAUTIONS:
Step 1: Remove the negative battery cable. Before removing the battery cable, verify that you have the “anti theft” radio code. It is usually located in your owner’s manual or on the side of the glove compartment. If you cannot find the radio code, take your car to your local Honda dealer so that they can retrieve the code through the Honda computer network.
SECTION 2: INJECTOR INSTALLATION
Step 2: Remove the plastic cosmetic cover from the intake manifold.
Step 3: Remove the five 12mm headed bolts/nuts that hold the plastic upper intake manifold to the aluminum lower manifold. Be careful when these two manifolds are not bolted together. Errant bolts/nuts or debris could fall into the intake manifold and cause severe engine damage. It is recommended that you cover the lower intake runners with protective tape or a shop towel.
Step 4: Remove the gas cap and remove any residual pressure from the fuel tank. Always use safety glasses while performing this operation.
Step 5: Remove the plastic safety cover from the fuel line/fuel rail connector. Push the safety clips from each side of the fuel line and gently remove the fuel line from the fuel rail. Have a shop towel ready for any high pressure residual fuel that might spray from the fuel rail.
Step 6: Unbolt the 10mm headed bolt that holds the fuel rail security tab to the cylinder head. It is located under the throttle body.
Step 7: Remove the fuel injector wiring harness plastic cover from the metal tabs on the fuel rail. Remove the fuel injector wiring clips from the injectors.
Step 8: Remove the two 10mm flanged nuts from the top of the fuel rail mounting studs.
Step 9: Lift the fuel rail from the engine compartment.
Step 10: Remove the injector retaining clips from the injector and the fuel rail one clip at a time. Remove and reinstall one injector at a time so that you don’t forget how they are installed.
Step 11: There are metal tabs on the fuel rail that the plastic housing was clipped into. These metal tabs will make reinstalling the fuel rail with the taller RC injectors difficult. If you prefer, you can cut the tabs off the rail with a pair of “tin snips.”If you want to leave the metal tabs in place, it will require you to insert the injectors into the cylinder head first before installing the fuel rail onto the injectors, and it will be more difficult. Listed below is a general guideline to fuel injector installation with the tabs removed.
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Step 1: Remove the negative battery cable. Before removing the battery cable, verify that you have the “anti theft” radio code. It is usually located in your owner’s manual or on the side of the glove compartment. If you cannot find the radio code, take your car to your local Honda dealer so that they can retrieve the code through the Honda computer network.
SECTION 2: INJECTOR INSTALLATION
Step 2: Remove the plastic cosmetic cover from the intake manifold.
Step 3: Remove the five 12mm headed bolts/nuts that hold the plastic upper intake manifold to the aluminum lower manifold. Be careful when these two manifolds are not bolted together. Errant bolts/nuts or debris could fall into the intake manifold and cause severe engine damage. It is recommended that you cover the lower intake runners with protective tape or a shop towel.
Step 4: Remove the gas cap and remove any residual pressure from the fuel tank. Always use safety glasses while performing this operation.
Step 5: Remove the plastic safety cover from the fuel line/fuel rail connector. Push the safety clips from each side of the fuel line and gently remove the fuel line from the fuel rail. Have a shop towel ready for any high pressure residual fuel that might spray from the fuel rail.
Step 6: Unbolt the 10mm headed bolt that holds the fuel rail security tab to the cylinder head. It is located under the throttle body.
Step 7: Remove the fuel injector wiring harness plastic cover from the metal tabs on the fuel rail. Remove the fuel injector wiring clips from the injectors.
Step 8: Remove the two 10mm flanged nuts from the top of the fuel rail mounting studs.
Step 9: Lift the fuel rail from the engine compartment.
Step 10: Remove the injector retaining clips from the injector and the fuel rail one clip at a time. Remove and reinstall one injector at a time so that you don’t forget how they are installed.
Step 11: There are metal tabs on the fuel rail that the plastic housing was clipped into. These metal tabs will make reinstalling the fuel rail with the taller RC injectors difficult. If you prefer, you can cut the tabs off the rail with a pair of “tin snips.”If you want to leave the metal tabs in place, it will require you to insert the injectors into the cylinder head first before installing the fuel rail onto the injectors, and it will be more difficult. Listed below is a general guideline to fuel injector installation with the tabs removed.
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