Twist the end section to operate the first INT or second ON speed settings for the rear wipers The washer function activates the washer fluid and several sweeps of the wipers For FRONT WASHER pull lever toward you For REAR WASHER push lever away from you headlight and turn signal control HEADLIGHT SWITCH Turn the headlight switch to the position to turn on the front parking tail license plate and instrument panel lights.
Turn the headlight switch to the position to turn on the headlights All other lights remain on HIGH BEAM Push the headlight switch forward to select the high beam function The blue indicator light illuminates Pull the headlight switch back to the original position to select the low beam The blue indicator light goes off Pull and release the headlight switch to flash the headlight high beams on and off TURN SIGNAL SWITCH Move the headlight control switch up or down to signal the turning direction When the turn is completed the turn signals cancel automatically To signal a lane change move the headlight control switch up or down to the point where the indicator light begins to flash but the headlight control switch does not latch AUTOMATIC HEADLIGHT OPERATION if so equipped The autolight system can Turn the headlights on automatically when it is dark Turn the headlights off automatically when it is light Keep the headlights on for 45 seconds after you turn the ignition switch to OFF and all doors are closed TO ACTIVATE THE AUTOLIGHT SYSTEM Turn the headlight switch to the AUTO position then turn the ignition switch to ON TO DEACTIVATE THE AUTOLIGHT SYSTEM Turn the headlight switch to the OFF FOG LIGHT OPERATION.
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Friday, April 30, 2010
2004 Nissan Quest Navigation System Manual
The brightness adjustment is at the lowest setting No map DVD ROM is inserted or it is inserted upside down The map display mode is switched off Remedy Adjust the settings to make the display brighter Insert the DVD ROM correctly Press the MAP button No voice guide is available or The volume is not high enough The screen is too dim The movement is slow There are a few darker or brighter dots in the display The volume is not set correctly or turned off Adjust the volume correctly The temperature in the vehicle is low This is inherent to displays This condition is a characteristic of liquid crystal displays Wait for the temperature in the vehicle to rise
This condition is not abnormal Stored location in the address book and other memory functions may be lost if the vehicle s battery is disconnected or becomes discharged for a long time If this should occur service the vehicle s battery as necessary and re enter the address book information Troubleshooting guide 13 3 REVIEW COPY 2004 Quest van Navigation System OM navi USA English nna 05 05 04 debbie VEHICLE ICON Symptom The location names differ between Planview and Birdview Possible cause This is because the displayed information is reduced so that the screen does not become too crowded There is also a chance that names of roads or locations will be displayed twice.
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This condition is not abnormal Stored location in the address book and other memory functions may be lost if the vehicle s battery is disconnected or becomes discharged for a long time If this should occur service the vehicle s battery as necessary and re enter the address book information Troubleshooting guide 13 3 REVIEW COPY 2004 Quest van Navigation System OM navi USA English nna 05 05 04 debbie VEHICLE ICON Symptom The location names differ between Planview and Birdview Possible cause This is because the displayed information is reduced so that the screen does not become too crowded There is also a chance that names of roads or locations will be displayed twice.
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1992 Mitsubishi Engine 4G61 4G63 4G64 Service Manual
Part Content:Lubrication system oil pump type cooling system water pump type and number, throttle position sensor, closed throttle position switch. Total resurfacing depth both cylinder head and cylinder block, overall height. The camshaft identification mark is stamped on the rear end of the camshaft, fuel pump driving cam diameter journal diameter.
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A Spec Rear Strut Bar Installation Guide for FIT GD
Installation Procedure:
- Open trunk hatch, and pull off cover for the strut tower bolts.
- Remove the 14mm OEM nuts (requires 14mm end wrench and 5mm Allen key)
- Once removed, thread on provided nut (16mm).
- Tighten down bolt to 20lbs with 16mm End-wretch.
- Add the bracket to both sides as shown.
- Bolt it down with the OEM Honda bolt, with a thin deep socket 14mm. (Also 20lbs)
- After you are done bolting down both sides, you will add the bar onto the bracket.
- Line the bar up center to the bracket.
- Then insert the strut bar Allen bolt (8mm) through the bracket/bar and thread on nut (15mm). Tighten them to 20lbs (crush bracket to bar).
- Then tighten the bar bolt (16mm) to lock the bar in place
- Go back and tighten all bolts to 20lbs.
- You are finished!
- Take for a test drive. If there is any noise coming from the installation, go back and retighten the bolts to appropriate specs.
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- Open trunk hatch, and pull off cover for the strut tower bolts.
- Remove the 14mm OEM nuts (requires 14mm end wrench and 5mm Allen key)
- Once removed, thread on provided nut (16mm).
- Tighten down bolt to 20lbs with 16mm End-wretch.
- Add the bracket to both sides as shown.
- Bolt it down with the OEM Honda bolt, with a thin deep socket 14mm. (Also 20lbs)
- After you are done bolting down both sides, you will add the bar onto the bracket.
- Line the bar up center to the bracket.
- Then insert the strut bar Allen bolt (8mm) through the bracket/bar and thread on nut (15mm). Tighten them to 20lbs (crush bracket to bar).
- Then tighten the bar bolt (16mm) to lock the bar in place
- Go back and tighten all bolts to 20lbs.
- You are finished!
- Take for a test drive. If there is any noise coming from the installation, go back and retighten the bolts to appropriate specs.
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Packing & Caring For Your Giant Loop Saddlebag
Packing Tips
• Do not overstuff or over-load Saddlebag. The whole concept here is to tour with the lightest load possible. Go lighter, go faster.
• See fig A. Pack sleeping bag first by pulling through one side opening and out the other to distribute volume evenly. Then, pack other items to evenly distribute the load from side-to-side. Last things to go in: tools and rain gear.
• To avoid wearing through the pack from vibrations, pack all sharp and/or hard items inside a protective layer. For example, create a sleeve for tire irons from a section of old inner tuber and pack other tools in Dave’s Oil Bottle Toolkit; wrap other hard items in clothing.
• Use compression straps to secure tent, tarp, bivy sack, sleeping pad, rain gear and other lightweight items to outside of bag.
• Although Giant Loop Saddlebags are water resistant, they are not totally dust or waterproof. These are built with 1050 Ballistic Cordura, literally the toughest product we could find but if you are going to be in torrential rain, pack gear inside heavy-duty trash bags or waterproof stuff sacks, then secure in or on bag. Been there and that actually works.
• Visit our website at GiantLoopMoto.com for more tips from riders and instructions for creating Dave’s Oil Bottle Toolkit and Inner Tube Sleeve.
Care & Washing
• Do not overstuff or over-load Saddlebag. Consult your motorcycle’s owner’s manual and do not exceed the total gear and rider weight limitations for your bike. Remember: the Giant Loop Saddlebag is all about going ultra-light. Pack only what you need, nothing more or less (see Packing Tips).
• Avoid exposure to fuel, solvents, lubricants and excessive UV from direct sunlight.
• Hand wash Saddlebag with mild soap (like Simple Green), rinse with clean water and air dry (preferably not in direct sunlight).
• To neutralize and remove residue from alkai desert soils, wash Saddlebag with a mild vinegar and water solution (one tablespoon vinegar to one gallon of water). Rinse thoroughly with fresh water and air dry.
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• Do not overstuff or over-load Saddlebag. The whole concept here is to tour with the lightest load possible. Go lighter, go faster.
• See fig A. Pack sleeping bag first by pulling through one side opening and out the other to distribute volume evenly. Then, pack other items to evenly distribute the load from side-to-side. Last things to go in: tools and rain gear.
• To avoid wearing through the pack from vibrations, pack all sharp and/or hard items inside a protective layer. For example, create a sleeve for tire irons from a section of old inner tuber and pack other tools in Dave’s Oil Bottle Toolkit; wrap other hard items in clothing.
• Use compression straps to secure tent, tarp, bivy sack, sleeping pad, rain gear and other lightweight items to outside of bag.
• Although Giant Loop Saddlebags are water resistant, they are not totally dust or waterproof. These are built with 1050 Ballistic Cordura, literally the toughest product we could find but if you are going to be in torrential rain, pack gear inside heavy-duty trash bags or waterproof stuff sacks, then secure in or on bag. Been there and that actually works.
• Visit our website at GiantLoopMoto.com for more tips from riders and instructions for creating Dave’s Oil Bottle Toolkit and Inner Tube Sleeve.
Care & Washing
• Do not overstuff or over-load Saddlebag. Consult your motorcycle’s owner’s manual and do not exceed the total gear and rider weight limitations for your bike. Remember: the Giant Loop Saddlebag is all about going ultra-light. Pack only what you need, nothing more or less (see Packing Tips).
• Avoid exposure to fuel, solvents, lubricants and excessive UV from direct sunlight.
• Hand wash Saddlebag with mild soap (like Simple Green), rinse with clean water and air dry (preferably not in direct sunlight).
• To neutralize and remove residue from alkai desert soils, wash Saddlebag with a mild vinegar and water solution (one tablespoon vinegar to one gallon of water). Rinse thoroughly with fresh water and air dry.
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Thursday, April 29, 2010
Mitsubishi L300 Engine Inspection Procedure
POWER STEERING OIL PUMP DRIVE BELT TENSION CHECK AND ADJUSTMENT : With your finger tip lightly tap the centre of the belt between the pulleys in the location shown by the arrow in the illustration and then measure the belt vibration frequency. Apply 98N of pressure against the location between the pulleys shown by the arrow in the illustration and then measure the deflection.
AIR CONDITIONER COMPRESSOR DRIVE BELT TENSION CHECK AND ADJUSTMENT. (1) Loosen tension pulley fixing nut. (2) Adjust belt tension with adjusting bolt. (3) Tighten fixing nut. (4) Check the belt deflection amount and tension, and readjust if necessary. Caution Check after turning the crankshaft once or more clockwise. Check that ignition timing is at the standard value. Standard value. Before inspection, set the vehicle to the pre-inspection condition. Replace the three way catalyst when the CO contents are not within the standard value, even though the result of the inspection is normal on al items. Attach a three-way union to the vacuum hose between the fuel pressure regulator and the air intake plenum, and connect a vacuum gauge.
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AIR CONDITIONER COMPRESSOR DRIVE BELT TENSION CHECK AND ADJUSTMENT. (1) Loosen tension pulley fixing nut. (2) Adjust belt tension with adjusting bolt. (3) Tighten fixing nut. (4) Check the belt deflection amount and tension, and readjust if necessary. Caution Check after turning the crankshaft once or more clockwise. Check that ignition timing is at the standard value. Standard value. Before inspection, set the vehicle to the pre-inspection condition. Replace the three way catalyst when the CO contents are not within the standard value, even though the result of the inspection is normal on al items. Attach a three-way union to the vacuum hose between the fuel pressure regulator and the air intake plenum, and connect a vacuum gauge.
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2006 Toyota 4 Runner Wiring Diagram
Part content: ignition coil and igniter, charging system, junction connector, combination meter, engine control, air injection control driver data link connector 3, engine control module. Skid control ECU with actuator suspension, camshaft timing control valve LH, Multiplex Communication System. Engine Immobilisers System.
Transponder Key Computer,Security Indicator Light, Back Door Power Window Control SW, Ignition Key Cylinder Light, Turn Signal and Hazard Warning Light System, Door Lock Control SW Front LH Power Window Master SW. Door Key Lock and Unlock SW Front LH Door Lock Detection SW Front LH Door Lock Motor Front LH, Back Door Power Window Motor, Taillight and Illumination. Electronically Controlled Transmission and A /T Indicator. A BS , TRAC, VSC , Auto LSD, Downhill Assist Control and Hill–Start Assist Control.
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Transponder Key Computer,Security Indicator Light, Back Door Power Window Control SW, Ignition Key Cylinder Light, Turn Signal and Hazard Warning Light System, Door Lock Control SW Front LH Power Window Master SW. Door Key Lock and Unlock SW Front LH Door Lock Detection SW Front LH Door Lock Motor Front LH, Back Door Power Window Motor, Taillight and Illumination. Electronically Controlled Transmission and A /T Indicator. A BS , TRAC, VSC , Auto LSD, Downhill Assist Control and Hill–Start Assist Control.
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Design and Function Volkswagen Golf MK5 The 2.0L FSI Turbocharged Engine
Fuel system overview : Demand-Controlled Fuel System, Low Pressure System, High Pressure System. Fuel System Components : Fuel Pump Control Module J538, Transfer Fuel Pump G6, High Pressure Fuel Pump with Fuel Pressure Regulator Valve N276, High Pressure Fuel Pump, High Pressure Fuel Pump Operation, Low Fuel Pressure Sensor G410, Fuel Pressure Sensor G247, Cylinder Fuel Injectors N30–N33, Fuel Injector Operation, Pressure Limiting Valve, Connector Fitting with Restrictor.
Engine Management : Modes of Operation, Actuators and Sensor Diagram, Functional Diagram. Service : Special Tools. Crankshaft The crankshaft meets the tough demands of the turbo FSI engine. The main bearing flanges and journals are designed to provide as much strength as possible. Engine Block The cylinder contact surfaces of the cast iron engine block are honed by means of liquid blasting. This type of honing shortens the run-in time of the engine. Engine Balance Shaft : The balance shaft assembly used in the engine: Optimizes engine vibrations, Has an oil pump with a wide gear, Has a pressure control regulator integrated into the balance shaft assembly.
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Engine Management : Modes of Operation, Actuators and Sensor Diagram, Functional Diagram. Service : Special Tools. Crankshaft The crankshaft meets the tough demands of the turbo FSI engine. The main bearing flanges and journals are designed to provide as much strength as possible. Engine Block The cylinder contact surfaces of the cast iron engine block are honed by means of liquid blasting. This type of honing shortens the run-in time of the engine. Engine Balance Shaft : The balance shaft assembly used in the engine: Optimizes engine vibrations, Has an oil pump with a wide gear, Has a pressure control regulator integrated into the balance shaft assembly.
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Electronic Signal Modifier Instructions
These instructions are only a guide to proper installation. It is the technicians’ responsibility to confirm all connections are correct, use of the proper factory service manual is recommended. We recommend that only a competent and qualified mechanic perform this installation
1) Disconnect negative terminal of battery.
2) Confirm correct plug, pin # and wire colors on ECU and ESM match the diagram provided. All connections are in one plug, check diagram for your vehicle. If there is any discrepancy between your car and the instructions consult the factory service manual to confirm proper pin locations.
3) Locate and confirm Signal wire from MAP sensor to ECU. Cut wire approximately 2” from plug. Strip a 1/2” of jacket off each end of the signal wire to expose the bare wire. Using the smaller of the two solder splice connectors (Clear adhesive ring) connect the signal from the ECU to the green wire on the ESM. Using the other small/clear solder splice connector connect the signal wire from the MAP sensor to the blue wire on the ESM.
4) Locate and confirm the MAP sensor ground wire. Cut the wire approximately 2” from plug. Strip a 1/2” of jacket off each end of the ground wire to expose the bare wire. Using the larger solder splice connector (red adhesive ring) connect the black wire from the ESM to the ground wire. On one side of the solder splice connector you will have one wire coming from the ECU into it and on the other side you will have two wires going into it, one from the MAP sensor along with the black wire from the ESM.
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1) Disconnect negative terminal of battery.
2) Confirm correct plug, pin # and wire colors on ECU and ESM match the diagram provided. All connections are in one plug, check diagram for your vehicle. If there is any discrepancy between your car and the instructions consult the factory service manual to confirm proper pin locations.
3) Locate and confirm Signal wire from MAP sensor to ECU. Cut wire approximately 2” from plug. Strip a 1/2” of jacket off each end of the signal wire to expose the bare wire. Using the smaller of the two solder splice connectors (Clear adhesive ring) connect the signal from the ECU to the green wire on the ESM. Using the other small/clear solder splice connector connect the signal wire from the MAP sensor to the blue wire on the ESM.
4) Locate and confirm the MAP sensor ground wire. Cut the wire approximately 2” from plug. Strip a 1/2” of jacket off each end of the ground wire to expose the bare wire. Using the larger solder splice connector (red adhesive ring) connect the black wire from the ESM to the ground wire. On one side of the solder splice connector you will have one wire coming from the ECU into it and on the other side you will have two wires going into it, one from the MAP sensor along with the black wire from the ESM.
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Wednesday, April 28, 2010
BOOSTZILA Super Charging System for the Acura/Honda NSX Installation
Preparation Steps for Fuel System Installation
A: Adjust both seats to full forward position with seat backs in full upright position.
B: Disconnect the negative battery cable.
C: Remove the 5 rear interior panels starting with the long piece across the width of the car just beneath the rear glass. Next remove the two flat panels located behind the seats. Next remove the two corner pieces. Lastly, remove the rear center speaker and cover assembly. (The long panel across the width has 3 push lock barbed style securing pins w/one on each end and one in the center) (The 2 flat panels have 4 push lock barbed securing pins each, w/each barb located a couple of inches from each corner of the panels) (The corner sections are held in place with 3 Philips screws which become exposed after the flat panels are removed)
D: Remove the engine cover.
E: Remove the strut brace from the engine compartment.
F: Remove the stock air box assembly.
G: Remove the fuel rail covers, the engine name plate cover, and the intake manifold metal cover.
H: Carefully raise car using an automotive lift. If no automotive lift is available use a floor jack. If using a floor jack raise the vehicle as high as possible to safely get 4 jack stands under the unit body in the appropriate factory recommended positions. The car must be high enough to remove the fuel tank.
I: Remove the rear wheels at this time.
J: Relieve the fuel pressure in the fuel tank by loosening the gas cap.
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A: Adjust both seats to full forward position with seat backs in full upright position.
B: Disconnect the negative battery cable.
C: Remove the 5 rear interior panels starting with the long piece across the width of the car just beneath the rear glass. Next remove the two flat panels located behind the seats. Next remove the two corner pieces. Lastly, remove the rear center speaker and cover assembly. (The long panel across the width has 3 push lock barbed style securing pins w/one on each end and one in the center) (The 2 flat panels have 4 push lock barbed securing pins each, w/each barb located a couple of inches from each corner of the panels) (The corner sections are held in place with 3 Philips screws which become exposed after the flat panels are removed)
D: Remove the engine cover.
E: Remove the strut brace from the engine compartment.
F: Remove the stock air box assembly.
G: Remove the fuel rail covers, the engine name plate cover, and the intake manifold metal cover.
H: Carefully raise car using an automotive lift. If no automotive lift is available use a floor jack. If using a floor jack raise the vehicle as high as possible to safely get 4 jack stands under the unit body in the appropriate factory recommended positions. The car must be high enough to remove the fuel tank.
I: Remove the rear wheels at this time.
J: Relieve the fuel pressure in the fuel tank by loosening the gas cap.
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Subaru Impreza P1 2000 Workshop Manual
Conduct the tightening procedures by confirming the turning angle of the crankshaft pulley bolt referring to the gauge indicated on the belt cover. Install V-belt air conditioning compressor drive belt tensioner and V-belt cover. cylinder block : check for cracks and damage visually, especially, inspect important parts by means of red lead check. Check the oil passages for clogging.
Inspect crankcase surface that mates with cylinder head for warping by using a straight edge, and correct by grinding if necessary. Cylinder and piston. Measurement should be performed at a temperature of 20 degree. If piston ring is broken, damaged, or worn, or if its tension is insufficient, or when the piston is replaced, replace piston ring with a new one of the same size as the piston.
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Inspect crankcase surface that mates with cylinder head for warping by using a straight edge, and correct by grinding if necessary. Cylinder and piston. Measurement should be performed at a temperature of 20 degree. If piston ring is broken, damaged, or worn, or if its tension is insufficient, or when the piston is replaced, replace piston ring with a new one of the same size as the piston.
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HyperDrive Startup Guide
Remove the handle and mount it to the side of the engine with three, 3/8″ bolts. Be careful not to stretch the handle wires and cables. The washers and nylock nuts installon the inside of the handle mount near the slots. The handle bolts must be snug enough to hold the handle firmly, but yet allow the handle to move up and down freely.
Unscrew the mounting clamps wide enough to easily slip over your transom. Do not use tools to tighten the clamp handles.
Mounting: When you mount the motor, it will be 1″ off center, away from the operator side of the boat, or to the left when standing near the transom facing the bow. (the Hyper propeller runs on the surface and pulls slightly to the left. By offsetting the engine, this helps reduce prop torque.) Place a mark at that point to facilitate quick mounting. When you run the Hyper, if it still pulls, you can bend the lower skeg (which is already prebent). Only do this after you have run the motor an hour or so and get accustomed to the tilt and trim adjustment. If the engine is trimmed up too far, it will also pull to one side.
- Carefully lift the motor and set it on the transom. Again, being careful not to jar or tweak the handle mounting cups. When in place, snug up the mounting clamps hand tight. If you have an older boat with a worn or a weak transom, you can add a piece of plywood or metal plate between the boat and mounting clamps. Two mounting bracket holes are provided in the mount face if you want to add 3/8″ bolts to the mount. They help hold the engine in place and deter theft.
- Connect the battery cables to the battery. We provided a group 24 size battery box. We recommend a group 24 marine cranking battery with 550 cranking amps or more. Red to (+) and black to ( -). Rotate the engine back and forth to ensure the cables travel freely.
- Electric Tilt and Trim: Read the cautions for its use on the control panel. Most importantly, don’t force the drive up or down with the handle while the actuator is running. Do not rock the actuator control back and forth causing the motor to forward and then in reverse while running. This can cause premature failure. Engine Oil: Add oil to your engine. Use a good grade of synthetic 10W-30 oil. Check the dipstick with the engine in the level position. You can use a synthetic or synthetic blend.
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Unscrew the mounting clamps wide enough to easily slip over your transom. Do not use tools to tighten the clamp handles.
Mounting: When you mount the motor, it will be 1″ off center, away from the operator side of the boat, or to the left when standing near the transom facing the bow. (the Hyper propeller runs on the surface and pulls slightly to the left. By offsetting the engine, this helps reduce prop torque.) Place a mark at that point to facilitate quick mounting. When you run the Hyper, if it still pulls, you can bend the lower skeg (which is already prebent). Only do this after you have run the motor an hour or so and get accustomed to the tilt and trim adjustment. If the engine is trimmed up too far, it will also pull to one side.
- Carefully lift the motor and set it on the transom. Again, being careful not to jar or tweak the handle mounting cups. When in place, snug up the mounting clamps hand tight. If you have an older boat with a worn or a weak transom, you can add a piece of plywood or metal plate between the boat and mounting clamps. Two mounting bracket holes are provided in the mount face if you want to add 3/8″ bolts to the mount. They help hold the engine in place and deter theft.
- Connect the battery cables to the battery. We provided a group 24 size battery box. We recommend a group 24 marine cranking battery with 550 cranking amps or more. Red to (+) and black to ( -). Rotate the engine back and forth to ensure the cables travel freely.
- Electric Tilt and Trim: Read the cautions for its use on the control panel. Most importantly, don’t force the drive up or down with the handle while the actuator is running. Do not rock the actuator control back and forth causing the motor to forward and then in reverse while running. This can cause premature failure. Engine Oil: Add oil to your engine. Use a good grade of synthetic 10W-30 oil. Check the dipstick with the engine in the level position. You can use a synthetic or synthetic blend.
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Tuesday, April 27, 2010
03-Up Honda Pilot Step Bar Assemblies Installation Instructions
1. Remove contents and check for damage. Verify all parts are present. Read instructions completely before installation.
2. Locate driver side mounting locations on vehicle (See Figure 1and 2). Repeat for passenger side.
3. Attach driver side front and rear mounting brackets to underside of rocker panel as shown using M8 hex bolts, 5/16” flat washer and 5/16” lock washer. Hand tighten only (See Figure 1 and 2). Repeat for passenger side.
4. Place driver side step bar on saddles with Logo facing outwards. Assemble with 3/8” hardware. Hand tighten (See Figure 3 and 4). Repeat for passenger side.
5. Check step bars and brackets for proper alignment. Tighten and torque 3/8” hardware to 32 ft-lbs and M8 hex bolts to 25 ft-lbs.
Finish protection - Westin products have a high quality finish that must be cared for like any other exposed finish on the vehicle. Protect the finish with a non-abrasive automotive wax (pure carnauba, for example) on a regular basis. The use of cleaner wax or any compound which contains an abrasive is detrimental, as the compounds scratch the finish and open it to corrosion.
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2. Locate driver side mounting locations on vehicle (See Figure 1and 2). Repeat for passenger side.
3. Attach driver side front and rear mounting brackets to underside of rocker panel as shown using M8 hex bolts, 5/16” flat washer and 5/16” lock washer. Hand tighten only (See Figure 1 and 2). Repeat for passenger side.
4. Place driver side step bar on saddles with Logo facing outwards. Assemble with 3/8” hardware. Hand tighten (See Figure 3 and 4). Repeat for passenger side.
5. Check step bars and brackets for proper alignment. Tighten and torque 3/8” hardware to 32 ft-lbs and M8 hex bolts to 25 ft-lbs.
Finish protection - Westin products have a high quality finish that must be cared for like any other exposed finish on the vehicle. Protect the finish with a non-abrasive automotive wax (pure carnauba, for example) on a regular basis. The use of cleaner wax or any compound which contains an abrasive is detrimental, as the compounds scratch the finish and open it to corrosion.
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1989 BMW 325i 325is Electrical Troubleshooting Manual
The purpose of this manual is to show electrical schematics in a manner that makes electrical troubleshooting easier. electrical components which work together are shoen together on one schematic. The Wiper washer schematic for example, shows all of the electrical components in one diagram. Schematic troubleshooting : verify the problem, analyze the problem, isolate the problem, repair the problem, check the problem.
Troubleshooting tools, troubleshooting tests. Power distribution box, charge, start, injection electronics, brake warning system, antilock braking system, power mirrors, central locking, power windows, sunroof, body electrical, ignition key/warning/seatbelt warning, wiper/washer, instrument cluster, active check control, heating and air conditioning and more.
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Troubleshooting tools, troubleshooting tests. Power distribution box, charge, start, injection electronics, brake warning system, antilock braking system, power mirrors, central locking, power windows, sunroof, body electrical, ignition key/warning/seatbelt warning, wiper/washer, instrument cluster, active check control, heating and air conditioning and more.
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Honda CBR 600RR/1000RR Sequential LED Tail Light Installation Guide
Installation Guide:
1. Removing factory tail light. Seat removal needed (2 alien bolts and slide it outj.Upper tail needs to be removed (4 alien bolts and gently pull up and back - remove left and right side covers first). Disconnect factory tail light harness.
2. Unscrew two screws holding bracket to upper tail. Remove bracket and swap over to new LED tail light. Take note the order of the washers. Locate and disconnect the factory signal connectors (blue and orange). Remove factory signals
3. Connect the sub harness shorter end to the blue and yellow wire respectively on the tail light, insulate with green cover. Connect main 3-wire harness.
4. Connect the longer end of sub harness: Blue/Black to the Honda orange connector Yellow/Black to the Honda blue connector. Secure sub harness with cable ties, etc and reverse procedure for reinstalling the tail lamp. Test all functions before re-assembling upper tail.
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1. Removing factory tail light. Seat removal needed (2 alien bolts and slide it outj.Upper tail needs to be removed (4 alien bolts and gently pull up and back - remove left and right side covers first). Disconnect factory tail light harness.
2. Unscrew two screws holding bracket to upper tail. Remove bracket and swap over to new LED tail light. Take note the order of the washers. Locate and disconnect the factory signal connectors (blue and orange). Remove factory signals
3. Connect the sub harness shorter end to the blue and yellow wire respectively on the tail light, insulate with green cover. Connect main 3-wire harness.
4. Connect the longer end of sub harness: Blue/Black to the Honda orange connector Yellow/Black to the Honda blue connector. Secure sub harness with cable ties, etc and reverse procedure for reinstalling the tail lamp. Test all functions before re-assembling upper tail.
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Kawasaki Teryx 750 ATV Clutch Kit Instructions
The instructions we provide are guidelines only and will not thoroughly explain how to set up a racing vehicle. Claims of performance gains, durability, etc. are based on the experience of TEAM Industries and others and do not constitute a guarantee of similar performance in every application. We believe that the contents and specifications within this set of instructions are correct. We assume no liability for any errors in model applications. We reserve the right to change specifications, product descriptions, product quality and application at any time without notice.
Make sure your current clutches are free of fatigue, cracks, wear, etc. TEAM clutch components are produced with high quality materials and a controlled procedure. Never alter TEAM Industries clutch components.
1. Remove both seats from the vehicle. Next, remove the passenger side lower body panel. There is a mixture of Philips head screws and also plastic push pin fasteners that have to be removed.
2. With the side panel off, the next item to remove is the plastic housing over the engine. These are all “push in” style plastic clips that hold it in place. Once all the pins are out, you can slide the housing off and set it aside.
3. Now the lower long plastic panel under the seat has to be removed (again mainly plastic push clips to remove). Once they are all out, carefully remove and set aside.
4. Next, remove the fuel tank. Remove the two lines on the top of the tank. There are two straps that hold the tank in place. Remove the bolt from each strap, remove the straps, and lift the fuel tank out.
5. Now the bracket that holds the fuel pump on has to be removed. There are two bolts here to take out. Once this is done, mark the two wires to the coil and disconnect them. Set the bracket out of the way.
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Make sure your current clutches are free of fatigue, cracks, wear, etc. TEAM clutch components are produced with high quality materials and a controlled procedure. Never alter TEAM Industries clutch components.
1. Remove both seats from the vehicle. Next, remove the passenger side lower body panel. There is a mixture of Philips head screws and also plastic push pin fasteners that have to be removed.
2. With the side panel off, the next item to remove is the plastic housing over the engine. These are all “push in” style plastic clips that hold it in place. Once all the pins are out, you can slide the housing off and set it aside.
3. Now the lower long plastic panel under the seat has to be removed (again mainly plastic push clips to remove). Once they are all out, carefully remove and set aside.
4. Next, remove the fuel tank. Remove the two lines on the top of the tank. There are two straps that hold the tank in place. Remove the bolt from each strap, remove the straps, and lift the fuel tank out.
5. Now the bracket that holds the fuel pump on has to be removed. There are two bolts here to take out. Once this is done, mark the two wires to the coil and disconnect them. Set the bracket out of the way.
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1993 Honda Prelude Transmission Removal & Installation
1) Disconnect negative battery cable and ground strap at transaxle. Disconnect positive battery cable. Remove battery and battery base. Remove drain plug, and drain transaxle fluid (remove fill plug to speed draining). Install drain plug with NEW washer, and tighten plug to specification. See TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS TABLE at the end of this article.
2) Disconnect wiring for starter motor, transaxle lock-up control solenoid and shift control solenoid. Remove starter. Disconnect mainshaft and countershaft speed sensor connectors. Remove complete air cleaner case assembly. Disconnect and remove throttle control cable at transaxle bracket.
3) Disconnect oil cooler hoses at joint pipes. Plug and support hoses aside. Remove transaxle upper mount bracket and rear stiffener. Remove vehicle speed sensor from transaxle without removing power steering hoses. Remove 4 upper transaxle mounting bolts.
CAUTION: When removing CV joint and drive axle assembly from transaxle, DO NOT pull on drive axle or knuckle. Inboard CV joint may separate. Pull on inboard joint.
4) Raise and support vehicle, and remove front wheels. Remove engine splash shield. Remove center crossmember bolts, and remove crossmember. Remove shock strut damper fork bolts and separate strut damper from fork. Remove right radius rod from control arm and frame. While prying on inboard CV joints, remove both drive axles from transaxle. Remove or support shafts aside. Protect inner CV joint spline from contamination by covering drive axle end by covering it with a plastic bag. Remove left intermediate shaft.
5) Remove engine stiffener bracket from between lower transaxle and engine block. Remove torque converter cover plate. Manually turn crankshaft pulley clockwise to access and remove 8 torque converter mounting bolts from torque converter drive plate.
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2) Disconnect wiring for starter motor, transaxle lock-up control solenoid and shift control solenoid. Remove starter. Disconnect mainshaft and countershaft speed sensor connectors. Remove complete air cleaner case assembly. Disconnect and remove throttle control cable at transaxle bracket.
3) Disconnect oil cooler hoses at joint pipes. Plug and support hoses aside. Remove transaxle upper mount bracket and rear stiffener. Remove vehicle speed sensor from transaxle without removing power steering hoses. Remove 4 upper transaxle mounting bolts.
CAUTION: When removing CV joint and drive axle assembly from transaxle, DO NOT pull on drive axle or knuckle. Inboard CV joint may separate. Pull on inboard joint.
4) Raise and support vehicle, and remove front wheels. Remove engine splash shield. Remove center crossmember bolts, and remove crossmember. Remove shock strut damper fork bolts and separate strut damper from fork. Remove right radius rod from control arm and frame. While prying on inboard CV joints, remove both drive axles from transaxle. Remove or support shafts aside. Protect inner CV joint spline from contamination by covering drive axle end by covering it with a plastic bag. Remove left intermediate shaft.
5) Remove engine stiffener bracket from between lower transaxle and engine block. Remove torque converter cover plate. Manually turn crankshaft pulley clockwise to access and remove 8 torque converter mounting bolts from torque converter drive plate.
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01-06 Acura MDX Cabin Air Filter Replacement for OEM
1. The filter is located behind the glove compartment. Unscrew the 2 screws at the bottom of the glove box cover to loosen the it. Remove glove box and set it aside.
2. Cut the plastic cover along the dotted lines shown and remove it. Dispose off plastic cover, it is no longer needed. This exposes the metal cross bar under it. Locate and remove 2 additional bolts securing bar. Remove and set it aside.
3. The filter access door is now accessible. Pull on the top and bottom tabs to release door. Remove door and set it aside.
TYC #: 800079P
Estimated Time : 25 min.
3. Grab onto handle and slide out old filter. Replace with new TYC filter, ensuring that Air Flow arrow is pointing to the driver’s side.
4. Reinstall in reverse order.
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2. Cut the plastic cover along the dotted lines shown and remove it. Dispose off plastic cover, it is no longer needed. This exposes the metal cross bar under it. Locate and remove 2 additional bolts securing bar. Remove and set it aside.
3. The filter access door is now accessible. Pull on the top and bottom tabs to release door. Remove door and set it aside.
TYC #: 800079P
Estimated Time : 25 min.
3. Grab onto handle and slide out old filter. Replace with new TYC filter, ensuring that Air Flow arrow is pointing to the driver’s side.
4. Reinstall in reverse order.
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ECT Display Driver – Installation for AP2 Module
The ECT Display Driver is a small module with a removable wire harness that mounts behind the driver’s foot well cover. All wiring connections are near the ECM and only 4 wires are needed for basic operation:
• +5v power from the ECM (T-tap)
• Ground – available at ECM mounting bolt
• ECT sensor wire (T-tap at ECM)
• Dash temperature gauge wire (must cut at ECM)
If you want to use the optional Alarm Output feature 3 more wires are needed:
• Ground (must be run separate from the module’s power ground)
• Module output (negative) to your alarm device (sounder or indicator light, not included)
• +12v ignition or accessory power wired directly to your alarm device
Installation Details: refer to the photos and wiring diagram at the end of this manual
1. Remove the driver’s side doorsill trim and the driver’s foot well trim. (if you don’t know how to do this you probably shouldn’t be doing this modification)
2. Locate the connectors and wires you will be using, see photos at the end of this manual.
a. Temperature gauge wire (Yellow/Green) – Easily seen at the top left of connector A on the ECM.
b. Power wire for +5v (Yellow/Blue) – This is on the rear-most row of wires on connector C, in the ‘middle’ section of the connector. You will have to remove connector C from the ECM to locate this wire
c. ECT Sensor wire (Red/White) – This is also on the rear-most row of wires on connector C, in the ‘middle’ section of the connector.
3. Attach crimp connectors to the ECM wires as detailed below.
a. Using a pair of pliers, clamp one of the red T-taps around the Yellow/Blue wire in connector C, making sure the wire goes into the metal slot of the T-tap. If you have strong fingers you can squeeze the T-tap on the wire to hold it temporarily, then use the pliers to clamp it shut. Or, you can position the T-tap in the pliers’ jaw, then clamp it on the wire.
b. Crimp another T-tap around the Red/White wire in connector C.
c. Now cut the Yellow/Green wire a few inches away from the ECM and strip about ž” of insulation from each end.
d. Using a crimp tool, crimp a female spade connector on the end of the Yellow/Green wire that comes from the ECM.
e. Next crimp a male spade connector on the other end of the Yellow/Green wire (the end going into the wire bundle).
f. Note that the ends of the Yellow/Green wire have opposite connectors. If you ever have to remove the ECT Module you simply plug these connectors together and the temperature gauge will work like normal.
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• +5v power from the ECM (T-tap)
• Ground – available at ECM mounting bolt
• ECT sensor wire (T-tap at ECM)
• Dash temperature gauge wire (must cut at ECM)
If you want to use the optional Alarm Output feature 3 more wires are needed:
• Ground (must be run separate from the module’s power ground)
• Module output (negative) to your alarm device (sounder or indicator light, not included)
• +12v ignition or accessory power wired directly to your alarm device
Installation Details: refer to the photos and wiring diagram at the end of this manual
1. Remove the driver’s side doorsill trim and the driver’s foot well trim. (if you don’t know how to do this you probably shouldn’t be doing this modification)
2. Locate the connectors and wires you will be using, see photos at the end of this manual.
a. Temperature gauge wire (Yellow/Green) – Easily seen at the top left of connector A on the ECM.
b. Power wire for +5v (Yellow/Blue) – This is on the rear-most row of wires on connector C, in the ‘middle’ section of the connector. You will have to remove connector C from the ECM to locate this wire
c. ECT Sensor wire (Red/White) – This is also on the rear-most row of wires on connector C, in the ‘middle’ section of the connector.
3. Attach crimp connectors to the ECM wires as detailed below.
a. Using a pair of pliers, clamp one of the red T-taps around the Yellow/Blue wire in connector C, making sure the wire goes into the metal slot of the T-tap. If you have strong fingers you can squeeze the T-tap on the wire to hold it temporarily, then use the pliers to clamp it shut. Or, you can position the T-tap in the pliers’ jaw, then clamp it on the wire.
b. Crimp another T-tap around the Red/White wire in connector C.
c. Now cut the Yellow/Green wire a few inches away from the ECM and strip about ž” of insulation from each end.
d. Using a crimp tool, crimp a female spade connector on the end of the Yellow/Green wire that comes from the ECM.
e. Next crimp a male spade connector on the other end of the Yellow/Green wire (the end going into the wire bundle).
f. Note that the ends of the Yellow/Green wire have opposite connectors. If you ever have to remove the ECT Module you simply plug these connectors together and the temperature gauge will work like normal.
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Monday, April 26, 2010
CAT-303 Installation and Parts Manual
Installation Environment
1) The distance between the unit and outside wall or other goods should be kept over 200mm.The unit should be put in well-ventilated area and its temperature is within -10℃~+40 .℃
2) Check air supply pipeline of the unit and use air source with 3~10 bar to supply for the unit. When connecting the air source, please check if there is leakage in connector for air source and ensure that a certain distance between the air hose and heat source should be kept.
3) To ensure safety. Before connecting the air source, please confirm that the air pressure adjusting valve is closed. Never point the air outlet to personnel.
Connecting Hose
1) Lift the vehicle to proper height with lifter.
2) Remove the hose between the auto transmission and radiator. See Fig.5.
3) Fill desired quantity of new ATF into the unit according to the vehicle type.
4) Connect the return hose of the unit to the outlet hose of the auto transmission.
5) Connect the outlet hose of the unit to the inlet hose of the radiator.
6) Connect the air inlet on the unit to compressed air. Please be sure that the needle valve is in the open state and the air pressure adjusting valve is in the closed state before connecting the compressed air.
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1) The distance between the unit and outside wall or other goods should be kept over 200mm.The unit should be put in well-ventilated area and its temperature is within -10℃~+40 .℃
2) Check air supply pipeline of the unit and use air source with 3~10 bar to supply for the unit. When connecting the air source, please check if there is leakage in connector for air source and ensure that a certain distance between the air hose and heat source should be kept.
3) To ensure safety. Before connecting the air source, please confirm that the air pressure adjusting valve is closed. Never point the air outlet to personnel.
Connecting Hose
1) Lift the vehicle to proper height with lifter.
2) Remove the hose between the auto transmission and radiator. See Fig.5.
3) Fill desired quantity of new ATF into the unit according to the vehicle type.
4) Connect the return hose of the unit to the outlet hose of the auto transmission.
5) Connect the outlet hose of the unit to the inlet hose of the radiator.
6) Connect the air inlet on the unit to compressed air. Please be sure that the needle valve is in the open state and the air pressure adjusting valve is in the closed state before connecting the compressed air.
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1998-2004 Audi A6 Service Manual Announcement
Even if you have no intention of working on your car, you will find that reading and owning this manual makes it possible to discuss repairs more intelligently with a professional technician.
Features:
• Maintenance procedures from changing the oil to replacing the dust and pollen filter. This manual tells you what to do and how and when to do it.
• Step-by-step engine timing belt service.
• Cylinder head cover and crankshaft seal replacement.
• Cooling system filling and bleeding, coolant pump replacement and engine cooling fan and radiator service.
• Fuel injection and ignition system diagrams and explanations, including three different Bosch Motronic engine management systems.
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Features:
• Maintenance procedures from changing the oil to replacing the dust and pollen filter. This manual tells you what to do and how and when to do it.
• Step-by-step engine timing belt service.
• Cylinder head cover and crankshaft seal replacement.
• Cooling system filling and bleeding, coolant pump replacement and engine cooling fan and radiator service.
• Fuel injection and ignition system diagrams and explanations, including three different Bosch Motronic engine management systems.
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Rev Speed Meter Instruction Manual
The RSM (Rev Speed Meter) is a multi function measuring device designed to measure and monitor vehicle speed, RPM, 0-400m time, mid range acceleration, estimated horsepower, as well as acceleration G.(Using optional G Sensor)
- Easy to Read VFD (Vacuum Fluorescent Display)
The RSM utilizes and easy to read VFD screen in a highly stylish case which also complements the cockpit interior.
Due to the 3 row 7 segment LED screen used on the previous model, we were only able to display a limited amout of information on screen. Now with the new dot matrix VFD screen, we are able to display multiple types of data in multiple for mats. In addition, we are also able to display the data in graph mode, and analog modes to ensure that the driver is properly informed.
- Thin Case/ Single Button Design
Circuit board and case design have been engineered to fit into a highly compact 52mm x 126mm x 18mm space. This allows easy mounting on the steering column and dashboard. Since the unit is self contained, there is no need to search for room to mount a control box. By using a single button design, we have also maximized efficiency when navigating through the menus.
- Allows Speed Limiter Cut for a variety of Applications Compatible with new style HONDA speed limiters.
- Retains MEMORY settings even with the battery disconnected By utilizing an EEPROM, the unit will not lose its memory settings even if the battery is disconnected, or the power is turned OFF. Of course, the best 5 Time Measurements are also constantly stored. This eliminates the necessity of reprogramming the unit every time after routine services.
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- Easy to Read VFD (Vacuum Fluorescent Display)
The RSM utilizes and easy to read VFD screen in a highly stylish case which also complements the cockpit interior.
Due to the 3 row 7 segment LED screen used on the previous model, we were only able to display a limited amout of information on screen. Now with the new dot matrix VFD screen, we are able to display multiple types of data in multiple for mats. In addition, we are also able to display the data in graph mode, and analog modes to ensure that the driver is properly informed.
- Thin Case/ Single Button Design
Circuit board and case design have been engineered to fit into a highly compact 52mm x 126mm x 18mm space. This allows easy mounting on the steering column and dashboard. Since the unit is self contained, there is no need to search for room to mount a control box. By using a single button design, we have also maximized efficiency when navigating through the menus.
- Allows Speed Limiter Cut for a variety of Applications Compatible with new style HONDA speed limiters.
- Retains MEMORY settings even with the battery disconnected By utilizing an EEPROM, the unit will not lose its memory settings even if the battery is disconnected, or the power is turned OFF. Of course, the best 5 Time Measurements are also constantly stored. This eliminates the necessity of reprogramming the unit every time after routine services.
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1999-2004 Honda Odyssey Bracketron Phone Mount Installation Intructions
Remove the bezel that surrounds the climate control and extends behind the transmission shifter. To do this, grasp the bezel behind the shifter and release the first clip. In the upper-right corner of the bezel, use the Dash Trim tool to work loose the remaining ten (10) clips that hold the bezel in place. Note: On vehicles without the navigation system and/or with the DVD, the climate controls will come off with the bezel. Note: On vehicles that have the navigation system, disconnect the emergency light switch connector, and interior lighting switch. Apply the emergency brake and turn the ignition to the on position. Place the transmission shifter into the neutral position. Pull the shifter lever toward you to allow clearance for the bezel to be removed. Place the bezel aside when removed.
Note: Vehicles without the navigation system and or DVD: Remove the four (4) screws that hold the radio/DVD in place. Set the screws aside.
Note: Vehicles with the navigation system: remove the six (6) screws that hold the radio/nav unit in place. Carefully pull the unit out far enough gain access to the right side of the unit. You can rest the unit in the cavity opening. Locate a metal bracket on the right side of the radio. Remove the screw closest to the front of unit. Loosen the back screw enough to slide the Bezel Mount under it. reinstall the factory front screw and tighten down the Bezel Mount. Note: With vehicles that have the DVD, the Custom Bezel Mount is secured with the two lower screws on the right side of the DVD player.
Reinstall the unit back into the cavity securing it with the factory screws. Reconnect all wiring to the bezel. When reinstalling the bezel, angle the bezel over the Custom Bezel Mount, then slide the bezel behind the shifter aligning the bezel to secure all the the bezel clips.
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Note: Vehicles without the navigation system and or DVD: Remove the four (4) screws that hold the radio/DVD in place. Set the screws aside.
Note: Vehicles with the navigation system: remove the six (6) screws that hold the radio/nav unit in place. Carefully pull the unit out far enough gain access to the right side of the unit. You can rest the unit in the cavity opening. Locate a metal bracket on the right side of the radio. Remove the screw closest to the front of unit. Loosen the back screw enough to slide the Bezel Mount under it. reinstall the factory front screw and tighten down the Bezel Mount. Note: With vehicles that have the DVD, the Custom Bezel Mount is secured with the two lower screws on the right side of the DVD player.
Reinstall the unit back into the cavity securing it with the factory screws. Reconnect all wiring to the bezel. When reinstalling the bezel, angle the bezel over the Custom Bezel Mount, then slide the bezel behind the shifter aligning the bezel to secure all the the bezel clips.
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Sunday, April 11, 2010
1998-2002 Honda Accord 4 Cyl. Cold Air System Installation
The AEM Cold Air System differs from all others in several ways. We take the inlet air from outside of the engine compartment where the inlet air is considerably cooler than the hot under hood air. The cooler inlet air temperature translates to more power during the combustion process because cool air is denser than warm air. AEM has conducted extensive inlet-air temperature studies and we have seen temperature reductions of up to 50 degrees by pulling air from outside of the engine compartment. Because of the increased airflow and reduced inlet temperature, the air-mass flow to the engine increases, this translates to more power.
Our system is constructed of lightweight aluminum and then painted with a zirconia based powder coat for superior heat insulating characteristics. The aluminum will not crack in extended use like plastic and it is actually lighter than plastic. For each engine, we match the tube’s diameter and length to promote power over a broad rpm range. Unlike the plastic systems that use a continually diverging cross section, we take advantage of the acoustical energy in the duct to promote cylinder filling during the intake valve-opening event.
Read and understand these instructions BEFORE attempting to install this product.
1. Make sure vehicle is parked on a level surface.
2. Set parking brake.
3. Disconnect negative battery terminal.
4. If engine has run within the past two hours let it cool down.
5. The following items will be removed from the vehicle.
(a) The OE inlet tube
(b) The air filter case
(c) Intake air noise resonators.
6. Removal of intake air tube.
(a) Disconnect the breather hose from the intake tube. The hose consists of a section of metal tubing between the intake tube and the cam cover.
7. Removal of air filter case.
(a) Remove the two mounting bolts for the air filter case and lift the case out.
8. Preparing the vehicle to accept the Cold Air System.
(a) From underneath the vehicle, remove the engine splash shield and the front left plastic fender liner.
i) The front plastic under-tray can be removed entirely for installation of the Cold Air System and the fender liner can be temporarily folded such that it does not interfere with the installation.
(b) Remove the bolts holding the lower resonator assembly and pull the assembly out from underneath the vehicle.
(c) Remove the two bolts securing the diagonal fender brace that is mounted between the battery and the passenger-side fender.
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Our system is constructed of lightweight aluminum and then painted with a zirconia based powder coat for superior heat insulating characteristics. The aluminum will not crack in extended use like plastic and it is actually lighter than plastic. For each engine, we match the tube’s diameter and length to promote power over a broad rpm range. Unlike the plastic systems that use a continually diverging cross section, we take advantage of the acoustical energy in the duct to promote cylinder filling during the intake valve-opening event.
Read and understand these instructions BEFORE attempting to install this product.
1. Make sure vehicle is parked on a level surface.
2. Set parking brake.
3. Disconnect negative battery terminal.
4. If engine has run within the past two hours let it cool down.
5. The following items will be removed from the vehicle.
(a) The OE inlet tube
(b) The air filter case
(c) Intake air noise resonators.
6. Removal of intake air tube.
(a) Disconnect the breather hose from the intake tube. The hose consists of a section of metal tubing between the intake tube and the cam cover.
7. Removal of air filter case.
(a) Remove the two mounting bolts for the air filter case and lift the case out.
8. Preparing the vehicle to accept the Cold Air System.
(a) From underneath the vehicle, remove the engine splash shield and the front left plastic fender liner.
i) The front plastic under-tray can be removed entirely for installation of the Cold Air System and the fender liner can be temporarily folded such that it does not interfere with the installation.
(b) Remove the bolts holding the lower resonator assembly and pull the assembly out from underneath the vehicle.
(c) Remove the two bolts securing the diagonal fender brace that is mounted between the battery and the passenger-side fender.
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1999-2000 Honda Civic EK WHEK02 K-series Conversion Harness Install Guide
Installation
1. Begin by removing the battery, battery tray and fuse box.
2. Locate and remove the factory ECU under the passenger side dash.
3. Remove the factory engine harness from the engine bay and under the dash. There will be 2 10mm bolts under the battery tray holding the harness in place. Remove this plate/grommet to reuse with your K series engine harness.
4. Route the K series engine harness through the firewall on the passenger side utilizing the factory grommet.
5. Run the hybrid racing harness along the inside of the floor, near the firewall. You should have all of the connectors in one area.
6. Connect the green C131 from your Hybrid Racing harness back to the dash harness.
7. Connect the C302 from your Hybrid Racing harness to the connector on the K series engine harness.
8. Insert connector A and B on your K series engine harness into your K series ECU.
9. Insert the E plug (white), located on your Hybrid Racing conversion harness, into the K series ECU.
10. Locate the factory A plug that remains in the car on the EK dash harness. You have four black wires coming out by the E-Plug and they all have little labels on them. Connect the following wires. The best way to do this is the solder all of the joints, however you can use the tap and connectors included. Use the pictures and the chart as a reference.
11. Locate C101 (gray) 10pin connector located on the driver side shock tower.
12. Pull the connector through the firewall.
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1. Begin by removing the battery, battery tray and fuse box.
2. Locate and remove the factory ECU under the passenger side dash.
3. Remove the factory engine harness from the engine bay and under the dash. There will be 2 10mm bolts under the battery tray holding the harness in place. Remove this plate/grommet to reuse with your K series engine harness.
4. Route the K series engine harness through the firewall on the passenger side utilizing the factory grommet.
5. Run the hybrid racing harness along the inside of the floor, near the firewall. You should have all of the connectors in one area.
6. Connect the green C131 from your Hybrid Racing harness back to the dash harness.
7. Connect the C302 from your Hybrid Racing harness to the connector on the K series engine harness.
8. Insert connector A and B on your K series engine harness into your K series ECU.
9. Insert the E plug (white), located on your Hybrid Racing conversion harness, into the K series ECU.
10. Locate the factory A plug that remains in the car on the EK dash harness. You have four black wires coming out by the E-Plug and they all have little labels on them. Connect the following wires. The best way to do this is the solder all of the joints, however you can use the tap and connectors included. Use the pictures and the chart as a reference.
11. Locate C101 (gray) 10pin connector located on the driver side shock tower.
12. Pull the connector through the firewall.
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2006-2007 Honda Civic DX/LX/EX 1.8L Cold Air System Instructions
Read and understand these instructions BEFORE attempting to install this product.
1) Getting started
a) Make sure vehicle is parked on a level surface.
b) Set parking brake.
c) Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the radio.
d) Disconnect negative battery terminal.
e) If engine has run within the past two hours let it cool down.
2) Removing the stock air inlet system
a) Pry loose the retaining buttons on the lower splash shield.
b) Remove all retaining buttons on the fender liner around the fender well.
c) Carefully pull back the fender liner and splash shield to gain access to the fender well and stock resonator box.
d) Remove the battery from the engine bay.
e) Remove the plastic battery tray.
f) Remove the two bolts that secure the intake arm to the battery tray.
g) Slide the rubber part of the intake arm off of the airbox inlet. Remove the intake arm from the engine bay.
h) Disconnect the MAF sensor harness. Remove the harness clip from the airbox and move the harness out of the way.
i) Push back all the clips holding the filter lid, and remove the lid and the air filter from the vehicle.
j) Separate the lines from the rubber coupler. Loosen the hose clamp at the throttle body end of the rubber coupler.
k) Pull the metal breather line out of the rubber grommet on the airbox.
l) Pull the metal breather line out of the rubber hose attached to the valve cover. Then pull the rubber hose off the valve cover.
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1) Getting started
a) Make sure vehicle is parked on a level surface.
b) Set parking brake.
c) Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the radio.
d) Disconnect negative battery terminal.
e) If engine has run within the past two hours let it cool down.
2) Removing the stock air inlet system
a) Pry loose the retaining buttons on the lower splash shield.
b) Remove all retaining buttons on the fender liner around the fender well.
c) Carefully pull back the fender liner and splash shield to gain access to the fender well and stock resonator box.
d) Remove the battery from the engine bay.
e) Remove the plastic battery tray.
f) Remove the two bolts that secure the intake arm to the battery tray.
g) Slide the rubber part of the intake arm off of the airbox inlet. Remove the intake arm from the engine bay.
h) Disconnect the MAF sensor harness. Remove the harness clip from the airbox and move the harness out of the way.
i) Push back all the clips holding the filter lid, and remove the lid and the air filter from the vehicle.
j) Separate the lines from the rubber coupler. Loosen the hose clamp at the throttle body end of the rubber coupler.
k) Pull the metal breather line out of the rubber grommet on the airbox.
l) Pull the metal breather line out of the rubber hose attached to the valve cover. Then pull the rubber hose off the valve cover.
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Friday, April 9, 2010
Double-DIN in the Honda S2000 Installing
Honda’s S2000 is famous for its high revving engine, but also infamous for its low- view factory radio placement. Not only is Honda’s factory radio placed very low in the dash, but it is also only single-DIN. While single-DINs were the norm in Japanese cars years ago, today most Japanese cars are double-DIN. Ernest Ornate and Junior Ngim of Sound Innovations in Hayward, Calif., show a great way to put a double-DIN video unit higher up in the dash of a Honda S2000. Ernest notes to make sure to inform the customer that he will lose airflow to the passenger air vent due to the removal of all ductwork leading from the blower motor to the vent.
Installation:
1.Draw the dimensions of the radio’s chassis onto the dashboard using a wax pencil. Notice that the airbag was removed to allow for access to the radio’s new location. BE SURE TO DISCONNECT THE BATTERY BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO REMOVE THE AIR BAG! The airbag can be taken out by removing three 10mm bolts located underneath the knee bolster.
2.Make sure that your drawing is at least a quarter of an inch larger all the way around to allow for a double-DIN sleeve that we will be inserting later.
3.Cut four pieces of ABS plastic to the size of the radio chassis and glue them together in order to construct a double-DIN sleeve. Using instant CCA glue with accelerator, stretch grill cloth from the front of the radio opening to the fabricated ABS DIN sleeve.
4.Spread resin and lightweight chop mat over the grille cloth.
5.Cut out the double-DIN hole and tape off the edges with masking tape. The duct that used to go to the passenger’s vent was removed to allow room for the new radio’s position. Use duct tape to close off the vent outlet so warm air does not blow directly onto the radio.
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Installation:
1.Draw the dimensions of the radio’s chassis onto the dashboard using a wax pencil. Notice that the airbag was removed to allow for access to the radio’s new location. BE SURE TO DISCONNECT THE BATTERY BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO REMOVE THE AIR BAG! The airbag can be taken out by removing three 10mm bolts located underneath the knee bolster.
2.Make sure that your drawing is at least a quarter of an inch larger all the way around to allow for a double-DIN sleeve that we will be inserting later.
3.Cut four pieces of ABS plastic to the size of the radio chassis and glue them together in order to construct a double-DIN sleeve. Using instant CCA glue with accelerator, stretch grill cloth from the front of the radio opening to the fabricated ABS DIN sleeve.
4.Spread resin and lightweight chop mat over the grille cloth.
5.Cut out the double-DIN hole and tape off the edges with masking tape. The duct that used to go to the passenger’s vent was removed to allow room for the new radio’s position. Use duct tape to close off the vent outlet so warm air does not blow directly onto the radio.
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1992–1995 Honda Civic Cold Air System Installation Instructions
The AEM Cold Air System is the result of extensive development on a wide variety of cars. Each system is engineered for the particular application. The AEM Cold Air System differs from all others in several ways. We take the inlet air from outside of the engine compartment where the inlet air is considerably cooler than the hot underhood air. The cooler inlet air temperature translates to more power during the combustion process because cool air is denser than warm air. AEM has conducted extensive inlet air temperature studies and we have seen temperature reductions of up to 50 degrees by pulling air from outside of the engine compartment. The air mass flow to the engine is increased because of the increased airflow and reduced inlet temperature, which translates to more power. The AEM Cold Air Systems are 50 states Street Legal (some model and years still pending) and come with complete instructions for ease of installation.
Removing the stock air inlet system
a) Remove the stock air box assembly and attaching hardware from inside the fender well.
b) Disconnect breather hose from the air inlet tube.
c) Disconnect the water bypass hose from throttle body or the fast idle thermo valve, where equipped, located at the lower portion of the throttle body. Disconnect the opposite side of the water bypass hose, which runs to either the intake manifold or the water outlet neck. Remove the entire water bypass hose and breather hose assembly from the vehicle.
d) Loosen and remove the air inlet tube from the throttle body.
e) Jack the front of the vehicle and support using properly rated jack stands.
i) Remove the lower front splashguard.
ii) Remove the front right tire and remove the inside splashguard (inner fender liner).
f) Remove the resonator from underneath the vehicle.
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Removing the stock air inlet system
a) Remove the stock air box assembly and attaching hardware from inside the fender well.
b) Disconnect breather hose from the air inlet tube.
c) Disconnect the water bypass hose from throttle body or the fast idle thermo valve, where equipped, located at the lower portion of the throttle body. Disconnect the opposite side of the water bypass hose, which runs to either the intake manifold or the water outlet neck. Remove the entire water bypass hose and breather hose assembly from the vehicle.
d) Loosen and remove the air inlet tube from the throttle body.
e) Jack the front of the vehicle and support using properly rated jack stands.
i) Remove the lower front splashguard.
ii) Remove the front right tire and remove the inside splashguard (inner fender liner).
f) Remove the resonator from underneath the vehicle.
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2000–2003 Honda S2000 Center Grille Installation Instructions and Care guide
Step 1 – Place the grille inside the opening. The grille should conform to the center opening on the car and fit snugly. This will actually provide the support for the grille.
Step 2 - Use a pencil or magic marker to mark the holes where you want to route the zip ties. On the center grille, the cable ties will attach to the plastic OEM grille slats.
Step 3 – Route a zip tie through an opening in the grille (from the back) and then through the front of the grille via an adjacent hole. Unless you have tiny hands, you may need to attach a second zip tie to the end of the first to add length.
Step 4 - Wrap the zip ties around or thru the OEM grille slates. Now, complete the zip tie loop, go ahead and push the zip tie “tail end” thru the back of the grille and out the front. This way you will be able to pull tight from the front side. Loosely fasten the zip tie, do not tighten at this point. Repeat steps 3 & 4 for the other sides. You can add as many as you like but two cable ties should be plenty. Each cable tie has a 40 pound tensile strength rating, you grille only weighs a pound or so, don’t over do it.
Step 5 – Go back and secure each zip tie by pulling slightly on each one. Use an alternating pattern. This will ensure the grille is pulled in evenly and has a secure even fit. Do not over tighten, it is possible to damage the grille insert during this step. Clip off excess cable material.
Side Grille Installation Procedure:
Step 1 – Place the grille insert inside the opening. You may need to push the trim out a little to get the best fit. We won’t worry about fine tuning the fit until we get the side grilles attached.
Step 2 - Use a pencil or magic marker to mark the holes where you want to route the zip ties (4 places). On the side grilles we will be drilling some small holes. A 5/32” drill bit works well but you may want to go up one size if you have large hands, this will make things easier. Approximate locations are shown in the picture below.
Step 3 – Your markings should look similar to this, now let’s go ahead and drill the holes.
step 4 – We will have to go beneath the car and remove a couple of pop rivets and some screws so we can get our hand behind the panel for the side vent. The view below is from underneath, use the tire as a reference point. Go ahead and remove these fasteners and drop the plastic panel down so we can get our hand behind. (this is a typical configuration for most late model Hondas)
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Step 2 - Use a pencil or magic marker to mark the holes where you want to route the zip ties. On the center grille, the cable ties will attach to the plastic OEM grille slats.
Step 3 – Route a zip tie through an opening in the grille (from the back) and then through the front of the grille via an adjacent hole. Unless you have tiny hands, you may need to attach a second zip tie to the end of the first to add length.
Step 4 - Wrap the zip ties around or thru the OEM grille slates. Now, complete the zip tie loop, go ahead and push the zip tie “tail end” thru the back of the grille and out the front. This way you will be able to pull tight from the front side. Loosely fasten the zip tie, do not tighten at this point. Repeat steps 3 & 4 for the other sides. You can add as many as you like but two cable ties should be plenty. Each cable tie has a 40 pound tensile strength rating, you grille only weighs a pound or so, don’t over do it.
Step 5 – Go back and secure each zip tie by pulling slightly on each one. Use an alternating pattern. This will ensure the grille is pulled in evenly and has a secure even fit. Do not over tighten, it is possible to damage the grille insert during this step. Clip off excess cable material.
Side Grille Installation Procedure:
Step 1 – Place the grille insert inside the opening. You may need to push the trim out a little to get the best fit. We won’t worry about fine tuning the fit until we get the side grilles attached.
Step 2 - Use a pencil or magic marker to mark the holes where you want to route the zip ties (4 places). On the side grilles we will be drilling some small holes. A 5/32” drill bit works well but you may want to go up one size if you have large hands, this will make things easier. Approximate locations are shown in the picture below.
Step 3 – Your markings should look similar to this, now let’s go ahead and drill the holes.
step 4 – We will have to go beneath the car and remove a couple of pop rivets and some screws so we can get our hand behind the panel for the side vent. The view below is from underneath, use the tire as a reference point. Go ahead and remove these fasteners and drop the plastic panel down so we can get our hand behind. (this is a typical configuration for most late model Hondas)
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Wednesday, April 7, 2010
The Ultimate Honda Engine Swap Guide
Humankind has made a habit of one-upping the creator when it can benefit in some material sense. We figured out early on that playing match-maker to an ass and a horse produced a creature with the strength and stamina of a horse, but the nimble sure-footedness of an ass. (That would be a donkey for those of you not up on your cross-breeding techniques.) Given that as enthusiasts, we all want our cars to run like a thoroughbred and handle like, well... an ass, the notion of installing a larger engine in a lighter chassis is appealing. The same rules that apply in nature pertain to the automotive world as well: The more closely related the parent forms, the more likely they are to produce a viable hybrid. Dropping a B16A from a Japanese domestic market Civic Type R into a US-spec Civic will be a whole lot easier, cheaper and more successful than dropping an NSX engine into the same car—though this has not stopped people from trying.
Unlike many manufacturers who often use a small number of different engines for their entire vehicle line, and do so for decades (ala Chevy and the 350), Honda has produced just a few four-banger engine series, but a dizzying number of variants. Combine Japanese domestic market engine choices with the same engine designation but higher output, as well as European market Hondas, and owners have a smorgasboard of engine variants to choose from. Some engines, of course, are scarcer and more desired than others, leading to an unfortunate amount of Honda theft, though there are always engines with papers available (the only kind you want). Cars are not given the option of signing a donor card; should a Lincoln Navigator decide to back-half an Integra Type R, enthusiasts will arrive on the scene to strip the carcass of the engine faster than "1-800-SUE-4-YOU" lawyers can find whiplash victims.
Encouraged by the number of serious, performance-minded enthusiasts that comprise the Honda hybrid community, we are beginning a quest to comprehensively catalog every one of the reasonably feasible engine swaps. This quest begins in this issue, as we show the relatively easy swap of a B18B1 into a fifth-generation Civic hatchback (starting on page 136). Our engine swapping madness will not be confined to Hondas, either, as there are some very successful and well-tested hybrids with something other than H on the valve cover.
The following tables are our first stab at untangling the complex web of engines, chassis, parts and kits that comprise the brave new hybrid world. The chart above will help you decide which swap to attempt, while the table on the next page will help you find the donor engine. Look forward to more parts guides and other technical info for engine swaps in upcoming issues. The charts published in this issue can help render you a more educated buyer when selecting a engine, chassis, or transmission for your project (look for an upcoming Honda tranny guide to help better negotiate that particular quagmire)
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Unlike many manufacturers who often use a small number of different engines for their entire vehicle line, and do so for decades (ala Chevy and the 350), Honda has produced just a few four-banger engine series, but a dizzying number of variants. Combine Japanese domestic market engine choices with the same engine designation but higher output, as well as European market Hondas, and owners have a smorgasboard of engine variants to choose from. Some engines, of course, are scarcer and more desired than others, leading to an unfortunate amount of Honda theft, though there are always engines with papers available (the only kind you want). Cars are not given the option of signing a donor card; should a Lincoln Navigator decide to back-half an Integra Type R, enthusiasts will arrive on the scene to strip the carcass of the engine faster than "1-800-SUE-4-YOU" lawyers can find whiplash victims.
Encouraged by the number of serious, performance-minded enthusiasts that comprise the Honda hybrid community, we are beginning a quest to comprehensively catalog every one of the reasonably feasible engine swaps. This quest begins in this issue, as we show the relatively easy swap of a B18B1 into a fifth-generation Civic hatchback (starting on page 136). Our engine swapping madness will not be confined to Hondas, either, as there are some very successful and well-tested hybrids with something other than H on the valve cover.
The following tables are our first stab at untangling the complex web of engines, chassis, parts and kits that comprise the brave new hybrid world. The chart above will help you decide which swap to attempt, while the table on the next page will help you find the donor engine. Look forward to more parts guides and other technical info for engine swaps in upcoming issues. The charts published in this issue can help render you a more educated buyer when selecting a engine, chassis, or transmission for your project (look for an upcoming Honda tranny guide to help better negotiate that particular quagmire)
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2003-2004 Honda Accord 4-Cyl. 2.4L Short Ram Intake System Installation Instructions
Getting Started
a) Make sure vehicle is parked on a level surface.
b) Set parking brake. Install rear wheel chocks.
c) If the engine has run with in the past two hours let it cool down.
d) Jack the front of the vehicle and support using properly rated jack stands.
e) Remove the left front wheel.
Removal of the Stock Air Intake System
a) Loosen the clamp around the throttle body using
a 5.5mm socket or screwdriver. Pull the Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor out of the intake tube by loosening the spring loaded clamp.
b) Unplug the breather tube from the fitting underneath the intake manifold
c) Remove the air box mounting bolt shown in the picture.
d) Remove the other air box mounting shown in the picture.
e) Carefully remove the air box assembly from the engine bay.
f) Remove the two fasteners holding the plastic cover in front of the battery.
g) Pull upward on the plastic cover to remove the resonator box intake tube.
h) From inside the driver-side wheel well, remove the fastener shown in the picture.
i) From underneath the vehicle, remove the fasteners shown in the picture.
j) Tuck the splash guard out of the way behind the brake rotor.
k) Remove the resonator mounting bolt shown in the picture.
l) Remove the screw holding the corner of the front bumper cover.
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a) Make sure vehicle is parked on a level surface.
b) Set parking brake. Install rear wheel chocks.
c) If the engine has run with in the past two hours let it cool down.
d) Jack the front of the vehicle and support using properly rated jack stands.
e) Remove the left front wheel.
Removal of the Stock Air Intake System
a) Loosen the clamp around the throttle body using
a 5.5mm socket or screwdriver. Pull the Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor out of the intake tube by loosening the spring loaded clamp.
b) Unplug the breather tube from the fitting underneath the intake manifold
c) Remove the air box mounting bolt shown in the picture.
d) Remove the other air box mounting shown in the picture.
e) Carefully remove the air box assembly from the engine bay.
f) Remove the two fasteners holding the plastic cover in front of the battery.
g) Pull upward on the plastic cover to remove the resonator box intake tube.
h) From inside the driver-side wheel well, remove the fastener shown in the picture.
i) From underneath the vehicle, remove the fasteners shown in the picture.
j) Tuck the splash guard out of the way behind the brake rotor.
k) Remove the resonator mounting bolt shown in the picture.
l) Remove the screw holding the corner of the front bumper cover.
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Honda Insight Mk1 Grid/Mains IMA Battery Charger
Installation of the charging socket.
Ensure ignition is off and IMA battery switch under the rear cover is in the off position for at least 10 minutes prior to installation. Note the RED switch lock tab has to be removed to allow the IMA battery switch to be moved.
Remove all the IPU compartment cover star drive and 10mm bolts.
Remove the small 8mm black bolt from IMA Main Battery switch area. This is located to the right of the switch when looking in from rear of the vehicle.
Remove the right hand side aluminium plate 10mm bolts behind the rear trim, and the 2 or 3 black plastic trim clips that push into the IPU cover through the plate. Remove the IPU cover.
Check the IMA battery main terminals with a 200V DC meter to ensure no voltage is present.
Remove the nut from the rear of the supplied charging socket and drill a hole through the aluminium of the IPU compartment to suit the threaded socket. Insert the socket and replace nut. Feed the wires to the IMA battery connection points avoiding sharp edges and other wires if possible, use tie wraps, cable clips or similar to avoid chaffing and maintain neatness.
Remove the polystyrene packing from the MDM module on the left hand side.
Remove the earth wire from the Battery to MDM by removing the 10mm painted red bolt on the MDM module and the plastic cable clip securing the orange earth wire. You need to move this wire to allow access for your hand between the IMA Battery and Motor Drive Module.
Remove the Negative terminal bolt and fit the supplied ring terminal under the bolt then retighten.
Note. You do not need to remove the IMA Battery to install the charging socket.
Remove the ž” spade connector from resistor as indicated below. You need a slim hand for this, and I suggest wear a rubber glove, keeping your other hand in your pocket. Note the black plastic spade connector has a pip/button which must be pushed in to release it from the connector. A screwdriver may also be necessary to help ease it off. Push the supplied ž” terminal onto the resistor and then push the black spade connector onto the piggy back connector.
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Ensure ignition is off and IMA battery switch under the rear cover is in the off position for at least 10 minutes prior to installation. Note the RED switch lock tab has to be removed to allow the IMA battery switch to be moved.
Remove all the IPU compartment cover star drive and 10mm bolts.
Remove the small 8mm black bolt from IMA Main Battery switch area. This is located to the right of the switch when looking in from rear of the vehicle.
Remove the right hand side aluminium plate 10mm bolts behind the rear trim, and the 2 or 3 black plastic trim clips that push into the IPU cover through the plate. Remove the IPU cover.
Check the IMA battery main terminals with a 200V DC meter to ensure no voltage is present.
Remove the nut from the rear of the supplied charging socket and drill a hole through the aluminium of the IPU compartment to suit the threaded socket. Insert the socket and replace nut. Feed the wires to the IMA battery connection points avoiding sharp edges and other wires if possible, use tie wraps, cable clips or similar to avoid chaffing and maintain neatness.
Remove the polystyrene packing from the MDM module on the left hand side.
Remove the earth wire from the Battery to MDM by removing the 10mm painted red bolt on the MDM module and the plastic cable clip securing the orange earth wire. You need to move this wire to allow access for your hand between the IMA Battery and Motor Drive Module.
Remove the Negative terminal bolt and fit the supplied ring terminal under the bolt then retighten.
Note. You do not need to remove the IMA Battery to install the charging socket.
Remove the ž” spade connector from resistor as indicated below. You need a slim hand for this, and I suggest wear a rubber glove, keeping your other hand in your pocket. Note the black plastic spade connector has a pip/button which must be pushed in to release it from the connector. A screwdriver may also be necessary to help ease it off. Push the supplied ž” terminal onto the resistor and then push the black spade connector onto the piggy back connector.
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Monday, April 5, 2010
2006-up Honda Civic Si TWM Performance Shift Boot Installation Manual
Begin the installation by parking on a flat surface, as you may have to engage and disengage the hand brake and shift from gears to neutral. If you cannot do so and are obliged to install the shift boot on a slightly inclined surface, place wooden blocks in front or behind the wheels to prevent the car from moving while you’re working.
1. Pull the emergency brake up to prevent the car from moving while you work. Looking down at the shift knob, turn the jam nut beneath the shift knob clockwise using a 14 mm wrench to loosen it.
2. Remove the shift knob by rotating it counter clock-wise and remove the nut from the shifter shaft.
3. Pull up on the shifter bezel to remove it with the stock shift boot attached.
4. Remove the four torx screws on the bottom of the bezel. Pull out the shift boot and the plastic ring attached to the base of the boot.
5. Remove the staples holding the shift boot to the plastic ring. A small flat head screwdriver or needle nose pliers can be used to pry the staples out.
6. Remove the shift boot from the plastic ring.
7. Turn the shift boot inside out. With wire cutters or scissors snip the zip-tie at the top of the shift boot and discard the zip tie.
8. With the white zip-tie removed you will now be able to remove the black plastic retainer ring.
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1. Pull the emergency brake up to prevent the car from moving while you work. Looking down at the shift knob, turn the jam nut beneath the shift knob clockwise using a 14 mm wrench to loosen it.
2. Remove the shift knob by rotating it counter clock-wise and remove the nut from the shifter shaft.
3. Pull up on the shifter bezel to remove it with the stock shift boot attached.
4. Remove the four torx screws on the bottom of the bezel. Pull out the shift boot and the plastic ring attached to the base of the boot.
5. Remove the staples holding the shift boot to the plastic ring. A small flat head screwdriver or needle nose pliers can be used to pry the staples out.
6. Remove the shift boot from the plastic ring.
7. Turn the shift boot inside out. With wire cutters or scissors snip the zip-tie at the top of the shift boot and discard the zip tie.
8. With the white zip-tie removed you will now be able to remove the black plastic retainer ring.
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2007-08 Honda Fit M/T & A/T Base Injector Upgrade Installation Manual
SECTION 1: PRE-INSTALLATION PRECAUTIONS:
Step 1: Remove the negative battery cable. Before removing the battery cable, verify that you have the “anti theft” radio code. It is usually located in your owner’s manual or on the side of the glove compartment. If you cannot find the radio code, take your car to your local Honda dealer so that they can retrieve the code through the Honda computer network.
SECTION 2: INJECTOR INSTALLATION
Step 2: Remove the plastic cosmetic cover from the intake manifold.
Step 3: Remove the five 12mm headed bolts/nuts that hold the plastic upper intake manifold to the aluminum lower manifold. Be careful when these two manifolds are not bolted together. Errant bolts/nuts or debris could fall into the intake manifold and cause severe engine damage. It is recommended that you cover the lower intake runners with protective tape or a shop towel.
Step 4: Remove the gas cap and remove any residual pressure from the fuel tank. Always use safety glasses while performing this operation.
Step 5: Remove the plastic safety cover from the fuel line/fuel rail connector. Push the safety clips from each side of the fuel line and gently remove the fuel line from the fuel rail. Have a shop towel ready for any high pressure residual fuel that might spray from the fuel rail.
Step 6: Unbolt the 10mm headed bolt that holds the fuel rail security tab to the cylinder head. It is located under the throttle body.
Step 7: Remove the fuel injector wiring harness plastic cover from the metal tabs on the fuel rail. Remove the fuel injector wiring clips from the injectors.
Step 8: Remove the two 10mm flanged nuts from the top of the fuel rail mounting studs.
Step 9: Lift the fuel rail from the engine compartment.
Step 10: Remove the injector retaining clips from the injector and the fuel rail one clip at a time. Remove and reinstall one injector at a time so that you don’t forget how they are installed.
Step 11: There are metal tabs on the fuel rail that the plastic housing was clipped into. These metal tabs will make reinstalling the fuel rail with the taller RC injectors difficult. If you prefer, you can cut the tabs off the rail with a pair of “tin snips.”If you want to leave the metal tabs in place, it will require you to insert the injectors into the cylinder head first before installing the fuel rail onto the injectors, and it will be more difficult. Listed below is a general guideline to fuel injector installation with the tabs removed.
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Step 1: Remove the negative battery cable. Before removing the battery cable, verify that you have the “anti theft” radio code. It is usually located in your owner’s manual or on the side of the glove compartment. If you cannot find the radio code, take your car to your local Honda dealer so that they can retrieve the code through the Honda computer network.
SECTION 2: INJECTOR INSTALLATION
Step 2: Remove the plastic cosmetic cover from the intake manifold.
Step 3: Remove the five 12mm headed bolts/nuts that hold the plastic upper intake manifold to the aluminum lower manifold. Be careful when these two manifolds are not bolted together. Errant bolts/nuts or debris could fall into the intake manifold and cause severe engine damage. It is recommended that you cover the lower intake runners with protective tape or a shop towel.
Step 4: Remove the gas cap and remove any residual pressure from the fuel tank. Always use safety glasses while performing this operation.
Step 5: Remove the plastic safety cover from the fuel line/fuel rail connector. Push the safety clips from each side of the fuel line and gently remove the fuel line from the fuel rail. Have a shop towel ready for any high pressure residual fuel that might spray from the fuel rail.
Step 6: Unbolt the 10mm headed bolt that holds the fuel rail security tab to the cylinder head. It is located under the throttle body.
Step 7: Remove the fuel injector wiring harness plastic cover from the metal tabs on the fuel rail. Remove the fuel injector wiring clips from the injectors.
Step 8: Remove the two 10mm flanged nuts from the top of the fuel rail mounting studs.
Step 9: Lift the fuel rail from the engine compartment.
Step 10: Remove the injector retaining clips from the injector and the fuel rail one clip at a time. Remove and reinstall one injector at a time so that you don’t forget how they are installed.
Step 11: There are metal tabs on the fuel rail that the plastic housing was clipped into. These metal tabs will make reinstalling the fuel rail with the taller RC injectors difficult. If you prefer, you can cut the tabs off the rail with a pair of “tin snips.”If you want to leave the metal tabs in place, it will require you to insert the injectors into the cylinder head first before installing the fuel rail onto the injectors, and it will be more difficult. Listed below is a general guideline to fuel injector installation with the tabs removed.
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Honda Engine Conversions to Classic Minis Mt-b kit Installation Manual
We welcome you to the Honda Powered Mini World. Thank you and Congratulations for your purchase. You can be certain that you have made a wise choice with this upgrade. This kit was designed to help put you on the right track when building your ultimate Mini. With the help of this MT-B Kit, you will be driving your Super Fast Mini soon.
Mini has been made in many variations with many subtle —tweaks“ and varying build quality over its lifetime. It is impossible to account for all these, and some will even be unique to your car. Additionally, your car is likely 15-20 years old, with all that has happened to it in that time.
With all that said, your MT-B kit and these instructions are designed to try to allow for some of these differences. For others, you will have to —field fit“ or adjust as you go. We‘ll do all we can to help keep your project moving along. Please keep in mind that pictures will be of great help, so if you don‘t have a digital camera, (or always wanted one) now is a good time to get one. In fact, you should take LOTS of pictures to document your project. Your project may seem overwhelming at times, but if you take it one step at a time, in a logical sequence and take an occasional break from it, you‘ll do OK.
The purpose of this kit is to make your Honda VTEC installation easy and hassle free. We have taken the research and development headaches out of the install so that you do not have to deal with all of that. The sub-frame mounts to the car. The engine mounts to the sub-frame. And before you know it, you are ready to crank and drive your car.
We have broken the whole VTEC Mini build up into sections, from start to finish. We hope that this will be a pleasurable experience for you and we will do everything that we can to make it that. Just remember, we are available to help you 5 days a week. Just give us a call or an email.
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Mini has been made in many variations with many subtle —tweaks“ and varying build quality over its lifetime. It is impossible to account for all these, and some will even be unique to your car. Additionally, your car is likely 15-20 years old, with all that has happened to it in that time.
With all that said, your MT-B kit and these instructions are designed to try to allow for some of these differences. For others, you will have to —field fit“ or adjust as you go. We‘ll do all we can to help keep your project moving along. Please keep in mind that pictures will be of great help, so if you don‘t have a digital camera, (or always wanted one) now is a good time to get one. In fact, you should take LOTS of pictures to document your project. Your project may seem overwhelming at times, but if you take it one step at a time, in a logical sequence and take an occasional break from it, you‘ll do OK.
The purpose of this kit is to make your Honda VTEC installation easy and hassle free. We have taken the research and development headaches out of the install so that you do not have to deal with all of that. The sub-frame mounts to the car. The engine mounts to the sub-frame. And before you know it, you are ready to crank and drive your car.
We have broken the whole VTEC Mini build up into sections, from start to finish. We hope that this will be a pleasurable experience for you and we will do everything that we can to make it that. Just remember, we are available to help you 5 days a week. Just give us a call or an email.
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