The New PA11-HON2Y interface connects iPod products directly to Honda/Acura audio system. Its on-board software translates the factory radios external CD Changer controls functions into commands that the iPod understands. This interface enables the iPod to provide the following benefits:
1. Direct connection of the iPod to Honda vehicle audio system for optimum sound quality
2. Two playback modes:
Hybrid mode: select songs and playlist on the iPod using the CD Changer buttons on the radio
Direct Mode: Search and select songs directly on the iPod using the clickwheel and select button on the radio.
3. Maintain current playlist when switching from portable use to in-car use.
4. Charges the iPod internal battery --- and to prevent battery-drain, charging automatically ends one hour after iPod is paused
5. Auxiliary audio input [connect an audio device (mp3, DVD, Game, SAT radio etc) and listen to it on the factory system]
6. Plug-n-Play: This complete package includes installation cables, mounting screws and user’s manual.
HYBRID MODE, DIRECT MODE AND AUX. OPTION
The PA11-HON2Y provides two ways of controlling the iPod through the car radio, namely Hybrid mode (formerly Playlist Mode) and Direct Mode.
DIRECT MODE:
Search and select music on the iPod directly just as you would in portable use. Music will playback through your car stereo. Use the track up/down, fast forward and reverse buttons on your Honda radio or steering wheel to control music playback. All control functions on the iPod will still be available. Please see section 4 of this manual for additional information
HYBRID MODE:
In hybrid mode, the songs on the iPod are accessed exactly in the same way as in Playlist mode is explained in the owner’s manual. But, iPod screen is NOT LOCKED to “OK to disconnect” and iPod control keys are also fully functional. Therefore, while playing your iPod at any DISC location of the radio, you can manually change songs, change artist, change album, fast forward, and fast reverse etc. using the iPod buttons. (See Playlist Naming in section 4 of this manual). Dip switch #2 on the PA11-HON2Y interface is for mode selection. The “ON” position is for Hybrid Mode and the “OFF” position is for Direct Mode. It is preset to “ON” (Hybrid Mode) at the factory.
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Tuesday, March 30, 2010
Monday, March 29, 2010
Parrot UNIKA for Honda Cars Installation
Parrot UNIKA is a universal interface that allows you to control the Parrot MKi9000/MKi9100/MKi9200 directly with the OEM steering wheel commands. Parrot UNIKA can work with car protocols such as CAN, KBUS or resistive systems.
Installation of Parror MKI
We recommend you to install the Parrot MKi before installing the UNIKA. Make sure the installation is correctly performed by checking if the
«Good bye» message is displayed when you turn off the ignition.
Selecting the protocol
Use the DIP switches located on one side of the UNIKA to select the protocol (resistive or CAN Bus / KBus) on which the vehicle is based.
Warning: Make sure the UNIKA is not powered before selecting the protocol.
Power Supply
The power supply for the UNIKA interface is taken from the power cable of the Parrot MKi. It is important to follow the color code of the power cable wires: the red wire of the kit’s cable corresponds to the permanent 12V supply; the orange wire corresponds to the ignition 12V ; the black wire is for ground ; the yellow wire corresponds to the Parrot mute output. Warning : Connect the ignition to the Parrot car kit if the vehicle is based on a resistive or a K-Bus protocol. Don’t connect the ignition if the vehicle is based on a CAN protocol.
On some vehicles, the 12V power wires may be reversed, in which case you must reverse the red and orange wires of the hands-free kit’s power supply. This can easily be done by reversing the two fuse holders on the kit’s power cable.
Download pdf Parrot UNIKA for Honda Cars Installation
Installation of Parror MKI
We recommend you to install the Parrot MKi before installing the UNIKA. Make sure the installation is correctly performed by checking if the
«Good bye» message is displayed when you turn off the ignition.
Selecting the protocol
Use the DIP switches located on one side of the UNIKA to select the protocol (resistive or CAN Bus / KBus) on which the vehicle is based.
Warning: Make sure the UNIKA is not powered before selecting the protocol.
Power Supply
The power supply for the UNIKA interface is taken from the power cable of the Parrot MKi. It is important to follow the color code of the power cable wires: the red wire of the kit’s cable corresponds to the permanent 12V supply; the orange wire corresponds to the ignition 12V ; the black wire is for ground ; the yellow wire corresponds to the Parrot mute output. Warning : Connect the ignition to the Parrot car kit if the vehicle is based on a resistive or a K-Bus protocol. Don’t connect the ignition if the vehicle is based on a CAN protocol.
On some vehicles, the 12V power wires may be reversed, in which case you must reverse the red and orange wires of the hands-free kit’s power supply. This can easily be done by reversing the two fuse holders on the kit’s power cable.
Download pdf Parrot UNIKA for Honda Cars Installation
Saturday, March 27, 2010
Car2PC-HON1 adapter for Car PC/laptop integration into car stereo and AUX Interface for MP3 player
Preparation
1. Turn off car engine and remove key from ignition
2. Un-mount your radio from the dash in order to get access to the back side of the radio.
Adapter installation
3. Attach square 14 pins connector to the back of the Honda stereo.
4. Find a place where you can place Car2PC. In many cars there is enough room in the dash to place Car2PC.
Note: Make sure you mount Car2PC in a place with enough room so when you mount the car stereo back you do not break the adapter
5. You may use glove box or other spaces in a dash to direct USB+ Audio cables out
6. Mount your car stereo back into the dash, make sure it‘s clips are securely fastened
7. Now you can turn you car stereo on and switch it over to CD Changer mode. It should show Disk 1, Track 01 on a display.
8. Congratulations! You have installed Car2PC-HON1 adapter and you may use it right away with your PC/laptop
Driver installation
9. Make sure you turn your car stereo on
10. Connect USB cable to your PC/laptop
11. When connected, the PC running Windows 2000 or XP will prompt
12. Insert driver‘s disk into CD drive and click Next
13. When Windows comes up with the message below, just click —Continue Anyway“ button.
14. This is it!
Driver installed and it is ready to be used with the included WinAmp or Windows Media Player.
Download pdf Car2PC-HON1 adapter for Car PC/laptop integration into car stereo and AUX Interface for MP3 player
1. Turn off car engine and remove key from ignition
2. Un-mount your radio from the dash in order to get access to the back side of the radio.
Adapter installation
3. Attach square 14 pins connector to the back of the Honda stereo.
4. Find a place where you can place Car2PC. In many cars there is enough room in the dash to place Car2PC.
Note: Make sure you mount Car2PC in a place with enough room so when you mount the car stereo back you do not break the adapter
5. You may use glove box or other spaces in a dash to direct USB+ Audio cables out
6. Mount your car stereo back into the dash, make sure it‘s clips are securely fastened
7. Now you can turn you car stereo on and switch it over to CD Changer mode. It should show Disk 1, Track 01 on a display.
8. Congratulations! You have installed Car2PC-HON1 adapter and you may use it right away with your PC/laptop
Driver installation
9. Make sure you turn your car stereo on
10. Connect USB cable to your PC/laptop
11. When connected, the PC running Windows 2000 or XP will prompt
12. Insert driver‘s disk into CD drive and click Next
13. When Windows comes up with the message below, just click —Continue Anyway“ button.
14. This is it!
Driver installed and it is ready to be used with the included WinAmp or Windows Media Player.
Download pdf Car2PC-HON1 adapter for Car PC/laptop integration into car stereo and AUX Interface for MP3 player
Honda B16/B18 Supercharger kit User Manual
Before you start installation
Take some engine bay pictures for later reference.
Make a special drawing of all the coolant hoses going to the different parts of the stock intake, you will need this later on. The same goes for the vacuum hoses to the different parts of the intake.
Mark the electrical connectors to the MAP sensor and TPS sensor. You will need this later on.
Drain the engine coolant.
The Supercharger kit mounted on a B16A1 Engine.
Removal of parts
Remove factory airbox and plastic intake hose.
Remove the throttle cable from the intake.
Remove all air and water hoses from the intake.
Remove all electrical connectors from the intake.
Remove the fuel pressure line and fuel return line from the fuel rail.
Remove the two bolts underneath the intake (intake bracket).
Remove all nuts holding the intake.
You should now be able to remove the intake.
Oil system
The oil return drain plug is installed in the block.
Unscrew the stock plug. Install the custom fitting using the stock sealing washer.
The pressurized oil can be taken from the oil pressure sensor. Remove the sensor and fit a suitable fitting/hose/T-piece etc. in the same manner as a turbo kit uses. Another alternative is to use an adapter plate between the engine block and oil filter which has an oil outlet.
Install a new oil filter.
Alternator drive system
Remove the alternator drive belt.
Remove the alternator.
Remove the alternator pulley. Replace it with the twin pulley.
Remove the alternator mounting bracket.
Remove the alternator mounting bracket collar (ring-shaped part that the alternator mount bolt passes through).
Install the bracket collar in the new bracket.
Download pdf Honda B16/B18 Supercharger kit User Manual
Take some engine bay pictures for later reference.
Make a special drawing of all the coolant hoses going to the different parts of the stock intake, you will need this later on. The same goes for the vacuum hoses to the different parts of the intake.
Mark the electrical connectors to the MAP sensor and TPS sensor. You will need this later on.
Drain the engine coolant.
The Supercharger kit mounted on a B16A1 Engine.
Removal of parts
Remove factory airbox and plastic intake hose.
Remove the throttle cable from the intake.
Remove all air and water hoses from the intake.
Remove all electrical connectors from the intake.
Remove the fuel pressure line and fuel return line from the fuel rail.
Remove the two bolts underneath the intake (intake bracket).
Remove all nuts holding the intake.
You should now be able to remove the intake.
Oil system
The oil return drain plug is installed in the block.
Unscrew the stock plug. Install the custom fitting using the stock sealing washer.
The pressurized oil can be taken from the oil pressure sensor. Remove the sensor and fit a suitable fitting/hose/T-piece etc. in the same manner as a turbo kit uses. Another alternative is to use an adapter plate between the engine block and oil filter which has an oil outlet.
Install a new oil filter.
Alternator drive system
Remove the alternator drive belt.
Remove the alternator.
Remove the alternator pulley. Replace it with the twin pulley.
Remove the alternator mounting bracket.
Remove the alternator mounting bracket collar (ring-shaped part that the alternator mount bolt passes through).
Install the bracket collar in the new bracket.
Download pdf Honda B16/B18 Supercharger kit User Manual
Friday, March 26, 2010
2008 Honda Accord 2-Door Trunk Spoiler Installation Instructions
The information in this installation instruction is intended for use only by skilled technicians who have the proper tools, equipment, and training to correctly and safely add equipment to your vehicle. These procedures should not be attempted by “do-it-yourselfers.”
NOTE:
• Be careful not to damage the body paint finish.
• This trunk spoiler kit should be installed only if the ambient air temperature is 60°F (15°C) or above.
• Wash and wax the area to be covered. Use a
high-quality paste wax.
Installing the Trunk Spoiler
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft codes for the radio and navigation system (if equipped), then write down the radio station presets.
2. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
3. On the inside of the trunk lid, locate the two identification marks on the trunk lid. Lightly center-punch each mark. Repeat on the right side of the trunk lid.
4. While wearing eye protection, first drill the hole with a 3 mm drill bit, and finish with an 8 mm drill bit.
• To prevent drilling through the trunk lid, wrap a drill stop around the drill bit 10 mm away from the tip.
• To prevent the metal shavings from falling onto the trunk floor, place a cover onto the trunk floor.
• Remove all burrs and metal shavings with a file, and apply touch-up paint to the edges of the holes you drilled.
• Repeat on the right side of the trunk lid.
5. Close the trunk lid. Attach tape to the trunk lid as shown.
6. Align the template with the left side trunk lid. Using a felt-tip pen, mark the left side trunk lid as shown. Remove the template.
7. Flip the template over. Align the template with the right side trunk lid. Using a felt-tip pen, make two marks on the right side trunk lid as shown. Remove the template.
8. Center-punch the mark on the left side trunk lid. While wearing eye protection, first drill the hole with a 3 mm drill bit, and finish with an 8 mm drill bit.
Remove the tape.
• To prevent drilling through the trunk lid, wrap a drill stop around the drill bit 10 mm away from the tip.
• Remove all burrs and metal shavings with a file, and apply touch-up paint to the edges of the holes you drilled.
• Take care not to damage the wire harnesses when drilling the holes.
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NOTE:
• Be careful not to damage the body paint finish.
• This trunk spoiler kit should be installed only if the ambient air temperature is 60°F (15°C) or above.
• Wash and wax the area to be covered. Use a
high-quality paste wax.
Installing the Trunk Spoiler
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft codes for the radio and navigation system (if equipped), then write down the radio station presets.
2. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
3. On the inside of the trunk lid, locate the two identification marks on the trunk lid. Lightly center-punch each mark. Repeat on the right side of the trunk lid.
4. While wearing eye protection, first drill the hole with a 3 mm drill bit, and finish with an 8 mm drill bit.
• To prevent drilling through the trunk lid, wrap a drill stop around the drill bit 10 mm away from the tip.
• To prevent the metal shavings from falling onto the trunk floor, place a cover onto the trunk floor.
• Remove all burrs and metal shavings with a file, and apply touch-up paint to the edges of the holes you drilled.
• Repeat on the right side of the trunk lid.
5. Close the trunk lid. Attach tape to the trunk lid as shown.
6. Align the template with the left side trunk lid. Using a felt-tip pen, mark the left side trunk lid as shown. Remove the template.
7. Flip the template over. Align the template with the right side trunk lid. Using a felt-tip pen, make two marks on the right side trunk lid as shown. Remove the template.
8. Center-punch the mark on the left side trunk lid. While wearing eye protection, first drill the hole with a 3 mm drill bit, and finish with an 8 mm drill bit.
Remove the tape.
• To prevent drilling through the trunk lid, wrap a drill stop around the drill bit 10 mm away from the tip.
• Remove all burrs and metal shavings with a file, and apply touch-up paint to the edges of the holes you drilled.
• Take care not to damage the wire harnesses when drilling the holes.
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Tuesday, March 23, 2010
iblueTooth Operating & Procedures Manual
The motivation for Bluetooth technology.
The notion of connecting devices (computers, peripheral PDA’s, TV’s, phones) has become a very challenging and complex thing. Whenever two or more devices need to communicate with each other, they have to be able to understand each other. Some questions that immediately come to mind when you have to connect multiple devices together are; Will these devices have a serial or parallel connection? What protocol has the device manufacturers ‘agreed’ upon? Are these devices talking over a cable or are they wireless?
It’s fairly clear that the average user can get confused and even overwhelmed when attempting to keep track of all these different standards and configurations. In this day and age, we need something a little more user-friendly. We can all agree that plug-and-play made life easier when installing new hardware, why not solve the problems with device connectivity?
What is Bluetooth?
Bluetooth is a wireless technology that enables devices to connect point-to-point or multipoint (up to seven simultaneous connections by a single device) rather than the traditional cable links. This means that devices that are Bluetooth enabled can connect to each other in a wireless environment, no more cables! Bluetooth operates on the 2.4 GHz frequency, and it is usable within a range of 10 meters to 1km. Keep in mind that Bluetooth is not going to replace your network; it is geared towards a device-to- device communication.
Bluetooth will eliminate the need for electronic products and accessories to be connected via a wired connection. Other Bluetooth compatible devices can communicate in a wireless environment and exchange files, transfer and synchronise between themselves. Yet another advantage of Bluetooth is that links can be established between groups of products at the same time, compared to the single connection limitation with cables. One of the features of Bluetooth devices is that they broadcast themselves to other Bluetooth enabled devices. This means that you can easily find and communicate with devices without having to manually create a connection.
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The notion of connecting devices (computers, peripheral PDA’s, TV’s, phones) has become a very challenging and complex thing. Whenever two or more devices need to communicate with each other, they have to be able to understand each other. Some questions that immediately come to mind when you have to connect multiple devices together are; Will these devices have a serial or parallel connection? What protocol has the device manufacturers ‘agreed’ upon? Are these devices talking over a cable or are they wireless?
It’s fairly clear that the average user can get confused and even overwhelmed when attempting to keep track of all these different standards and configurations. In this day and age, we need something a little more user-friendly. We can all agree that plug-and-play made life easier when installing new hardware, why not solve the problems with device connectivity?
What is Bluetooth?
Bluetooth is a wireless technology that enables devices to connect point-to-point or multipoint (up to seven simultaneous connections by a single device) rather than the traditional cable links. This means that devices that are Bluetooth enabled can connect to each other in a wireless environment, no more cables! Bluetooth operates on the 2.4 GHz frequency, and it is usable within a range of 10 meters to 1km. Keep in mind that Bluetooth is not going to replace your network; it is geared towards a device-to- device communication.
Bluetooth will eliminate the need for electronic products and accessories to be connected via a wired connection. Other Bluetooth compatible devices can communicate in a wireless environment and exchange files, transfer and synchronise between themselves. Yet another advantage of Bluetooth is that links can be established between groups of products at the same time, compared to the single connection limitation with cables. One of the features of Bluetooth devices is that they broadcast themselves to other Bluetooth enabled devices. This means that you can easily find and communicate with devices without having to manually create a connection.
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Monday, March 22, 2010
Universal Audio Interface User's Manual
This is the third generation product and it is available for all vehicles and works with all head units. With this universal audio interface you can connect your aftermarket head unit to your original steering wheel. You will soon enjoy the convenience of controlling your head unit from the steering wheel.
Notes:
1. The installation for this interface is a professional job, so please go to nearby installation shop for help.
2. Before tearing down the steering wheel, contact the local dealer or the factory first.. For installation with 95% of vehicles, it is very simple and you just need to connect 4 wires.
First: Let’s Learn about the Interface
1. Eight wires in the interface:
● White wire: Input/1, Connect this wire to steering wheel audio control system signal output wire SW1 ( For the resistance is larger than 9K, such as car from Korea and USA)
● Green wire: Input/2 Connect this wire to steering wheel audio control system signal output wire SW2 ( For the resistance is less than 9K, such as car from Europe and Japan)
● Blue wire: Input/3 Connect this wire to steering wheel audio control system signal output wire SW3 ( For the resistance is less than 9K, such as car from Europe and Japan)
● Orange wire: Input/4 Connect this wire to steering wheel audio control system signal output wire SW4 ( For +12V input cars, such as Regal. Note: Please don’t connect to the +12V ACC Wire)
● Violet wire: DIN Connect this wire to steering wheel audio control system signal output wire DIN ( For +5V signal output wires, such as VW, Kreisler, and Nissan)
● Red wire: ACC +12V Connect this wire to the ACC wire
● Black (thick) wire: GND Connect this wire to the GND
● Black (thin) wire: GND of input, Connect this wire to steering wheel audio control system’s GND-S wire.
● Yellow/Brown wire: IR+\ Brown: IR-, Connect to the external wire (3M) for IR transmitter.
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Notes:
1. The installation for this interface is a professional job, so please go to nearby installation shop for help.
2. Before tearing down the steering wheel, contact the local dealer or the factory first.. For installation with 95% of vehicles, it is very simple and you just need to connect 4 wires.
First: Let’s Learn about the Interface
1. Eight wires in the interface:
● White wire: Input/1, Connect this wire to steering wheel audio control system signal output wire SW1 ( For the resistance is larger than 9K, such as car from Korea and USA)
● Green wire: Input/2 Connect this wire to steering wheel audio control system signal output wire SW2 ( For the resistance is less than 9K, such as car from Europe and Japan)
● Blue wire: Input/3 Connect this wire to steering wheel audio control system signal output wire SW3 ( For the resistance is less than 9K, such as car from Europe and Japan)
● Orange wire: Input/4 Connect this wire to steering wheel audio control system signal output wire SW4 ( For +12V input cars, such as Regal. Note: Please don’t connect to the +12V ACC Wire)
● Violet wire: DIN Connect this wire to steering wheel audio control system signal output wire DIN ( For +5V signal output wires, such as VW, Kreisler, and Nissan)
● Red wire: ACC +12V Connect this wire to the ACC wire
● Black (thick) wire: GND Connect this wire to the GND
● Black (thin) wire: GND of input, Connect this wire to steering wheel audio control system’s GND-S wire.
● Yellow/Brown wire: IR+\ Brown: IR-, Connect to the external wire (3M) for IR transmitter.
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Sunday, March 21, 2010
Synthetic Manual Transmission & Transaxle Gear Lube
AMSOIL Synthetic Manual Transmission and Transaxle Gear Lube (MTG) is a premium blend of the finest synthetic base oils and advanced, high-performance additives. It is formulated specifically for maximum protection in the most demanding manual transmission and transaxle applications where an extreme pressure GL-4 gear lube is specified, including those where high horsepower/high torque engines and towing or heavy loads increase transmission stress.
AMSOIL MTG prevents the thinning effects of mechanical shear. It maintains its viscosity and superior film strength for consistent, long-lasting wear protection. MTG excels in hot and cold temperature extremes that exceed the limits of conventional mineral oils. It protects against rust, keeps seals soft for long life, and is compatible with brass synchros for smooth synchromesh shift quality.
Ideal for NV-4500 Transmissions
MTG is a thermally stable, extreme pressure formulation that resists heat, oxidation, acid build-up and varnish. It is the ideal gear lube for high temperature applications, including the New Venture NV-4500 transmission, which retains heat due to its cast iron housing and is often subjected to heavy loads and high torque from turbo-diesel engines.
AMSOIL MTG is the replacement fluid for GM part #12346190 and Chrysler part #4874459 (Chrysler specification #MS-9070).
Ideal for Muscle Car Transmissions
The extreme pressure design of MTG reduces friction, heat and wear. It withstands the high horsepower and quick shifts common to muscle cars equipped with large displacement engines.
Ideal for Front Wheel Drive Transaxles
The advanced synthetic formulation provides ultimate protection for gears and bearings in front wheel drive transaxles.
Excellent for Service Centers
MTG is a versatile transmission and transaxle lubricant. It reduces inventory needs, is readily available and is cost effective compared to vehicle manufacturer branded products.
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AMSOIL MTG prevents the thinning effects of mechanical shear. It maintains its viscosity and superior film strength for consistent, long-lasting wear protection. MTG excels in hot and cold temperature extremes that exceed the limits of conventional mineral oils. It protects against rust, keeps seals soft for long life, and is compatible with brass synchros for smooth synchromesh shift quality.
Ideal for NV-4500 Transmissions
MTG is a thermally stable, extreme pressure formulation that resists heat, oxidation, acid build-up and varnish. It is the ideal gear lube for high temperature applications, including the New Venture NV-4500 transmission, which retains heat due to its cast iron housing and is often subjected to heavy loads and high torque from turbo-diesel engines.
AMSOIL MTG is the replacement fluid for GM part #12346190 and Chrysler part #4874459 (Chrysler specification #MS-9070).
Ideal for Muscle Car Transmissions
The extreme pressure design of MTG reduces friction, heat and wear. It withstands the high horsepower and quick shifts common to muscle cars equipped with large displacement engines.
Ideal for Front Wheel Drive Transaxles
The advanced synthetic formulation provides ultimate protection for gears and bearings in front wheel drive transaxles.
Excellent for Service Centers
MTG is a versatile transmission and transaxle lubricant. It reduces inventory needs, is readily available and is cost effective compared to vehicle manufacturer branded products.
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2010 Toyota Prius PHEV Conversion Kit User Manual
The Plug-in Hybrid Electric Vehicle Conversion Kit (PHEV) is a rechargeable battery set that is supplementary to a Hybrid vehicle battery. It supplies electricity stored in the supplementary battery, which is charged from an AC wall socket, which provides for 20 to 40 mile of electrically assisted driving per charge, sufficient for most normal daily commutes. It is safe, reliable, saves and is user and environmentally friendly.
Attention
1. Please read instructions before installation.
2. Never connect wires improperly.
3. New batteries should be re-charged to full and balanced before use.
4. Please check the batteries' voltage and balance regularly for the first few times you drive the vehicle.
5. To extend battery life, equipment must be recharged, using the 110VAC household electricity powered charger provided, to full each time and the cells need to be fully balanced after charging.
6. The circuit breaker in the enclosure box is set to be switched off automatically if the current exceeds a pre-set limit
(100A). In the event this breaker switches off you will then need to manually switch it back on before use.
7. Please switch the equipment off immediately if a defect is found while driving.
8. Please do not disassemble the components if the equipment is working normally
What is Included in this Product
◆ 16 / 32 cells for 2KWH / 4KWH, Lithium-Ion batteries
◆ Battery balancers—one for every 8 cells, monitoring and balancing battery voltages to avoid over or under charges to individual cells. This can extend battery life by a factor of 3.
◆ 48V / 15A high power charger
◆ 3000W DC / DC Converter and Controller
◆ Fire extinguisher for protecting when the temperature is over 105℃—First of all, please open the cover and take out the blue insulative inserter to let it work.
◆ Automatic DC circuit breaker—to disconnect high voltage equipment operation in the event of a high current fault.
◆ Easily installed enclosure, simple to use system.
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Attention
1. Please read instructions before installation.
2. Never connect wires improperly.
3. New batteries should be re-charged to full and balanced before use.
4. Please check the batteries' voltage and balance regularly for the first few times you drive the vehicle.
5. To extend battery life, equipment must be recharged, using the 110VAC household electricity powered charger provided, to full each time and the cells need to be fully balanced after charging.
6. The circuit breaker in the enclosure box is set to be switched off automatically if the current exceeds a pre-set limit
(100A). In the event this breaker switches off you will then need to manually switch it back on before use.
7. Please switch the equipment off immediately if a defect is found while driving.
8. Please do not disassemble the components if the equipment is working normally
What is Included in this Product
◆ 16 / 32 cells for 2KWH / 4KWH, Lithium-Ion batteries
◆ Battery balancers—one for every 8 cells, monitoring and balancing battery voltages to avoid over or under charges to individual cells. This can extend battery life by a factor of 3.
◆ 48V / 15A high power charger
◆ 3000W DC / DC Converter and Controller
◆ Fire extinguisher for protecting when the temperature is over 105℃—First of all, please open the cover and take out the blue insulative inserter to let it work.
◆ Automatic DC circuit breaker—to disconnect high voltage equipment operation in the event of a high current fault.
◆ Easily installed enclosure, simple to use system.
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Friday, March 19, 2010
TPMS Sensor Service Guidelines
This document outlines the guidelines for the manual mounting on the rim of EnTire/TRW fixed angle TPM sensors.
This document does not cover any other TPM sensors.
- Sensor & valve components
- Step 1 Start fitting the valve unit on the rim
- Step 2 Tighten the nut
- Step 3 Check the assembly sensor – valve – rim
Step 1 : Start fitting the sensor - valve unit on the rim
• Slide the sensor-valve unit through the valve hole of the rim.
• Hold the sensor against the rim and the rubber grommet against the sealing surface.
• Insert the washer then the nut over the valve stem.
• Start tightening the nut using a 12 mm deep socket.
Step 2 : Tighten the nut
• Continue to tighten the nut until contact with the rim and then tighten to the final torque. The recommended torque setting is 4.0 Nm (35 lbf.in). For example, this allows the final torque to be between 3.5 to 4.5 Nm if a +/- 12 % tolerance torque wrench is used. (Note : it is recommended to use a class B tool but a class C tool is acceptable)
• The standard recommended torque range is given by the ETRTO, TRA… for a rubber corner joint valve.
Important : Tighten slowly with quarter turn steps until the final torque is reached.
Check that the sensor is firmly attached to the rim at the valve hole interface. Final positioning of the sensor feet is dependent on the wheel dimensions and may not be uniform. Possibilities are neither foot, one foot or both feet may contact the wheel drop center.
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This document does not cover any other TPM sensors.
- Sensor & valve components
- Step 1 Start fitting the valve unit on the rim
- Step 2 Tighten the nut
- Step 3 Check the assembly sensor – valve – rim
Step 1 : Start fitting the sensor - valve unit on the rim
• Slide the sensor-valve unit through the valve hole of the rim.
• Hold the sensor against the rim and the rubber grommet against the sealing surface.
• Insert the washer then the nut over the valve stem.
• Start tightening the nut using a 12 mm deep socket.
Step 2 : Tighten the nut
• Continue to tighten the nut until contact with the rim and then tighten to the final torque. The recommended torque setting is 4.0 Nm (35 lbf.in). For example, this allows the final torque to be between 3.5 to 4.5 Nm if a +/- 12 % tolerance torque wrench is used. (Note : it is recommended to use a class B tool but a class C tool is acceptable)
• The standard recommended torque range is given by the ETRTO, TRA… for a rubber corner joint valve.
Important : Tighten slowly with quarter turn steps until the final torque is reached.
Check that the sensor is firmly attached to the rim at the valve hole interface. Final positioning of the sensor feet is dependent on the wheel dimensions and may not be uniform. Possibilities are neither foot, one foot or both feet may contact the wheel drop center.
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Toyota 2L-T, 3L Engine Repair Manual Supplement
To assist you in finding your way through this manual, the Section Title and major heading are given at the top of every page. An INDEX is provided on the 1st page of each section to guide you to the item to be repaired. At the beginning of each section, PRECAUTIONS are given that pertain to all repair operations contained in that section. Read these precautions before starting any repair task. TROUBLESHOOTING tables are included for each system to help you diagnose the problem and find the cause. The repair for each possible cause is referenced in the remedy column to quickly lead you to the solution.
How to Use This Manual
The procedures are presented in a step-by-step format: #
• The illustration shows what to do and where to do it.
• The task heading tells what todo.
• The detailed text tells how to perform the task and gives other information such as specifications and warnings.
This format provides the experienced technician with a FAST TRACK to the information needed. The upper case task heading can be read at a glance when necessary, and the text below it provides detailed information. Important specifications and warnings always stand out in bold type.
GENERAL REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
1. Use fender, seat and floor covers to keep the vehicle clean and prevent damage.
2. During disassembly, keep parts in order to facilitate reassembly.
3. Observe the following.
(a) Before performing electrical work, disconnect the negative (—) cable from the battery terminal.
(b) If it is necessary to disconnect the battery for inspection or repair, always disconnect the cable from the negative (—) terminal which is grounded to the vehicle body.
(c) To prevent damage to the battery terminal post, loos- en the terminal nut and raise the cable straight up without twisting or prying it.
(d) Clean the battery terminal posts and cable terminals with a shop rag. Do not scrape them with a file or other abrasive object.
(e) Install the cable terminal to the battery post with the nut loose, and tighten the nut after installation. Do not use a hammer to tap the terminal onto the post. (f) Be sure the cover for the positive (+) terminal is properly in place.
4. Check hose and wiring connectors to make sure that they are secure and correct.
5. Non-reusable parts
(a) Always replace cotter pins, gaskets, O-rings, oil seals, etc. with new ones.
(b) Non-reusable parts are indicated in the component illustrations by the " ♦ " symbol.
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How to Use This Manual
The procedures are presented in a step-by-step format: #
• The illustration shows what to do and where to do it.
• The task heading tells what todo.
• The detailed text tells how to perform the task and gives other information such as specifications and warnings.
This format provides the experienced technician with a FAST TRACK to the information needed. The upper case task heading can be read at a glance when necessary, and the text below it provides detailed information. Important specifications and warnings always stand out in bold type.
GENERAL REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
1. Use fender, seat and floor covers to keep the vehicle clean and prevent damage.
2. During disassembly, keep parts in order to facilitate reassembly.
3. Observe the following.
(a) Before performing electrical work, disconnect the negative (—) cable from the battery terminal.
(b) If it is necessary to disconnect the battery for inspection or repair, always disconnect the cable from the negative (—) terminal which is grounded to the vehicle body.
(c) To prevent damage to the battery terminal post, loos- en the terminal nut and raise the cable straight up without twisting or prying it.
(d) Clean the battery terminal posts and cable terminals with a shop rag. Do not scrape them with a file or other abrasive object.
(e) Install the cable terminal to the battery post with the nut loose, and tighten the nut after installation. Do not use a hammer to tap the terminal onto the post. (f) Be sure the cover for the positive (+) terminal is properly in place.
4. Check hose and wiring connectors to make sure that they are secure and correct.
5. Non-reusable parts
(a) Always replace cotter pins, gaskets, O-rings, oil seals, etc. with new ones.
(b) Non-reusable parts are indicated in the component illustrations by the " ♦ " symbol.
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Toyota Echo/Yaris TWM Performance Shifter Cable Bushing Kit Installation Manual
It is preferable to park on a flat surface, as you may have to engage and disengage the hand brake and shift from gears to neutral. If you cannot do so and are obliged to install the shifter cable bushings on a slightly inclined surface, place wooden blocks in front or behind the wheels to prevent the car from moving while you’re working.
Estimated Installation Time: 30 minutes
Tools required:
▪ Ratchet
▪ 10 mm deep socket
▪ Ratchet extension
▪ Needle nose pliers/vise grips
Install:
1. Working in the engine bay, unscrew the two battery terminals using a ratchet with a 10mm socket. Remove the battery tie-down using a 10mm deep socket for the two bolts. The throttle cable must be removed from the bracket as shown to the left. Take note of how the battery tie down is installed and put it aside for re-installation later.
2. Remove the battery and plastic battery tray from the engine bay. Put them aside in a safe place for re-installation later.
3. Begin removal of the intake by loosening the bolt highlighted to the left with a 10mm socket and a ratchet and disconnect the outlet tube from the air box. Unplug both sensors highlighted on the picture from the air box. Unclip the two latches on the air box. Remove the top part of the air box and air filter to have access to the bottom part of the air box. Put them aside for re-installation later.
4. Remove the three bolts at the bottom of the air box using a 10mm socket and a ratchet with an extension. Put them aside for re-installation later.
5. Unscrew the bolt holding the intake near the driver side headlight using a 10mm socket and a ratchet with an extension. Remove the bottom part of the intake from the engine bay and put it aside for re-installation later.
6. You now have access to both cable bushings. Remove the cotter hairpins using needle nose pliers. Also remove the metal washers holding down the stock rubber bushings. These washers will not be re-used, but should be kept in case you revert back to the stock bushings in the future.
7. Remove the two stock rubber bushings from the shifter cables. You can use the pin on the transmission arm (where the cotter hairpin was connected) to force the bushings out of the shifter cables. Use the provided sandpaper to clean up both pins and the inside of the loop on the cable if there is corrosion. These bushings will not be re-used but should be kept in case you revert back to stock bushings in the future.
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Estimated Installation Time: 30 minutes
Tools required:
▪ Ratchet
▪ 10 mm deep socket
▪ Ratchet extension
▪ Needle nose pliers/vise grips
Install:
1. Working in the engine bay, unscrew the two battery terminals using a ratchet with a 10mm socket. Remove the battery tie-down using a 10mm deep socket for the two bolts. The throttle cable must be removed from the bracket as shown to the left. Take note of how the battery tie down is installed and put it aside for re-installation later.
2. Remove the battery and plastic battery tray from the engine bay. Put them aside in a safe place for re-installation later.
3. Begin removal of the intake by loosening the bolt highlighted to the left with a 10mm socket and a ratchet and disconnect the outlet tube from the air box. Unplug both sensors highlighted on the picture from the air box. Unclip the two latches on the air box. Remove the top part of the air box and air filter to have access to the bottom part of the air box. Put them aside for re-installation later.
4. Remove the three bolts at the bottom of the air box using a 10mm socket and a ratchet with an extension. Put them aside for re-installation later.
5. Unscrew the bolt holding the intake near the driver side headlight using a 10mm socket and a ratchet with an extension. Remove the bottom part of the intake from the engine bay and put it aside for re-installation later.
6. You now have access to both cable bushings. Remove the cotter hairpins using needle nose pliers. Also remove the metal washers holding down the stock rubber bushings. These washers will not be re-used, but should be kept in case you revert back to the stock bushings in the future.
7. Remove the two stock rubber bushings from the shifter cables. You can use the pin on the transmission arm (where the cotter hairpin was connected) to force the bushings out of the shifter cables. Use the provided sandpaper to clean up both pins and the inside of the loop on the cable if there is corrosion. These bushings will not be re-used but should be kept in case you revert back to stock bushings in the future.
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95-97 Toyota Tercel Short Throw Shifter Installation Manual
Installation Procedure:
1. Unscrew the stock shift knob by rotating it counter clockwise.
2. Use a Philips head screwdriver to remove the 2 screws on either side of the console just behind the shift boot. Sliding the seats fully rearward allows easy access to these screws.
3. Slide the front seats fully forward and use a Philips head screwdriver to remove the 2 screws on either side of the back of the center console.
4. Lift the rear portion of the center console out of the car and put in a safe place for re-installation.
5. Locate the clips at the top front portion of the center console. Gently push in the center portion of these clips with your finger or a screwdriver, and then pull out on them to remove them.
6. Pull the plate surrounding the stereo out slightly to free the front portion of the console.
7. Use needle nose pliers to disconnect the clip holding the cigarette lighter power connector to the steel bracket.
8. Disconnect the power connector from the cigarette lighter on the front portion of the console.
9. The front portion of the center console can now be removed from the car. Lift it up from the rear and pull up and out of the car.
10. Use a flat head screwdriver and a hammer to pry the clip on the passenger side of the assembly off of the shaft. Use caution during this step as the clip may break and become a dangerous projectile. Use the screwdriver and wedge it between the plastic assembly and the clip and gradually work it off the shaft. Alternatively, a Dremel tool may be used to cut the clip off as a new one is included in the kit.
11. Remove the clip from the side “L” shaped arm and slide the shift cable off the side arm.
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1. Unscrew the stock shift knob by rotating it counter clockwise.
2. Use a Philips head screwdriver to remove the 2 screws on either side of the console just behind the shift boot. Sliding the seats fully rearward allows easy access to these screws.
3. Slide the front seats fully forward and use a Philips head screwdriver to remove the 2 screws on either side of the back of the center console.
4. Lift the rear portion of the center console out of the car and put in a safe place for re-installation.
5. Locate the clips at the top front portion of the center console. Gently push in the center portion of these clips with your finger or a screwdriver, and then pull out on them to remove them.
6. Pull the plate surrounding the stereo out slightly to free the front portion of the console.
7. Use needle nose pliers to disconnect the clip holding the cigarette lighter power connector to the steel bracket.
8. Disconnect the power connector from the cigarette lighter on the front portion of the console.
9. The front portion of the center console can now be removed from the car. Lift it up from the rear and pull up and out of the car.
10. Use a flat head screwdriver and a hammer to pry the clip on the passenger side of the assembly off of the shaft. Use caution during this step as the clip may break and become a dangerous projectile. Use the screwdriver and wedge it between the plastic assembly and the clip and gradually work it off the shaft. Alternatively, a Dremel tool may be used to cut the clip off as a new one is included in the kit.
11. Remove the clip from the side “L” shaped arm and slide the shift cable off the side arm.
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Thursday, March 18, 2010
Toyota RAV4 Complete Report Manual
For 2004, the Toyota RAV4 features a more robust engine, exterior and interior updates, and more standard equipment. The previous 148-hp, 2.0-liter four-cylinder has been supplanted by a 2.4-liter that makes 161 hp. The suspension and steering have been retuned accordingly. The front and rear ends both have a new look, and inside, cosmetic changes include a redesigned steering wheel, instrument panel, and center dash. Anti-lock brakes with brake assist are now standard, as are air conditioning, cruise control, steering-wheel audio controls, and power windows, door locks, and mirrors. The RAV4's interior has more room than most mid-size station wagons: 68.3 cubic feet in the rear. The original cute-ute is available with front-wheel drive or a full-time four-wheel-drive system that operates transparently. The RAV4 is nimble, practical, good looking, and well made.
The Avalon, introduced early for '06, is a larger, more powerful, and better-looking version of what had been a pretty anonymous sedan, despite its position at the top of Toyota's line. The Prius hybrid gets redesigned front and rear lamps, new colors, and more luxury options such as a leather interior and a rearview camera. Otherwise, Toyota is concentrating on solidifying its lead in the hybrid race—it plans to double global production of these vehicles to 500,000 next year.
Unchanged: Camry, Camry Solara, Corolla, Corolla Matrix, Echo.
Dead: MR2 Spyder, Celica.
Future: More hybrids, including built-in-North America Prius and Camry, and an Echo replacement. Toyota's truck line adds a Highlander hybrid powered by a 208-hp six-cylinder engine and an electric motor. The 4Runner gets a mild facial, new colors, and a few trim and equipment upgrades, as does the Sienna. The Land Cruiser's 4.7-liter V- 8 is upgraded with variable valve timing, upping power to 275 horsepower, 40 more than previously, and the big truck gets a new grille, headlamps, and taillamps. The RAV4 is scheduled for a major redesign later this year. Unchanged: Highlander, Sequoia, Tacoma, Tundra.
Future: The FJ Cruiser, a boxy two-door SUV with military overtones. A "heavy duty" pickup to compete with the likes of Ford's Super Duty. And a bigger Tundra that will be built in San Antonio in late 2006.
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The Avalon, introduced early for '06, is a larger, more powerful, and better-looking version of what had been a pretty anonymous sedan, despite its position at the top of Toyota's line. The Prius hybrid gets redesigned front and rear lamps, new colors, and more luxury options such as a leather interior and a rearview camera. Otherwise, Toyota is concentrating on solidifying its lead in the hybrid race—it plans to double global production of these vehicles to 500,000 next year.
Unchanged: Camry, Camry Solara, Corolla, Corolla Matrix, Echo.
Dead: MR2 Spyder, Celica.
Future: More hybrids, including built-in-North America Prius and Camry, and an Echo replacement. Toyota's truck line adds a Highlander hybrid powered by a 208-hp six-cylinder engine and an electric motor. The 4Runner gets a mild facial, new colors, and a few trim and equipment upgrades, as does the Sienna. The Land Cruiser's 4.7-liter V- 8 is upgraded with variable valve timing, upping power to 275 horsepower, 40 more than previously, and the big truck gets a new grille, headlamps, and taillamps. The RAV4 is scheduled for a major redesign later this year. Unchanged: Highlander, Sequoia, Tacoma, Tundra.
Future: The FJ Cruiser, a boxy two-door SUV with military overtones. A "heavy duty" pickup to compete with the likes of Ford's Super Duty. And a bigger Tundra that will be built in San Antonio in late 2006.
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